Going to cut my arrows

[Rheron]

Hello again friends! After some success in the elk woods last year I’m back to tuning after purchasing a new riser. Here’s some stats, not sure what’s need so I’ll give it all.
Whitefeather lark riser 21”
Blackmax long recurve limbs 40#
66” overall length
400spine, 34” black Eagle vintage arrows
50gr inserts
125gr cutthroats
Drawing 31.5”

Not even sure what my draw weight is at my draw( never used a draw weight scale).
With my last riser I was tuned about as well as my form would allow, comfortable out to 30yards on elk. With my new riser I’m consistently hitting right of my aim by about 6”. From what I know I’m showing weak spine. I am willing to cut my arrows down a bit- have about 1.5” or so to play with. My question is how much should I start cutting? 1/2” to start? Is that drastic? Should I play with nock weight first? Any thoughts to get my back on track would be appreciated. Thanks guys
Ryan

 

[oldgoat]

The general rule of thumb in my opinion is .25" at a time. You could also build out your strike plate. Nock weight works too, but about the only real easily repeatable way to do it is to switch to lighted nocks and that's a pricey option. In my experience changing weight on the back of the arrow has about 4x the effect as changing the weight on the front, I think that might change depending on the length of the arrow though.

 

[WoodBow]

I agree that 1/4" at a time is the normal progression.

 

[Rheron]

Never used a lighted nock before- know nothing about them. Are they heavy enough to make the arrow a bit stiffer? Or would some sort of nock insert weight be a better option?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Never used a lighted nock before- know nothing about them. Are they heavy enough to make the arrow a bit stiffer? Or would some sort of nock insert weight be a better option?

A cheap way to experiment with nock weight is to glue a piece of steel rod inside the nock. 8-32 threaded steel rod weighs about 30 gr/in and fits nicely inside a standard sized nock. Below is a weighted nock I made using this method so I can practice with unlighted nocks that weigh the same as my lighted nocks.

 

[oldgoat]

Never used a lighted nock before- know nothing about them. Are they heavy enough to make the arrow a bit stiffer? Or would some sort of nock insert weight be a better option?

They are usually at least ten grains heavier than a standard nock which if you have my experience would be like removing 40ish grains from the front end. I'm a big fan of the Nock Out brand, they come with bushings and you can use them in multiple diameter arrows and you can lock the light out for practice. The locking collar can rattle a little if you tap on it, but I've never heard the rattle shooting them and I've also put a little string wax on them and then they don't really at all.

 

[Kentucky]

I never thought about adding weight to rear of shaft to stiffen it up…. Thanks felllas!

 

[ahlgringo]

The lighted nock trick is what I would try.
I don't hunt without them now- they make spotting exact impacts SO much easier. Can't tell you how many times either myself or a buddy has been "sure !!!" they hit somewhere only to find out it didn't quite happen that way.
The all-thread trick is sweet and would make practicing with same weight pretty ez, I am going to have to try that.
Until now I just pick up the cheap ones off Amazon and practice with those.

 

[Btaylor]

A reminder just in case...cut one arrow and test before cutting them all.

 

[oldgoat]

A reminder just in case...cut one arrow and test before cutting them all.

I thought about posting just that later when I was driving to archery range, then forgot by the time I was there I could post it

 

[Rheron]

Appreciate all the advice given here. Going to order some nocks before I make a cut up front. Be nice to actually see my shots in last light let alone correct my tuning issue.