How is your LR rifle at short range o_O

recurveman

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jun 24, 2019
Messages
100
shot a deer at 75 yards off hand last year and then went to MX and shot a coues deer at 813 yards with the same rifle. 6.5 X 284 Batt action with a 22" barrel that weighs in at 9.2#'s and topped with a vortex 6X24 viper LRHS scope. The only thing I would like to change is the scope. 6 power isn't bad but I would like a higher quality scope and I think you really don't need anything over 18 power for most applications. Even shooting longer distances doesn't require huge magnification. I think 3 X 18 or 3 X 15 would be good ranges for magnification.
 

TexEnv700

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Dec 29, 2018
Messages
113
Location
Texas
Same stand location a year later. Same rifle, different barrel. 19.8lbs in that photo. 6 creed, 42 yards
View attachment 163046

Two years earlier, 17lbs and change on a 20” Grendel built for long range competition. 28 yards, taken from the same stand location.

View attachment 163052

What stock on the 6 creed? I have a very similar setup in 260 but need a little higher cheek piece.
 

Varminterror

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Nov 19, 2019
Messages
115
What stock on the 6 creed? I have a very similar setup in 260 but need a little higher cheek piece.

It’s a McMillan Game Warden, with a Victor Company Universal Cheek Riser. It takes a little doing on a composite stock, I set threaded unions as anchors for new mounting screws, but it’s rock solid, snag free, still adjustable (shims), and has a sleek, factory-ish look.

I can share further details on how I pour foundations to set anchors like this for bolt on components, but a picture is worth a thousand words:

785FCC9A-C9E8-4633-9469-A69F4D2CD1CC.jpeg
 
OP
Blaw

Blaw

WKR
Joined
Oct 9, 2017
Messages
344
Location
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
T
It’s a McMillan Game Warden, with a Victor Company Universal Cheek Riser. It takes a little doing on a composite stock, I set threaded unions as anchors for new mounting screws, but it’s rock solid, snag free, still adjustable (shims), and has a sleek, factory-ish look.

I can share further details on how I pour foundations to set anchors like this for bolt on components, but a picture is worth a thousand words:

View attachment 164149
Thats slick! I have been thinking of diy'ing something similar to this as well as the manners lightweight cheek rest.
Could probably just jb weld in a couple nuts? or 1/4 threaded rod couplings?
 

Varminterror

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Nov 19, 2019
Messages
115
Could probably just jb weld in a couple nuts? or 1/4 threaded rod couplings?

You wouldn’t want to use 1/4” couplings, way too big#8-32 is the appropriate size.

Here’s what I used:

The Parts:
Victor Company Titan Universal Cheekrest = $30
Loctite clear Epoxy 0.85oz syringes x3 = $15
8-32 x 1 1/4" countersink head screws x 2 = $4
8-32 threaded union nut x 2 = $6

I've heard the threaded union nut called different things; regular nuts, union nuts, coupling nuts, rod unions, etc. But I found mine at Lowe's, and since noted them at the local Home Depot as well as Ace Hardware, so they seem to be pretty widely available - photo for reference:

coupling-nut.jpg

It takes a little doing to set the Union nuts into the stock, depending on the nature of the stock. Some polymer stocks are completely hollow, in which case I remove the buttpad, flip the stock on its back, and pour a foundation into the top by filling the top about an inch deep (just deeper than the unions). Then I drill down into the top and set the unions into that foundation. For foam filled fiberglass or carbon fiber stocks - like the Game Warden I have pictured above - I drill into the top, and use various bent tip picks to excise a half inch fore and aft of the hole by an inch deep. I pour epoxy footings into those new voids, then the next day, drill and epoxy the unions (anchors) into those footings. For wood stocks, I either use wood screws as provided in the Victor kit, or simply bore and epoxy the anchors into the wood, no footings or foundations needed.

I used to hollow out my own nylon and delrin cheek risers with a router table. Now, the Victor cheek riser is readily available, and despite costing a lot more than a block of polymer, it’s still cheap, and doesn’t cost any labor time to form and repolish. Easy peasy.
 
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