Fletching contact

[Samdemarais]

Toelke chinook left handed, 48@28, pulling 28.75.
400 spine full length axis 5mm 200 up front, 3 four inch trad vanes in standard 3 fletch right helical f configuration, cock vane up. Shooting off elevated mono test.

The inside vane has a bunch of black wear marks on it from contact, is this an issue with trad vanes or feathers? Bow is grouping well. If I shoot cock vane out, it seems to be worse. Possibly shooting nock low? Pic is the paper tune on it. Thanks in advance.

 

[dlee56]

Ya you're not going to be able to escape it unless you're using a drop away on a compound or something. Vanes will get wear marks and feathers with get a little beat up from contacting the shelf/rest.

 

[Squints08]

I agree with the above. Just tune the cock feather to what tunes/shoots the best for you and keep your arrows consistent. Contact will happen and feathers will show wear.

 

[Arctic Hunter]

I never had a lot of issues with contact. It was minimal, if at all. I’ve always felt like a shaft that was spined correctly off the shelf, was always flexed quite a ways away from the shelf as it passed by.

That’s for shooting off the shelf. With some rests, obviously it’s a different story.

 

[baeloth]

I was having some challenges with contact as well, while agree with the others, if it is flying well and grouping well, you don't need to worry too much. I raised my nock height by an 1/8th and cleaned up most of the contact without producing nock high issues. I also find cock feather facing toward the riser clears better in a three x120 fletch.

 

[Wrench]

Your only hope is to drop to a 500 and tune it. The 400 is so stiff for that bow that it doesn't have enough paradox to wrap around the riser.

 

[baeloth]

I Respectfully disagree Wrench. full length 400 with 200 gn up front should be plenty weak for that bow. I was able to tune bareshaft 400 with 275 gn to my 48@28 poison Dart longbow. And, if they are grouping well already, I'm not sure he has a significant problem, just some fletch wear.

 

[Samdemarais]

Your only hope is to drop to a 500 and tune it. The 400 is so stiff for that bow that it doesn't have enough paradox to wrap around the riser.

I was shooting 500s. 30 “ with 225 up front and they where fly well. Dan Toelke told me to shoot the 400s if I’m drawing 28.75 with that bow.

 

[Wrench]

I do the same with my Toelkes. I shoot both 4 and 500 and the stiffer arrows certainly contact harder.

 

[Samdemarais]

I do the same with my Toelkes. I shoot both 4 and 500 and the stiffer arrows certainly contact harder.

Interesting…. I was convinced on the 500s but bare shaft was weak. Also the 3 rivers spine calculator says I should be even stiffer then I am. I was cutting 500s down to 30 “ but didn’t want to go much shorter because arrow weight was down to 478 and getting close to my hand. I will add some point weight and see how they shoot, thanks.

 

[oldgoat]

Interesting…. I was convinced on the 500s but bare shaft was weak. Also the 3 rivers spine calculator says I should be even stiffer then I am. I was cutting 500s down to 30 “ but didn’t want to go much shorter because arrow weight was down to 478 and getting close to my hand. I will add some point weight and see how they shoot, thanks.

Stop going by the spine calculators, especially with custom bows in my opinion! And don't cut a single arrow til you've tried it and maybe even tried it with broadheads! Broadhead flight is your actual benchmark for being tuned if you're a hunter!

 

[Samdemarais]

Stop going by the spine calculators, especially with custom bows in my opinion! And don't cut a single arrow til you've tried it and maybe even tried it with broadheads! Broadhead flight is your actual benchmark for being tuned if you're a hunter!

Yes definitely agree.. new to the recurve so now that I can finely shoot well and consistent just trying to dial in the optimal forgiveness

 

[oldgoat]

Yes definitely agree.. new to the recurve so now that I can finely shoot well and consistent just trying to dial in the optimal forgiveness

For info sake, save all your arrows that are of shootable length for future tuning use.

 

[Samdemarais]

Got about 100 ranging from 300-500 spine haha

 

[Wrench]

Stop going by the spine calculators, especially with custom bows in my opinion! And don't cut a single arrow til you've tried it and maybe even tried it with broadheads! Broadhead flight is your actual benchmark for being tuned if you're a hunter!

This I agree with.....especially if your shelf measurements are not factory.

Sometimes the calculator is right for me, other times its 30 plus out.

I just use a machine screw and add washers till I hit tune....then weigh and start there. I find the location of the weight makes a difference as well. A 100gr insert gives me less effect than a 100gr heavier head.... BUT only truly noticeable on those days when I am shooting well.

For the most part, if I'm within 20-25grs....it'll work as good as I can shoot 90% of the time.

 

[Samdemarais]

This I agree with.....especially if your shelf measurements are not factory.

Sometimes the calculator is right for me, other times its 30 plus out.

I just use a machine screw and add washers till I hit tune....then weigh and start there. I find the location of the weight makes a difference as well. A 100gr insert gives me less effect than a 100gr heavier head.... BUT only truly noticeable on those days when I am shooting well.

For the most part, if I'm within 20-25grs....it'll work as good as I can shoot 90% of the time.

Can you explain your Machine screw method in more detail?

 

[Wrench]

Can you explain your Machine screw method in more detail?

Take an 8-32 machine screw a couple inches long and stack washers till you tune.....then pull the screw and weigh the pile.

 

[Samdemarais]

Take an 8-32 machine screw a couple inches long and stack washers till you tune.....then pull the screw and weigh the pile.

Sooo that just sticks out the arrow and you paper tune or shoot it at a target?

 

[Wrench]

Sooo that just sticks out the arrow and you paper tune or shoot it at a target?

Correct. It's basically an adjustable blunt.

 

[inyago]

This is a great idea, thanks wrench..