Eberlestock F1 (tall) mainframe build-out

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I finally have my F1 mainframe modded how I want it. (aka, how Eberlestock SHOULD build them. LOL :D)

I cut and hinged the load shelf and found a clever way to support it using the existing straps and a short length of carbon arrow that fits through the Molle lazer cut holes. Now I can lay back against my pack when I need to, but still deploy the load shelf when it's needed.

Then I added two batwings.

Then I added a lid. To do this, I cut and moved a buckle from the lid to the top of the frame. I also used a couple plastic clips I had laying around to attach the Molle webbing under the lid to the two string loops that were already at the top of the frame. Finally, I cut and re-attached the buckles from the lid to the batwings so I can cinch the lid down. The whole lid is easily removed in just a few seconds if I don't want it.

So here is the pack going from full "hike in camp" mode (33 lbs. loaded, with 2L of water in the bladder inside the lid), then I drop the camp (bag, tent, pillow and pad are in the dry bag), pull the lid (2 days food, extra items and 2L water inside the lid), and put the batwings into day pack mode (15 lbs. total with everything I need for a day hunt).

This thing is night and day better than my Dragonfly for hauling in camp.

The great thing about adding the lid is I can leave all my food in the lid and string it up in a tree away from camp if I'm in bear country. I can also stuff things under the lid like my hunting jacket, sitting pad, etc. and the two straps will secure them.

Only thing I plan to add is a lightweight pouch for my hydration bladder in case I don't want to carry the whole lid in day pack mode. But most likely the lid will stay put. It's just too handy to have there for storage and to cover and cinch things down.

Hope that helps someone who is considering an F1 frame. I think this is a brilliant system and the Eberlestock waist belt and shoulder straps are still the most comfortable of any I've ever used.
 

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Newtosavage
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Thanks. I thought and thought about how to attach those straps to the cutouts. Couldn't figure anything out that would be easily adjustable and then it hit me - Just use a piece of arrow shaft with some electrical tape on each end to keep it from sliding out, and bingo. Not sure why I didn't think of that sooner. Load shelf folds up flat when not in use. I'm really not sure why Eberlestock didn't design it that way in the first place.
 

Elkhntr08

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I’ve been toying with the idea of getting a F1 Tall to mess with. I like your setup. I want to run a scabbard on the pack, so the buckle in the middle won’t work for mine. Could a guy run 2 buckles instead of the hooks and loops or better yet slot the lid and run the lifter straps through the slots?
Do you run the standard belt or the upgrade?
Love the hinged shelf. Picked up the Team Elk pack cheap at a banquet and that was the first thing I hated about that pack. Nice work around.
 
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Newtosavage
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I’ve been toying with the idea of getting a F1 Tall to mess with. I like your setup. I want to run a scabbard on the pack, so the buckle in the middle won’t work for mine. Could a guy run 2 buckles instead of the hooks and loops or better yet slot the lid and run the lifter straps through the slots?
Do you run the standard belt or the upgrade?
Love the hinged shelf. Picked up the Team Elk pack cheap at a banquet and that was the first thing I hated about that pack. Nice work around.
Actually, I would prefer two buckles and will probably end up that way when I get time and find the right buckles. I just used what I had on hand at the moment. Two buckles for the lid would definitely allow you to have the scabbard when you want it.

I'm running the standard belt for now. Not sure if I need the upgrade.

The hinged shelf is the bomb on this pack. Never know it's there until you need it.

Today, I added a 6 oz. mil-surp 3L hydration bag ($6 at Sportsmans Guide) that fits the lazer-cut Molle pattern on the frame. It sits perfectly between the batwings, even when zipped, and will allow me to ditch the lid for day pack use if I want to go as light as possible. What's nice about the lid is it's a great place to stuff things under that you need to get to quickly (like a coat or spotter) and will shed precip in inclement weather. But for days with good weather, I'll probably run with just the batwings and hydration bag, and put the spotter legs next to the hydration bag.

As shown, this is an extremely comfortable setup. Hardly know it's on when I'm wearing it.
 

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Newtosavage
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It looks like you had to make the load shelf a little more narrow to fit inside of the frame where you cut it? How did you do that part? A couple more pics would be great. I'm loving this.
I just bent the ends of the load shelf bar a little bit, then flexed the "U" arms inside the frame. It's snug but it works great. The main part of the load shelf is the same width as it was originally. I'll get you some more pics soon.
 
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Newtosavage
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Maiden voyage and she did great. 35 lbs. with lid and dry bag that contained all my camping gear. After setting up the tent/pad/bag/pillow, I shucked the lid and just hunted all day with the two batwings. Worked perfectly.IMG_1942.JPGIMG_1944.JPG
 
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Newtosavage
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Here she is with her first load of meat. 70 lbs. on my scale. She did great. 2.57 miles out to the truck, in the dark. Not a walk in the park, but definitely better than my Dragonfly ever was, and as good as my external frame meat hauler I've used for years. Any more weight and I would have made two trips. I know some guys can haul more, but I'm not built for that. LOL

When I dropped camp and put it into day pack mode, I literally forgot it was there. I could even duck under branches without it hanging up - which was something I was a little concerned about when I ordered the tall mainframe. Not a problem at all.

After hauling meat, I wouldn't change a thing. I have my pack now.

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b1c2r3r4

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Can you show more pictures or a diagram of how your load shelf is supported and attached to the frame. Great build.
 
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