Hey everyone
New to Rokslide, I'm really enjoying all the info on here.
Thought I'd share my rabbit hole of an arrow build I did two years ago. I want to emphasise that I'm a rookie hunter and I'm not giving any advise. My goal was to build a more accurate arrow and I just want to see if anyone else has similar experiences. I was having issues with broadhead flight and accuracy at further range. I was shooting gold tip pro hunters with the standard inserts and 100 g up front in a 3 fletch blazer vane. From a lot of bugging my bowshop and podcasting I determined:
1. A heavier arrow is better for hunting and potentially accuracy.
2. More weight up front can be good. (I dunno about efoc, I don;t even calculate my foc).
3. Having enough surface area on your fletch is important for broadhead flight.
What I found when trying to accomplish these things was that most spine charts don't allow you to build very heavy arrows. I was shooting for 500 grains, which was a big step from a 370 grain arrow. I extrapolated on the gold tip spine chart and created more columns for heavier point weights (attached below).
docs.google.com
So shooting 70 lbs at 28" I ended up in a 250 spine, which seemed too stiff and defeated the purpose of the .166 id arrows i wanted to shoot. So I ended up in a 300 spine with a four fletch in the gold tip fusion vanes. Things were dandy until broadheads started wind planing into the nether nether (Kudu point 150 g). The Goldtip hit insert ended up being the culprit. After multiple shots the insert would become misaligned, which aggravated me for all the expense that went into this. Called goldtip and a rep confirmed that this was a common problem. So I went to a easton 4mm half out and haven't looked back since. So after the initial opinions I came up with other and confirmed some priorities for accurate arrows that fly well (For me).
1. Heavy arrows with enough weight up front. Seems to really help longer distance shots, 60-100 yrds for me. Also important for penetration.
2. Sturdy inserts that stay aligned.
3. Ensuring BOTH ends of the shaft are square.
4, Enough steering in the back for whatever you choose to put up front. I don't think 3 fletch or 4 fletch matters, just how much total surface area you need for your tune.
5. Spin your arrows and cut off the wobble.
I'm getting good consistent groups at 80 with my broadheads and so far I whacked a coyote at 65 yds quartering to and it ended up dead right there. I'm happy with the results and glad I found a system I don't have to mess with, really hoping I get to try it out on a deer this year.
I'd love to hear other peoples priorities for their arrows and what they think of my expanded spine chart. My arrows are right at 500 grains, which I think is great for the deer and bear here in the sierras.
New to Rokslide, I'm really enjoying all the info on here.
Thought I'd share my rabbit hole of an arrow build I did two years ago. I want to emphasise that I'm a rookie hunter and I'm not giving any advise. My goal was to build a more accurate arrow and I just want to see if anyone else has similar experiences. I was having issues with broadhead flight and accuracy at further range. I was shooting gold tip pro hunters with the standard inserts and 100 g up front in a 3 fletch blazer vane. From a lot of bugging my bowshop and podcasting I determined:
1. A heavier arrow is better for hunting and potentially accuracy.
2. More weight up front can be good. (I dunno about efoc, I don;t even calculate my foc).
3. Having enough surface area on your fletch is important for broadhead flight.
What I found when trying to accomplish these things was that most spine charts don't allow you to build very heavy arrows. I was shooting for 500 grains, which was a big step from a 370 grain arrow. I extrapolated on the gold tip spine chart and created more columns for heavier point weights (attached below).
Gold Tip Expanded Spine Chart (Compound, more than 300 fps)
Expanded Spine Chart Point Weight,Arrow Length 100,125,150,175,200,225,250,25,26,27,28,29,30,31,32 45,40,35,30,25,20,15,600,500,500,500,400,400,400,340 50,45,40,35,30,25,20,500,500,500,400,400,400,340,340 55,50,45,40,35,30,25,500,500,400,400,400,340,340,300 60,55,50,45,40,35,30,500,400,400,400,3...
So shooting 70 lbs at 28" I ended up in a 250 spine, which seemed too stiff and defeated the purpose of the .166 id arrows i wanted to shoot. So I ended up in a 300 spine with a four fletch in the gold tip fusion vanes. Things were dandy until broadheads started wind planing into the nether nether (Kudu point 150 g). The Goldtip hit insert ended up being the culprit. After multiple shots the insert would become misaligned, which aggravated me for all the expense that went into this. Called goldtip and a rep confirmed that this was a common problem. So I went to a easton 4mm half out and haven't looked back since. So after the initial opinions I came up with other and confirmed some priorities for accurate arrows that fly well (For me).
1. Heavy arrows with enough weight up front. Seems to really help longer distance shots, 60-100 yrds for me. Also important for penetration.
2. Sturdy inserts that stay aligned.
3. Ensuring BOTH ends of the shaft are square.
4, Enough steering in the back for whatever you choose to put up front. I don't think 3 fletch or 4 fletch matters, just how much total surface area you need for your tune.
5. Spin your arrows and cut off the wobble.
I'm getting good consistent groups at 80 with my broadheads and so far I whacked a coyote at 65 yds quartering to and it ended up dead right there. I'm happy with the results and glad I found a system I don't have to mess with, really hoping I get to try it out on a deer this year.
I'd love to hear other peoples priorities for their arrows and what they think of my expanded spine chart. My arrows are right at 500 grains, which I think is great for the deer and bear here in the sierras.
