Getting a deck built for the home: I have a building inspection question if this is a violation?

[def90]

Yeah, local code is going to determine a lot of things.

As for the OPs question.. how high off the ground will this deck be? No way I'm building a non-attached deck that is 15 ft off the ground and at the same time no reason to attach a deck that is 3 feet off the ground.

Always ask for referrences and if you can see previous work that the company has done in person.

 

[WV Mountaineer]

Yeah, local code is going to determine a lot of things.

As for the OPs question.. how high off the ground will this deck be? No way I'm building a non-attached deck that is 15 ft off the ground and at the same time no reason to attach a deck that is 3 feet off the ground.

Always ask for referrences and if you can see previous work that the company has done in person.

I’m curious. Can you make a deck as sturdy building it free floating as you can lagging it to the band of the house? I’m certain you probably can. But, at what increase in price?

I’ve thought this through a bunch over the years always wandering why code would allow it. And, I just can’t fathom why you’d build one free floating. So, convince me I’m missing something. I don’t know it all and, I’m always open to learn more. Teach me. Sincerely not being a wise guy.

 

[displacedtexan]

There is a better chance then average that The rock veneer or masonry work behind it, is not meant to hold the deck. The wood band board setting on the foundation block is. If it’s residential work, there is about a 100% chance the house is wood framing set on top of masonry. Ask yourself this, you ever seen a doors in a wood framed house set in the foundation?

You may need to chisel a bit of it out in order to let the band board set against the flashing you put behind the band. Or, take the screws out of the veneers rock if it’s mrock.

I’ll just say you might want to learn a little bit about construction before you question the advice from someone who already does. Think about it before you blow off mad. I’m not trying to insult you. While I’m more then aware of code that allows a free standing deck, I’ve never witnessed where that was a better option.

Thanks for trying to not insult me.

But you failed.

25 years of hands on carpentry and project management. I'm not looking for advice from anyone who thinks there is only ever one way.

I've seen seen instances where the amount of cutting, removing, and reworking far exceeds the effort to properly build a freestanding structure.

There's many parts of the country where the 100% chance of wood framing sitting on masonry would be a losing bet for you.

 

[displacedtexan]

I’m curious. Can you make a deck as sturdy building it free floating as you can lagging it to the band of the house? I’m certain you probably can. But, at what increase in price?

I’ve thought this through a bunch over the years always wandering why code would allow it. And, I just can’t fathom why you’d build one free floating. So, convince me I’m missing something. I don’t know it all and, I’m always open to learn more. Teach me. Sincerely not being a wise guy.

We've done a number free standing.

Brick veneer, house built into a hill, back door 3-5 feet above the footing. Way less work to sink proper posts below our shallow frost line than rework brick.

Historic registry buildings where we can't alter the footprint.

 

[WV Mountaineer]

Thanks for trying to not insult me.

But you failed.

25 years of hands on carpentry and project management. I'm not looking for advice from anyone who thinks there is only ever one way.

I've seen seen instances where the amount of cutting, removing, and reworking far exceeds the effort to properly build a freestanding structure.

There's many parts of the country where the 100% chance of wood framing sitting on masonry would be a losing bet for you.

I can see you did take that insulting. That’s a choice only you can make. However, I’ve asked it about three times now. Not to prove I’m right. But, to be taught that I’m not.

So, to make it a more direct question. On any home with any material be it wood, masonry, or concrete, I’d like to know of a situation where a free standing deck is a better option then one attached to the structure.


It’s a simple question. And, not meant to insult you.

 

[WV Mountaineer]

We've done a number free standing.

Brick veneer, house built into a hill, back door 3-5 feet above the footing. Way less work to sink proper posts below our shallow frost line than rework brick.

Historic registry buildings where we can't alter the footprint.

I can understand that thought on historic buildings. What I’ve never seen was a historic building or residence that didn’t already have an attached deck versus a free floating one. So, if that is the case then consider that one option I’ll keep in mind.


Let’s get to the modern world and, the op’s issue. I’m not trying to argue. But, how is that cheaper? It certainly isn’t going to be more sturdy. So, what am I missing? Sincerely.

 

[displacedtexan]

I can see you did take that insulting. That’s a choice only you can make. However, I’ve asked it about three times now. Not to prove I’m right. But, to be taught that I’m not.

So, to make it a more direct question. On any home with any material be it wood, masonry, or concrete, I’d like to know of a situation where a free standing deck is a better option then one attached to the structure.


It’s a simple question. And, not meant to insult you.

Nah, you pretty much said I didn't know construction, and should sit back and learn... You said it, but you didn't actually try.

I already listed two specific situations.

Someone listed another broad scenario.

If you won't read, that's on you.

 

[displacedtexan]

I’m not trying to argue. I see your logic. But, how is that cheaper? It certainly isn’t going to be more sturdy. So, what am I missing? Sincerely.

If price is the big consideration, that's not my customer...

But not having to remove parts of the existing structure is never cheap, and is frequently very expensive. Plus more time, and mess. Properly setting some posts is frequently less work, which is often less money.

If it can be equally sturdy, there is no downside.

 

[WV Mountaineer]

I had to edit as it appears we posted at the same time.

I’ll say this and be done. WV ain’t flat. 3-5’ is the norm. I can’t relate to it being better knowing that. I can’t relate to house built on a hill justifying it. I truly can’t relate why any of that calls for a free standing deck. And, at 10% inflation, price is becoming a very big variable.

Eitherway, with all that, Keep on keeping on.

 

[displacedtexan]

Gotcha. Keep on keeping on.

I'll keep on looking at all the factors and trying to make the best decision for each individual situation.

Saying that a code and engineer/architect approved approach won't work is an attitude that makes zero sense to me.

 

[def90]

I’m curious. Can you make a deck as sturdy building it free floating as you can lagging it to the band of the house? I’m certain you probably can. But, at what increase in price?

I’ve thought this through a bunch over the years always wandering why code would allow it. And, I just can’t fathom why you’d build one free floating. So, convince me I’m missing something. I don’t know it all and, I’m always open to learn more. Teach me. Sincerely not being a wise guy.

Yes, you can with proper bracing and so on.. it should be engineered vs a guy just sticking his thumb up and eyeballing it, which greatly increases the price over an attached deck though. A lot of this also depends on how well the contractor does their job. Bad footings on the deck supports are always an issue, less so if you have a 2ft high unattached deck than if you have a 15ft unattached deck though. Bad footings will still be an issue with an attached deck but at least it's not going to separate away from the house. In the end, there is a lot that goes in to building a proper deck than a couple posts and decking which is why many people are floored when they see how much they will cost.

 

[WV Mountaineer]

I'll keep on looking at all the factors and trying to make the best decision for each individual situation.

Saying that a code and engineer/architect approved approach won't work is an attitude that makes zero sense to me.

It seems we are posting at the same time. So, this is my last. I didn’t say it wouldn’t work. You did that when you got. defensive.

 

[Pickettpuncher]

Make sure the ledger that is attached to the house is properly flashed into the drainage plane of the house if the deck is attached. It's easy for water to get in between them, and rot over time. Every year it seems someone has a party on a deck, it collapses, and a bunch of people go to the hospital. Often it was a ledger simply nailed into the house or water intrusion that rotted around the ledger fasteners.

Southern MO where I live is admittedly a fairly wet climate, so rot happens faster here, but no matter what the climate I'd want flashing to bring water to the outside of the ledger.

My house was not done properly. Luckily it was caught in time, but the house side board is discolored bad from the moisture. I flashed when I rebuilt the deck.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Got off of Rokslide and have a local licensed engineer and inspector both come out and look at your bids. They will be able to tell you what is not only legally structural, but what else may be required for the build.

 

[cnelk]

So many variables.

Soil conditions will determine depth of piers.

Size of structure will determine supports.

Type of decking will depend on joist spacing.

Using acceptable Fasteners are also a consideration.

Hire a Structural Engineer and get it designed to your local building code(s) and submit for permitting & inspection.

If you don’t have a local AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction) a local Structural Engineer will draw a plan up that you can give to contractor(s).

That way they are all getting the same information

Bottom Line - do it right

 

[Coldtrail]

Pretty interesting conversation, I'm just a hammer swinger in the business, but where I'm at everything is flashed and attached with 1/2 lags or threaded bolts if you can access the interior to get nuts/washers on. The only ones not attached that I've seen are in mobile home parks, so it's interesting to see how things are done elsewhere where the code allows it to be modified.

Ultimately there is some science to it no matter how it's done, make sure you hire the guy that knows that, I fixed one last year built by a fly by nighter that was 14' up with a ledger attached with a dozen 3.5" deck screws and stairs so steep you had to climb them like a ladder.

 

[DenverCountryBoy]

So many variables.

Soil conditions will determine depth of piers.

Size of structure will determine supports.

Type of decking will depend on joist spacing.

Using acceptable Fasteners are also a consideration.

Hire a Structural Engineer and get it designed to your local building code(s) and submit for permitting & inspection.

If you don’t have a local AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction) a local Structural Engineer will draw a plan up that you can give to contractor(s).

That way they are all getting the same information

Bottom Line - do it right

I would say joist spacing should depend on type of decking, but other than that Brad nailed it.

OP, do this.

 

[LCsmith]

If it's attached, make sure it's flashed correctly or you will end up with this.

 

[Mojave]

Why wouldn't you attach it to the house? I am no deck pro, but have helped with a few and had my own, all attached to the house in some way.

To prevent water intrusion into the house frame

 

[Yoder]

Licensed contractor here. I build a lot of decks. A deck like you are talking about needs to be lagged to the band of your house. Yes, code in certain areas allow free standing decks. You can always just back the lags out anyways. But, whoever builds your deck needs to attach it directly to your house. With Lags. Through the bands on the deck and the house. If there are opportunities it’s to put hangers on the girders and attach them too, he needs to do that as well







The best advice I can give you is to go with someone that is licensed. And, make sure they build to code. If you ever resale and it’s not to code, the lender of interested parties is going to catch it. Then, you’ll have to fix it in order to qualify for a loan.







Any decks can be directly attached to any structure. And all that is needed to make them mobile is taking the lags out. So, there is zero reason not to attach the band of the deck, to the structure directly. Even on mobile homes. Don’t let anyone tell you differently either. As the pricing reflects, it’s a lot of money. Get it right.



Licensed contractor here. I build a lot of decks. A deck like you are talking about needs to be lagged to the band of your house. Yes, code in certain areas allow free standing decks. You can always just back the lags out anyways. But, whoever builds your deck needs to attach it directly to your house. With Lags. Through the bands on the deck and the house. If there are opportunities it’s to put hangers on the girders and attach them too, he needs to do that as well



The best advice I can give you is to go with someone that is licensed. And, make sure they build to code. If you ever resale and it’s not to code, the lender of interested parties is going to catch it. Then, you’ll have to fix it in order to qualify for a loan.



Any decks can be directly attached to any structure. And all that is needed to make them mobile is taking the lags out. So, there is zero reason not to attach the band of the deck, to the structure directly. Even on mobile homes. Don’t let anyone tell you differently either. As the pricing reflects, it’s a lot of money. Get it right.



I've bought a few houses. Had them inspected and many things weren't to code. It didn't matter. Got a mortgage and insurance no problem. My current house was a code violation nightmare.