Help me pick duck ammo?

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Dec 22, 2020
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I have an old 12 gauge 870 Wingmaster (no threads for a screw-in choke) that shoots 2 3/4” shells. I’d like to jump shoot mallards on my local creek.

Whats my best choice for ammo? Price isn’t a big concern; I won’t be going through a lot of shells.

Thanks fellas. I’m not much of a duck hunter (obviously), but it seems fun to try.
 

crich

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What choke is the barrel? Lots of good options for ammo. Its important to pattern your gun. Most people think of doing it for turkey guns but not their duck guns. Same concept applies if your pattern is blown out youll have a lot harder time killing birds. Worth it to buy 3 or 4 different boxes and try them out.
 

KurtR

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Doesn’t really matter. What ever they have on the shelf will work. Just make sure not to jump the roost. The rest of the guys that are really duck hunting thank you
 
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Older gun with fixed choke, safest is bismuth.

If it's a full choke I wouldn't use steel. If it's a mod or less then no larger than number 2 and 1400 or slower.




There's a special place in hell for roost jumpers. Assuming since you are talking about a creek you are looking at walking it mid day, not as bad.
 

FLATHEAD

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I agree, get something other than steel which sucks for ducks anyway.
Multiple shots even for Coots. It just doesnt kill efficiently IMO.
Bismuth for that older 870.
 

Laramie

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Those old Wingmasters had the fixed choke written on the barrel. It will say Full, Mod, or Imp.

If your gun is Mod, or Imp, you can shoot standard steel loads just fine. As another member mentioned above, staying at or under 1400 FPS loads is recommended. Steel will kill ducks just fine as long as you are using the correct shot size and taking reasonable distance shots. For large ducks, I prefer #2 or #3 shot for jump shooting or #4 for decoying birds. I would recommend keeping shots inside of 40 yards.

If your gun is a Full choke, do as others above have recommended and use bismuth or equivalent shot. The steel shot when forced through a lead full choke can cause barrel damage and your pattern will likely be poor. If using bismuth, you can adjust your shot size to #4, #5, or #6. Even with these premium loads, I still recommend keeping shot distance reasonable at or under 50 yards.

With either option, it is still a good idea to pattern a couple different loads to see what shoots the best in your gun. There are multiple articles online regarding shotgun patterning. It would be good to do a bit of research so you understand.

Good luck!
 

KurtR

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My dad bought his wingmaster in 78 won a few state trap championships with it full choke then gave to me in 91 and I shot steel through it till i bought my first shot gun last year a franchi affinty . Steel kills just fine #2 is my go to. Banks was tired after this day.

banks goose 2.jpg
 
OP
DawnPatrol
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Thanks, everyone, for taking the time to school a newbie. Lots of good advice; obviously I have a lot to learn about waterfowl hunting—both in terms of gear and ethics/courtesy. Couple follow-ups:

The barrel is stamped “Mod.”, so it’s a modified choke.

Point well taken about the wisdom of buying a few different types and patterning them first.

Most importantly, after a little reading on the topic of roost busting, I’m pretty sure I’m not in danger of doing that (but set me straight if need be). I’m thinking of basically packing a shotgun while steelhead fishing a deep remote canyon in the Cascades. In the past, I’ve seen singes and pairs of mallards flying and using the river throughout the day as I’ve fished. It’s not like there are big congregations of ducks or a lot of still water for them to roost in. And there’s no grain fields or other water close by where other folks do a ton of duck hunting.

Probably sounds like a silly plan to real duck hunters (which is fine), but I don’t want to do something that’s rude or not legit.
 

KurtR

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Thanks, everyone, for taking the time to school a newbie. Lots of good advice; obviously I have a lot to learn about waterfowl hunting—both in terms of gear and ethics/courtesy. Couple follow-ups:

The barrel is stamped “Mod.”, so it’s a modified choke.

Point well taken about the wisdom of buying a few different types and patterning them first.

Most importantly, after a little reading on the topic of roost busting, I’m pretty sure I’m not in danger of doing that (but set me straight if need be). I’m thinking of basically packing a shotgun while steelhead fishing a deep remote canyon in the Cascades. In the past, I’ve seen singes and pairs of mallards flying and using the river throughout the day as I’ve fished. It’s not like there are big congregations of ducks or a lot of still water for them to roost in. And there’s no grain fields or other water close by where other folks do a ton of duck hunting.

Probably sounds like a silly plan to real duck hunters (which is fine), but I don’t want to do something that’s rude or not legit.
you should be good to go and good on you for asking questions and doing it the right way
 

TristanJH

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I wrote this a couple of years ago to help folks navigate this same decision. It's not a complete examination and some great alternatives like Boss Shotshells have proven themselves since then, but I think the basic tenants still apply.

Steel works, but bismuth is better. TSS is the most lethal by miles, but you don't want to bite down on any tungsten shot if you can help it and it's costly to say the least. Even reloading.

Ultimately, I think spending a little more on your shotshells is worth it. You'll shoot fewer hulls, go home with more birds per shot and leave fewer birds injured.

If I could only shoot one shell at waterfowl the rest of my life it would be anything in #5 Bismuth going about 1350 FPS
 
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