FIRST DIY String Replace any help appreciated

drose

Junior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2018
Messages
41
Location
Little Rock, AR
I really appreciate all the content that has been put out there, I have been thumbing through a lot of it in prep of replacing my strings and tuning my bow. I am in all forms of the word a novice when it comes to DIY work on bows. Although I have really wanted to dive deep into the world of archery and this is a good way to get started, hands on training works best for me.
I wanted to compose my ideal steps to upgrade and tune my bow. For my record and anyone else who might find this overview useful. Any and all feedback is welcome. Looking to do this in the upcoming week.
I built myself a draw board, shoulder high target stand, and bow vise. I’ll be using a synumn portable bow press as my press (I know its not ideal, but I’ll make it work)
This bow is going to be used for hunting mainly and maybe some 3D target shooting.

First:
Current Bow specs (I have had this bow for 4 years now, I didn’t record anything at initial purchase, never replaced the strings)

2016 PSE Premonition HD (Current specs)
62# Max DW
18# Holding DW (80% cam let off)
29.75’’ DL (Draw stops set to 29.5’’)
285 ft/sec speed
ATA: 30-7/8’’ (Factory: 30-5/8’’)
Brace Height: 6-1/4’’ (Factory: 6-1/4’’)
Peep to top axle: 8-3/4’’
Top Axle to Nock: 15.5’’
Bottom Axle to nock: 15.5’’ (I know these don’t quite add up to the ATA) rough numbers
Whisker Biscuit

Upgrades:
  • Replacement strings: Catfish Customs
  • Hamskea Versa Rest
  • Replace Cable Slide
Arrows
Beman ICS Hunters .340 spine
Carbon to Carbon Length: 29’’ (How do you figure out the length of an arrow? From the riser? Or rest?
Nock valley to insert length: 29.375’’
4 fletch max stealth vanes
Total Arrow weight: ~438 grains (will be looking to add weight once this is all over)


Good Article: https://www.gohunt.com/read/skills/what-does-it-really-mean-to-tune-your-bow#gs.6bqvov

1: Remove strings
  • Take pictures of all current positions of strings
  • Press bow
  • Carefully remove all cables and strings
2: Replace strings according to pictures
  • Replace cable slide
  • Release press
  • Record specs: ATA, Brace height,
3: Tie in D loop
  • Find decent level out to arrow, slightly nock high ~1/8’’
  • Tie Loop
4: Record Specs
  • Tighten limb bolts all the way
  • Record specs: DL, DW, Holding weight compare to factory settings
  • Adjust if needed to factory specs
5: Shoot to work in strings
  • Reduce DW to around 60#
  • Shoot 2 days worth (~ 40 shots)
6: Tie in peep sight (I’ve heard back and forth on when to do this)
7: Shoot again and make adjustments to peep
8: Paper tune with fletch
9: Check tune with Broadheads
  • Doing this instead of bareshaft, because I won’t be shooting bareshafts at any animals. Broadheads are more important to me
  • Walk back tuning
Upgrade time: Once everything checks out and is good, I’ll record the same information as above and start to remove my rest.
10: Remove Rest
  • Take pictures of arrow alignment
11: Place New Rest
12: Center Shot
  • Find it and set it (if any adjustments are needed)
13: Reset Dloop/nock points (if needed)
Repeat steps 7-9

Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

Dom
 
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drose

drose

Junior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2018
Messages
41
Location
Little Rock, AR
Just want to make sure Im on the right track? Anything yall would change or advise about before hand?
 

fatlander

Well Known Rokslider
Joined
Feb 11, 2016
Messages
1,383
Change each piece of the string set one at a time. A lot harder to mess up that way. And if your bow slips out of the press, it’s got something holding it together.

Start with the new rest. There’s no sense in tuning the bow twice.


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Rodéo

Well Known Rokslider
Joined
May 7, 2018
Messages
856
Location
Northern CA
I'm new at working on bows too but I'm planning on doing my first string and cable change this week. Like recommended above, if I were you I would put on whatever upgrades I have first (rest, sight, etc) and then change strings and tune the bow. No need to go through tuning twice when you don't have to.
 
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drose

drose

Junior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2018
Messages
41
Location
Little Rock, AR
@fatlander @rodkazempour Good point with the strings one set at a time!
My thought process with the rest, is if I can tune it with a whisker biscuit then I'll know im in the ball park since there is a lot more going on with a Hamskea. What do yall think?
 

fatlander

Well Known Rokslider
Joined
Feb 11, 2016
Messages
1,383
@fatlander @rodkazempour Good point with the strings one set at a time!
My thought process with the rest, is if I can tune it with a whisker biscuit then I'll know im in the ball park since there is a lot more going on with a Hamskea. What do yall think?

It hurts me to think of pulling apart a bow that’s already tuned just to do it again. That’s my .02.

The hamskea is very simple and easy to tune rest. Your bow should be yoke tuned anyway (for horizontal nock travel), so really all you’re looking for with the rest is setting it down the center of the riser and then set your nock height and arrow level to whatever it is right now.


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OR Archer

Well Known Rokslider
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Messages
2,883
Location
Phoenix,AZ
No where in your list did I see you adjusting your top cam lean or actually setting the cam timing. These are major steps that can’t be missed.
 
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drose

drose

Junior Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2018
Messages
41
Location
Little Rock, AR
@fatlander you make a good point! I can make that change, cut down on time wasted
@OR Archer oh shit you're right, I built a draw board for that reason exactly. I left that part out. Now cam lean I'm not too familiar with but I think that video in bullet 4 addresses how to help lean by yoke tuning. I have seen where some folks have to get shims, Im hoping I wont have to get to that point
 
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