Handyman advice

[West.mass.hunter]

I'm about to start gutting and renovating my bathroom and half bath. I'm not completely helpless but not totally confident either and don't have the $ to pay for someone else to do it. Anyways I came across the nifty(?) little gadget and am curious if it's a gimmick or if it really works? Spend the $20 to save bad cuts on tile and trim? Or save the $20? Any first hand experience here? Thanks

smartsaker

Saker Contour Gauge Profile Tool $39.99 $19.99 50% Saved YES! I WANT TO ORDER IT NOW 3h 45m 53s Selling Price Back To $39.99 After Sales End 🔒 Safe Secure Checkouts📦 Insured USA Shipping✉️ 24/7 Customer Support Saker Contour Gauge can duplicate any shape instantly. This profile gauge creates...

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[Akwoodchuck]

Might as well get it....in my experience, bath remodels usually require every tool known to man....

 

[Adam Gibbs]

I remodeled my small bathroom a couple years ago. Figured it would just be a long weekend project. I wasn't planning on going down to studs but that's where it led. Then between 547 runs to the hardware store, a broken tub from Lowe's, walls out of square and whatever else you can think of, it took me a month of working on it after work and weekends.

Only advice I can offer is if you're doing tile, buy or borrow one of the DeWalt plumb level lasers. Was a life saver doing the subway tiles that my wife just had to have in the shower.

Good luck!

 

[Tod osier]

I'm about to start gutting and renovating my bathroom and half bath. I'm not completely helpless but not totally confident either and don't have the $ to pay for someone else to do it. Anyways I came across the nifty(?) little gadget and am curious if it's a gimmick or if it really works? Spend the $20 to save bad cuts on tile and trim? Or save the $20? Any first hand experience here? Thanks

smartsaker

Saker Contour Gauge Profile Tool $39.99 $19.99 50% Saved YES! I WANT TO ORDER IT NOW 3h 45m 53s Selling Price Back To $39.99 After Sales End 🔒 Safe Secure Checkouts📦 Insured USA Shipping✉️ 24/7 Customer Support Saker Contour Gauge can duplicate any shape instantly. This profile gauge creates...

www.smartsaker.com

specific to that tool, I don’t use on much on jobs, but you can get one for about 10 bucks from Lowe’s or the despot. My Lowe’s and online has a plastic and a metal version, both 10 dollars.

 

[West.mass.hunter]

I remodeled my small bathroom a couple years ago. Figured it would just be a long weekend project. I wasn't planning on going down to studs but that's where it led. Then between 547 runs to the hardware store, a broken tub from Lowe's, walls out of square and whatever else you can think of, it took me a month of working on it after work and weekends.

Only advice I can offer is if you're doing tile, buy or borrow one of the DeWalt plumb level lasers. Was a life saver doing the subway tiles that my wife just had to have in the shower.

Good luck!

Thanks for sending chills down my spine lol. I'm starting in the half bath so that'll be my guinea pig. I plan on going down to studs in both. I'll look into the laser when I get ready to tile the shower

 

[West.mass.hunter]

specific to that tool, I don’t use on much on jobs, but you can get one for about 10 bucks from Lowe’s or the despot. My Lowe’s and online has a plastic and a metal version, both 10 dollars.

I've never seen these in the store but when I went online both Lowes and HD says they have them in stock. Thanks

 

[*zap*]

You can get a small wet tile saw and a hand nibbler or just do all the non cuts first and then rent a good tile saw and use a nibbler for odd cuts. Grout can hide lots of minor cut errors...laser level can also be rented.

 

[tanker]

I have not used that specific device but anything to transfer the profile of a cut is easier than doing it by measuring. I would get it or something similar at Lowe’s.

 

[Tod osier]

I've never seen these in the store but when I went online both Lowes and HD says they have them in stock. Thanks

With rulers usually.

 

[*zap*]

You can make a profile e-z with a piece of paper or light cardboard/felt paper.....scissor or razor knife.

 

[Squamch]

I have renovated literally 200+ bathrooms over the last several years.
Don't waste money on a contour gauge. Buy or borrow a lazer, home depot will price match and beat by 10% a competitor's price. Shop around.

To lay out a cut, lay your tile in place, if it's a gloss finish, mark it with a sharpie, if not, use a fine tipped pencil. Mark out the necessary cuts and go for it. It's not a tough learning curve.

Strip it to the studs, then use a level and a straight edge to make your walls plumb and true. Plumb each stud at the ends of the wall by sistering a stud on the side of it, or furring with strips of 1/8" ply. Use a 1/4 crown stapler to hold it in place. This allows 1/8" tolerances. That's plenty accurate.
Now use the straight edge to true up the studs between them, either by sistering or furring, whichever is easier.

Decide on finish fixtures, and install more backer than you think you will need for them.

Board with moisture guard if you're a cheapass, or concrete board/hardibacker if you want it to last. Use a waterproofing membrane like redgaurd on the seams.

I like premixed mortar, probably best for you too, since you'll likely over mix, or mix too much if you are mixing yourself.

Grout doesn't hide sins, unless you're slapping a LOT of grout around. Which you shouldn't be, cause it'll look like a dog's breakfast.

Find your local flooring supply house, not home depot, but the specialist that the pros go to. That's where to buy good grout, mastic, tools, caulking, etc.

You can do just fine with an angle grinder and a diamond blade if you're reasonably competent with tools, a table saw style tile saw is better, and one with a sliding tray like you can rent at hobo depot is best.

Buy a diamond hole saw kit for your small penetrations like the shower neck, and tub spout. It's worth it.

Use a tile edge product like schlueter, buy metal, plastic is cheap crap. You can CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY cut it on your chop saw to make nice mitered corners if need be. Don't just caulk your edges. Where it hits the ceiling, yes, caulking. Inside corners, and tile to tub joint, yes, caulking.

Use tile spacers. I like the wedged shaped ones, they're easier to cheat your lines with if you need to stack em.

Check your tub before you leave the store. I'd say 10% of the home depot tubs I see have a defect or damage. Don't buy a cheap ass tub. I've had mirolins from HD that you could damn near read a newspaper through, glazing is applied by weight in the factory, which isn't a good way to get a good, uniform coat.

Good luck, feel free to PM me with questions.

 

[3forks]

I have renovated literally 200+ bathrooms over the last several years.
Don't waste money on a contour gauge. Buy or borrow a lazer, home depot will price match and beat by 10% a competitor's price. Shop around.

To lay out a cut, lay your tile in place, if it's a gloss finish, mark it with a sharpie, if not, use a fine tipped pencil. Mark out the necessary cuts and go for it. It's not a tough learning curve.

Strip it to the studs, then use a level and a straight edge to make your walls plumb and true. Plumb each stud at the ends of the wall by sistering a stud on the side of it, or furring with strips of 1/8" ply. Use a 1/4 crown stapler to hold it in place. This allows 1/8" tolerances. That's plenty accurate.
Now use the straight edge to true up the studs between them, either by sistering or furring, whichever is easier.

Decide on finish fixtures, and install more backer than you think you will need for them.

Board with moisture guard if you're a cheapass, or concrete board/hardibacker if you want it to last. Use a waterproofing membrane like redgaurd on the seams.

I like premixed mortar, probably best for you too, since you'll likely over mix, or mix too much if you are mixing yourself.

Grout doesn't hide sins, unless you're slapping a LOT of grout around. Which you shouldn't be, cause it'll look like a dog's breakfast.

Find your local flooring supply house, not home depot, but the specialist that the pros go to. That's where to buy good grout, mastic, tools, caulking, etc.

You can do just fine with an angle grinder and a diamond blade if you're reasonably competent with tools, a table saw style tile saw is better, and one with a sliding tray like you can rent at hobo depot is best.

Buy a diamond hole saw kit for your small penetrations like the shower neck, and tub spout. It's worth it.

Use a tile edge product like schlueter, buy metal, plastic is cheap crap. You can CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY cut it on your chop saw to make nice mitered corners if need be.

Use tile spacers. I like the wedged shaped ones, they're easier to cheat your lines with if you need to stack em.

Check your tub before you leave the store. I'd say 10% of the home depot tubs I see have a defect or damage. Don't buy a cheap ass tub. I've had mirolins from HD that you could damn near read a newspaper through, glazing is applied by weight in the factory, which isn't a good way to get a good, uniform coat.

Good luck, feel free to PM me with questions.

This is good advice.

I have done enough remodeling to know this guy knows what he’s talking about.

My wife was pregnant this past fall and wanted a bathroom remodeled... Between hunting season and me being slow, she hired a guy to do the tile work based on just wanting to get it done.

The end result was underwhelming and the attention to detail was just not there. The guy wasn’t the cheapest and he had good references. My wife has now advised that she will just let me do any projects and just deal with me being slow if she never has to go through another remodel like this last one.

 

[West.mass.hunter]

I have renovated literally 200+ bathrooms over the last several years.
Don't waste money on a contour gauge. Buy or borrow a lazer, home depot will price match and beat by 10% a competitor's price. Shop around.

To lay out a cut, lay your tile in place, if it's a gloss finish, mark it with a sharpie, if not, use a fine tipped pencil. Mark out the necessary cuts and go for it. It's not a tough learning curve.

Strip it to the studs, then use a level and a straight edge to make your walls plumb and true. Plumb each stud at the ends of the wall by sistering a stud on the side of it, or furring with strips of 1/8" ply. Use a 1/4 crown stapler to hold it in place. This allows 1/8" tolerances. That's plenty accurate.
Now use the straight edge to true up the studs between them, either by sistering or furring, whichever is easier.

Decide on finish fixtures, and install more backer than you think you will need for them.

Board with moisture guard if you're a cheapass, or concrete board/hardibacker if you want it to last. Use a waterproofing membrane like redgaurd on the seams.

I like premixed mortar, probably best for you too, since you'll likely over mix, or mix too much if you are mixing yourself.

Grout doesn't hide sins, unless you're slapping a LOT of grout around. Which you shouldn't be, cause it'll look like a dog's breakfast.

Find your local flooring supply house, not home depot, but the specialist that the pros go to. That's where to buy good grout, mastic, tools, caulking, etc.

You can do just fine with an angle grinder and a diamond blade if you're reasonably competent with tools, a table saw style tile saw is better, and one with a sliding tray like you can rent at hobo depot is best.

Buy a diamond hole saw kit for your small penetrations like the shower neck, and tub spout. It's worth it.

Use a tile edge product like schlueter, buy metal, plastic is cheap crap. You can CAREFULLY AND SLOWLY cut it on your chop saw to make nice mitered corners if need be.

Use tile spacers. I like the wedged shaped ones, they're easier to cheat your lines with if you need to stack em.

Check your tub before you leave the store. I'd say 10% of the home depot tubs I see have a defect or damage. Don't buy a cheap ass tub. I've had mirolins from HD that you could damn near read a newspaper through, glazing is applied by weight in the factory, which isn't a good way to get a good, uniform coat.

Good luck, feel free to PM me with questions.

Thanks for taking the time to type that all out it's greatly appreciated. I will be rereading that as I go along.

 

[JPD350]

Good advise from others!


If you are confident enough to do this type of job then you don't need any profile tool, there are a few basic principles that you need to always remember, Square, flat, level, plumb and don't forget cleanliness, a messy tile job is not fun and it will jack with you in many ways. Always think ahead to the next step and never leave something that looks wrong, it is much easier to pull it, clean it and fix it before things dry. Also stay in control of things, use grid lines to help keep tile from running wild on you and don't try to lay more tile than you can control, sometimes you don't lay a whole wall at once. depends on tile, decos, spacers and what adhesive you are using, also remember that you often do not use the same adhesive that you used on the walls on the floor. Grout is another issue and one that if not done properly can make your tile work look like crap and make it very hard to keep clean.

You can have a beautiful bathroom if you think things through and stay in control. I will follow your thread and if I can help you in anyway I will and for free!! I've been doing this stuff for a long time.

 

[WV Mountaineer]

I do this stuff all the time. Just started a standard tile shower yesterday. So, I have a few tips to help you.

If you are putting tile on the wall, take the time and make sure that the back wall is plumb with the sidewalls, that the walls doesn't have humps, that you have plenty of spacers, that you have a 2 and 4 foot level, and understand it takes a long time to do it. So don't get discouraged when you work 8-10 hours and didn't get much done. A full shower and curb is going to take a professional 5 days if he demo's out the old tub and such. Many times longer depending on circumstances. A laser light would be very nice too but, you can get by without one if you have a 4 and 2 foot level.

Please understand, you must do the best you can to get the wall free from dips and humps. And, to get them plumb. You can do it with your backer by adding shims before installing the backer. Or, you can do it by nailing studs along the wall studs if the wall is out. Start by getting it demo'ed to the studs and get it done one way or the other. Its a good chance they will be in decent shape but, a 1/2" could show a huge difference with the right tile. And, a hump not fixed will lip the tile where they join at the grout joints. You won't believe how much a little shows once you grout tile. So, get it right from the start and fix any small differences with the amount of thin set you back butter the tile with. If doing a shower, I'd suggest to suck it up and buy a tile system like pro-tile. It is expensive but, it is worth it. If you use concrete backer instead, make sure to tape and seal it.

You don;t need a contour aider like you asked about. Just mark the tile and use a wet saw, a pull cutter, or a grinder with appropriate wheel. You just gotta do it a time or two with the tool you have. For faucets and shower head, by a drill cutting bit at your home improvement store. they aren't very uch and with that much tile, they'll pay for it in saving tile versus busting it.

This is very generalized. I wish you were close. I'd drop by and help get you on the way. Just remember to get the walls right before tiling, use your levels to keep the tile right, use a laser if you have access to one, take your time, and be sure to pay attention to make sure you are getting the lips even on the tile corners. Its not a sprint. And, you will do fine. But, you will also find out why good tile layers charge $35-$45 per square foot for labor.

 

[WV Mountaineer]

Dang, I just went back and read all of the replies. Wish I had done that before tying all that. It would have saved my 15 minutes as Squamch pretty much nailed it

 

[Rs3003]

FYI I’m a electrician and if you or anyone else has any electrical questions/problem send me a PM. I can call you or FaceTime. good luck on your project

 

[West.mass.hunter]

Thanks for all the advice and help. If I have any questions during the process I'll ask. Just have a few more thing to buy and I'll be starting the half bath