High Mileage Vehicle's

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amack26

amack26

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@Anozira the oil pressure didnt have any issues before. I think the pickup tube and screen got messed up when they reassembled the oil pan the first time. They could have caught the issue if they had addressed it the first time. but they waited.
 
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amack26

amack26

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with all the internal work that the second shop explained the total amount to get it where it needs to be is more than the cost of a new engine. It sounds like I just need to suck it up and put a new engine in the 02. Most pre 07 Suburban's in southern CA are 2 wheel drive. and have 200k+ miles
 
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with all the internal work that the second shop explained the total amount to get it where it needs to be is more than the cost of a new engine. It sounds like I just need to suck it up and put a new engine in the 02. Most pre 07 Suburban's in southern CA are 2 wheel drive. and have 200k+ miles


That's probably true. Metal in your oil could come from basically any oiled, moving component. Sucks for sure.

Would you be comfortable finding a wrecked 5.3 from a junkyard. Lots of these trucks are being "totaled" because of an accident even if there's no engine involvement. If not, then there's lots of reman and brand new 5.3 options out there.
 
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amack26

amack26

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I wouldn't mind it one bit. My only concern would be getting an engine from the junkyard and having it not run. The other thing is the emissions requirements are ridiculous here. There are a lot of hoops to jump through when I replace the engine with the state.
 

Rich M

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Might not be what you want to hear but buy a Toyota if you can swing it. We use the Tundra 4x4 4 doors as fleet vehicles and haven't had any real issues since doing that. I drive a 2012...

We used to have to swap the ford's and dodges in about 180k which is when they got expensive to keep running. Still trying to run a few Toyota into the ground...
 

Jebuwh

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I vote trying to force the shop to pay for it, as it seems by your story it is their fault.

If you are set on a different car, in the $10k and under range SUV... There is only one choice in my opinion. That is the 100 Series Landcruiser. 1998-2007 Toyota Landcruiser or Lexus LX470. Same car. They will go no problem 500k miles with proper maintenance. Needs timing belt every 90k, other than that oil changes and your basics, and it is rock solid.
 

tdhanses

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I vote trying to force the shop to pay for it, as it seems by your story it is their fault.

If you are set on a different car, in the $10k and under range SUV... There is only one choice in my opinion. That is the 100 Series Landcruiser. 1998-2007 Toyota Landcruiser or Lexus LX470. Same car. They will go no problem 500k miles with proper maintenance. Needs timing belt every 90k, other than that oil changes and your basics, and it is rock solid.

That is great advice, I’ve seen 1999’s with under 200k for under $7k.

Also might want to look at the Lexus GX470 as well, some good deals on newer models with under 150k miles.

OP you may need to travel outside of CA to get a good price but if it saves you thousands it would be worth it.
 
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R_burg

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I vote trying to force the shop to pay for it, as it seems by your story it is their fault.

If you are set on a different car, in the $10k and under range SUV... There is only one choice in my opinion. That is the 100 Series Landcruiser. 1998-2007 Toyota Landcruiser or Lexus LX470. Same car. They will go no problem 500k miles with proper maintenance. Needs timing belt every 90k, other than that oil changes and your basics, and it is rock solid.
230k on my 100 series.

Like every vehicle it needs routine maintenance, but they have very very few inherent issues.

Prices are creeping up for clean ones tho. Get em while you can.
 

fmyth

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I had my oil pan gasket changed, something wasn't put back together properly. Oil pressure was dropping when the car was at idle to 3psi and went back up to normal operating range. the engine was not overheating but it sounded terrible. The shop said it was fine. I drove it for another 2 months and took the car back insisting something was wrong. They tested the oil and there were metal shavings in the oil. So they told me I needed to get a new engine. When I asked what the cost would be they told me to look online for an engine and they would put it in. I took it to the shop my dad works at (he is a transporter, not a mechanic) and they confirmed the need for a new engine. @black dawg
I'd go to www.car-part.com and find a used engine and have it installed. The 5.3, 6.0 and 8.1 engines from 2002/2003 are known to go well over 200k. If it's a 6.0 I'd replace the oil pump before installing it.
 
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Keep the one you have and put a 6.0 in it. It will replace the 5.3 and drop right in. Everything on those two engines are the same, except internals. If you need to replace the engine anyway, do it with a 6.0.

I have an 03 Tahoe with 267,000 miles. So far this year it has been to Arizona, Colorado and will be in Nebraska in a few weeks. The thing about older vehicles with higher miles is that it pays to stay ahead of things and make sure everything is maintained. I will put a 6.0 in mine when the time comes, but this thing still runs like a top and I know what has been done to it for the last 13 years.
 

Two Roads

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We have had 3 Suburbans / Yukon XLs all 2500 series and all went 250k before selling. Current one is 2004, big block, 275k miles, Mobil 1 every 5k and finally uses 1 qt. between changes. Total reliable beast BUT is now rusting away. Love this truck but THANK YOU GOVERNMENT MOTORS, no replacement available today except soccer mom wanna be .5 ton w ground clearance of a snail for $75k. Don't want a pickup but if we go that route, it will be first Ford in my long life, much better product long term today. Times have sadly changed.
 

Wrench

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My 80 series cruiser has 240k and is as sound as any rig made. You couldn't afford to drive it in CA though. It struggles to break 12mpg. It is pretty cool to roll in a rig with factory lockers front and rear that rides like a caddilac.
 

Woodrow F Call

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I had my oil pan gasket changed, something wasn't put back together properly. Oil pressure was dropping when the car was at idle to 3psi and went back up to normal operating range. the engine was not overheating but it sounded terrible. The shop said it was fine. I drove it for another 2 months and took the car back insisting something was wrong. They tested the oil and there were metal shavings in the oil. So they told me I needed to get a new engine. When I asked what the cost would be they told me to look online for an engine and they would put it in. I took it to the shop my dad works at (he is a transporter, not a mechanic) and they confirmed the need for a new engine. @black dawg

Sounds like you need another shop.
 

Woodrow F Call

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The 5.3L is a great engine. Rebuilding it would probably be the best option if you don't buy a remanufactured replacement or new. You can do well with a used engine, but one that age is going to have miles.

The shop that did original work screwed you over. Find a good shop if you aren't going to do work yourself.

I really don't think that buying another vehicle is going to solve your problems (unless you go newer/less miles).

You really shouldn't have an issue getting 300,000 miles out of most trucks with proper maintenance and some understanding of how vehicles work.

I know plenty of people like to ride the Toyota bandwagon (heck, I drive a Taco), but I have no concerns getting similar life from a domestic truck.
 

gburk

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What mitchellbk said. The newer engines have more problems with the variable displacement than the older LS motors. Unless you drove the thing into a melting blob and blew the head gaskets I would rather replace the radiator/ water pump/ thermostat or whatever failed before I bought one of the newer trucks with 191K.

I would fix your current rig, and keep driving it while you save for something better. Just my .02.
Yeah, this. The 2002 ls engine is good for 300k unless there’s been some serious problem with overheating or lack of oil. I got 330k out of our 2001. Eventually it started burning too much oil and stepping out of line so my son and I dropped in a replacement with 100k for him to drive. Not sure I’d recommend that after having done it. But with such low mileage I’d try to fix what you have unless there’s something else you don’t like about the car.
 
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I had a new 2007 Yukon xl with the same engine. They are known to have issues with burning oil and having a sludge buildup from the cylinder deactivation. Mine started burning a quart of oil every 1000 miles at about the 36,000 mile mark. I took it into the dealership and they said that was normal which is BS. At about 110k there was build up that one day out of the blue it sounded like my engine blew up. Had it brought to my mechanic and he flushed it and it fixed it. He said that works about 10% of the time but it’s much cheaper if it works than tearing the engine apart. At 120k I traded it in on a Ram 1500. FYI the 2007-2009 years were so bad that GM doesn’t offer at least back in 2014 a replacement crate engine.


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Shrek

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I’m with putting a used 6.0 in it if the rest of the truck is good. Have the work done out of state if your dad is a transporter he can get your truck there and find a reputable mechanic to do the work. Drive it back and the Peoples Democratic Republic of California doesn’t need to know a thing.
 

mxgsfmdpx

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My 96 Tahoe with the 5.7 has 375,000 miles on it and I still drive it. Routine maintenance and replacing parts at the proper mileage intervals instead of when they fail is key on any vehicle.

My 2007 Tahoe with the 5.3 is coming up on 200,000 miles with no major issues. Again, replace parts when recommended not when they go out.
 
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Move away from California permanently with the used vehicle. Your disposable income will immediately increase, your taxes will go down, your health will improve, and your attitude will brighten. Life is too short for that place. Good luck!
 
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