Draw Length Measurement- 3 Methods and I got 3 very different numbers. WTH?

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I've been trolling AT for some time waiting for a bow for my wife to try. She's never shot. And I am not gonna sink $1000 in a new bow. One popped up that I love the specs.

But it's module specific.

Her wingspan is 63.5"

One method says divide by 2.5" Comes out to 25.2 I would be inclined to go 25" DL and manage the rest via D Loop and release aid.

Other method says subtract 15 off the wingspan and divide by 2.....24.25"

Dudley per 2014 YT says to get decent form....place the flat of your fist against the wall and measure to mouth corner. She's 27".

I thought "No Way a 5'3" woman is gonna have a 27" DL. I had her measure me. She got 27.5" I am a firm 28" DL on all my bows. So that method to me...seems close.

Any insight?
 

Jbehredt

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My wife is 5’4” and shoots very well at 26”. I’ll get her to punch the wall here in a bit and see what that gives us.
 

Trial153

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Wing span doesn’t work for me. Brings me about an inch two short. Comes in at 26.8

Dudley fist on the wall brings me to 28. 0

I shot most bows at 27.5 to 28
 

Jbehredt

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Fist on the wall she’s a 26. That said it sort of requires you to know what a natural shooting position is. You may have to coach her into correct form. Bent elbow, head straight, I can cheat mine all the way out to 32 from a real 29.5 if I treat it like a long draw competition. Wing span puts me just a hair over 30.
 

Plowboy85

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Wingspan measurements from finger tips to finger tips of any degree are prone to exaggerate the DL for folks with larger hands and VS for shorter because the riser is sitting in the palm therefore folks with longer hands have unusable lengths (on both ends of the actual draw length). While I agree with so much Dudley has taught, I don’t totally agree with this method although it is likely to provide the most reliable starting point. As mentioned care has to be exercised to have decent posture and not manipulate the shoulders or head during this technique. John also demonstrates the slight +/- In DLs from shorter to longer ATA bows which to may finalizes nicely the video you are referencing. In my opinion getting close is all that is needed to work on form and tweak it out from there. Most of us have a little flexibility in our anchor point but I feel making sure I have the tip of my nose touching the string is another contact point I am very consistent with. For me the 3 main reference points are jaw, nose, peep and a slight pull of the string in my mouth although when it is cold I cannot feel it very well. I reckon what I am saying here is get close, have someone observe at full draw as she works on posture because that will need correction likely on her and the bow and DL value will fall where it falls. I am sure you knew the final statements but thought I’d state them for others that may ponder this as well.
 

Marble

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My wife is 5'4" @27" DL.

Measuring draw length is an approximation. It can get you close by you won't know until you actually shoot that particular bow and release. If she shoots a hinge or a trigger it can change. So keep that in mind.

My best advice is to take her to a shop and have her shoot several bows. In the long run it pays to have that done. They get what they choose...

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 
OP
J
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To all those that chimed in....especially the dude who had his Mrs get measured..thank you very much

I did not watch the Dudley video to completion....I will tomorrow to see what minor tweaks can be done or remeasured.
 
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I tried all three methods with my 71" wing span:
- wingspan / 2.5 = 28.4
- wingspan -15 / 2 = 28
- fist on wall = 28.5

My draw length is about 28.5 maybe 29. So all three were consistent for me.

My observation is that the fist on the wall is probably the best if the person knows how to stand and hold their head when really shooting a bow. The other two are pretty close for anyone who's posted, so I'd say the wingspan/2.5 seems to get in a really close ballpark.
 

NY12020

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Nov 23, 2021
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I would try to find a bow with a rotating module; if you go with a draw length specific module you will need to have a very good idea of her draw length. Think about it...you will be trying to hit an exact length with about 1/4" of adjustment one way or the other. And what she starts with may change as she gets into it more. I've been shooting for many years and still fool with my DL from time to time. On older model bows; those DL modules can be hard to find depending on the bow. And usually those bows that don't have much DL adjustment don't have much draw weight adjustment either...which is a downside because her strength will surely increase the more she shoots. I'd check out something with a large range of DL and DW adjustment...like a PSE Stinger or similar from your manufacturer of choice. If she can get a shop and try some; that would be ideal.
 

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