Easton axis 5 mm HIT

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There is a huge difference using the ironwill style field point on ease of removal of arrows from dense foam targets. Night and day in a rhinehart with that bulbous fieldpoint. pulls right out. the iron will collar doesn't catch as much on my bag target as some aluminum footers I tried in the past. once again may be the design of the fat field point.....
 

Marble

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Correct me if I’m wrong, but the BAR is only for protecting the cut end of the shaft from Broadhead blades that would normally rest against the end of a traditional insert right? Ie. if your shooting a Rage you should use them but not necessary for a Montech?
It actually helps strengthing and ensures alignment. Sometimes when guys chamfer the ends, they get off a little bit from being square, the BAR helps with the fixing the small variable. It also helps with strengthening the end.

I've been using the Axis for I think 4 years. They are great and easy to reflect and very tough.
 

Brendan

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Correct me if I’m wrong, but the BAR is only for protecting the cut end of the shaft from Broadhead blades that would normally rest against the end of a traditional insert right? Ie. if your shooting a Rage you should use them but not necessary for a Montech?

The BAR will add some amount of strength to the front of the shaft, keeping it from mushrooming on a hard hit (Not to the extent a longer collar will, but it does.) It also keeps there from being a flat ridge between broadhead and shaft where a broadhead has a base with a bigger diameter than the shaft. Helps when you're broadhead tuning / testing and need to keep pulling them out of targets.
 

Beendare

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I’ve been running the axis 5 mm shafts since they came out 30 years ago. I’ve done them with collars and without and I don’t waste my time with the colors anymore.

I can tell you milling the ends of these axis on a straightener makes a huge difference in strength broadhead alignment and how they hold up.

Running them straight off of the saw is a bad idea.I’ve got a magnified photo of them both ways floating around here somewhere. The difference is remarkable.

________
 

5MilesBack

"DADDY"
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Its definitely possible to remove the insert using the drill bit method when you used the Easton 2 part epoxy.

Sometimes it takes only a few swings, other times A LOT more swings, but they can be removed if you keep at it.

I hit the back end of an arrow one time and finally decided to try this drill bit method just to see how well it worked since the arrow was ruined anyway. I shoot a 30" arrow so lots of swing momentum. I swung that arrow for 15 minutes and the HIT didn't budge even a millimeter. But it did mushroom the back end of the HIT and eventually there was a raised area at that spot in the carbon shaft.

Like everything else, I guess it depends on how well they were put in to start with. Luckily I want my inserts to stay exactly where I put them.
 

Bill V

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I think a .204" ID arrow like the Axis with our Impact Collar is hard to beat for durability and alignment.
Iron Will Reinforced HIT System:
reinforced_hit.jpg
 

307

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I hit the back end of an arrow one time and finally decided to try this drill bit method just to see how well it worked since the arrow was ruined anyway. I shoot a 30" arrow so lots of swing momentum. I swung that arrow for 15 minutes and the HIT didn't budge even a millimeter. But it did mushroom the back end of the HIT and eventually there was a raised area at that spot in the carbon shaft.

Like everything else, I guess it depends on how well they were put in to start with. Luckily I want my inserts to stay exactly where I put them.

The exception to EVERY SINGLE THING...
 

5MilesBack

"DADDY"
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Yep, everything has an exception. Of course the reverse is usually true as well.......one could claim that the HIT's never come out with a drill bit, but like everything in life......there's always an exception.
 

Elkhntr08

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I’ll second what Beendare said, you have to square the end of your shafts. This will provide complete contact the whole diameter of the shaft to the broadhead.
Been shooting 5mm Axis and FMJ arrows for years now and never had an issue. Follow the instructions. I do stand mine vertical on the end to cure. Don’t want the epoxy to slump to one side or the other.
 

TX_Diver

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This is a good point here. Chamfer the arrow using the easton chamfer stone, install to the correct depth using the easton insertion tool and 2 part epoxy, and let dry horizontal for 24 hours.

I use the Iron Will Collars for insurance and so I have the option of running either 100 or 125 grain heads, can't say I've ever damaged an Axis without them though.

What's the benefit of the chamfer on the arrows?
 

Beendare

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What's the benefit of the chamfer on the arrows?
Depends on your points and BH's. If you have a BH with a small chamfer....you have to chamfer the shaft accordingly otherwise the BH doesn't seat right and that chamfer of you BH acts like a wedge on the end of the shaft- not good.

I have some BH's that have a flat base with no chamfer....thus the flat works good with these as there is more surface area without the chamfer.

______
 
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TX_Diver

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Depends on your points and BH's. If you have a BH with a small chamfer....you have to chamfer the shaft accordingly otherwise the BH doesn't seat right and that chamfer of you BH acts like a wedge on the end of the shaft- not good.

______

Interesting. I skipped the chamfer but will try that on the next batch I do.
 

Lytro

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I built a dozen 5mm FMJ 300’s last year with 50gr brass HITs. I broke a couple arrows on rocks shooting 3D that basically exploded on impact.

I recently build another dozen and added IW impact collars to them. I’ve only had one miss like that so far, but the arrow survived and still spins true. Small sample size, but the impact collars seem promising so far.
 

Lytro

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Correct me if I’m wrong, but the BAR is only for protecting the cut end of the shaft from Broadhead blades that would normally rest against the end of a traditional insert right? Ie. if your shooting a Rage you should use them but not necessary for a Montech?
Broadhead Adapter Ring - From my understanding they’re designed to create a more streamlined fit from the Broadhead to the shaft of the arrow. The base of a Broadhead is usually a little wider than a 5mm shaft.
 
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Is everyone using the Easton tool to set the inserts? I don’t like how deep it sets so all heads/points I’ve checked only half of the threads are engaged. I could be overthinking but with a brass/aluminum insert, the more threads used the less likely it will be to have a head mushroom the shaft on a hard hit
 

Lytro

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Is everyone using the Easton tool to set the inserts? I don’t like how deep it sets so all heads/points I’ve checked only half of the threads are engaged. I could be overthinking but with a brass/aluminum insert, the more threads used the less likely it will be to have a head mushroom the shaft on a hard hit
I use it and the HIT being so deep in the arrow shaft is one of the reasons I started using impact collars. I have also noticed with Exodus broadheads that they don’t even reach the threads if you try using a BAR with them.
 

Gorp2007

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Interesting. I skipped the chamfer but will try that on the next batch I do.

I've found that if I take a small piece of sandpaper I can make a little cone that helps take off some of the inner lip once I square the arrow and that really improves how well my field tips seat.
 

DB29

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I use this to set my inserts:


You can easily heat and remove the inserts.
 

Joe G

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Can anyone recommend a good 25 grain insert. I am building a eastern axis 300 I want to be around 480 grain and the hit insert only goes down to 50 grain? 5mm
 

Trial153

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Can anyone recommend a good 25 grain insert. I am building a eastern axis 300 I want to be around 480 grain and the hit insert only goes down to 50 grain? 5mm

You can use the aluminum hits they are like 15 grains
 
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