Hoyt Ventum 33 tuning issues

[Zac]

I have had enough time behind this bow by now to give a good assessment. I initially reported a bunch of false tuning due to using the wrong type of paper for tuning. I have since struggled with a left sided tear. I put an ABB Platinum on and timed it with no issues. I started out by shimming both cams to the left with the stock shims. I moved my rest from 13/16ths to 3/4 and experimented with 28.5, 28, and 27 inch 300 spine Axis shafts. Shooting 70 lbs at 29 inches. I used point weights from 125 up to 175. I also ran Beiter, Bohning, and Nocturnal nocks. I seemed to have the exact same tear regardless of the arrow build. Eventually I stacked both the bottom shims on the right side to shift the cam all the way to the left. This ended up being too dramatic of a change. I bought the Hoyt shim kit and was fairly disappointed with the offerings. I used the slightly more aggressive black shims to again move both top and bottom cams to the left. The tears didn't start to clean up until I switched from My tension activated release to my hinge. I found that pulling hard into the back wall continually gave me the left tear. I was able to intermittently get perfect holes while relaxing the release hand. I was able to get perfect holes at 6 feet without touching my face to the string at all. So far this bow has been extremely sensitive to grip. I have used the stock grip, side plates, and turf tape with fairly mixed results. Bare shafts at 20 confirm the left tear. Anyone else have any insight or suggestions on this?

 

[OR Archer]

Can you post pics or video of you shooting?

 

[ncavi8tor]

What rest are you running?

NC

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[Zac]

What rest are you running?

NC

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Hamskea Hybrid Hunter.

 

[5MilesBack]

I'd play around with your grip (position) and see what that does for each grip change.

 

[Zac]

I'd play around with your grip (position) and see what that does for each grip change.

Believe me I am. Lancaster has a 3/16 size shim kit, I wonder if that may work.

 

[Samdemarais]

Could you try shooting it with an index release if you have one, just curious how that would effect it. Are you only using the same exact arrow? Seems dumb but could try a different arrow. I’m interested to see how this plays out.

 

[5MilesBack]

Believe me I am. Lancaster has a 3/16 size shim kit, I wonder if that may work.

Are you seeing improvement or worsening with each grip change? I can move a BS from 2" left to 2" right at 20 yards just from adjusting my grip.

 

[ncavi8tor]

Are you seeing improvement or worsening with each grip change? I can move a BS from 2" left to 2" right at 20 yards just from adjusting my grip.

Yep, I can do the same thing with hand pressure. A lot of lateral flight issues are grip related.

NC

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[5MilesBack]

Yep, I can do the same thing with hand pressure. A lot of lateral flight issues are grip related.

Yep, that's why I use a grip that I can replicate in any position in most any situation for hunting without even thinking about it, and then tune to that. That has worked very well for me for hunting and 3D competitions.

 

[ncavi8tor]

Makes a lot of sense!

NC

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[Zac]

I dropped half inch of draw which seems to be helping quite a bit. I believe my rear elbow was not back far enough. When I pinch my shoulder blade tighter to my scapula I'm able to get a bullet hole at the house. I would still prefer to use 13/16 center shot for my sight housing to line up better.

 

[CodeMonkey]

I may be totally off, but isn't 29'' the "sweet spot" of the smaller draw length module? I'm wondering if you're underspined because of how much more energy the bow is producing at that "magic" draw length. I wouldn't think a 300 spine would make you underspined with those specs, but weirder things have happened.

 

[Reburn]

Things I would look at in order.
1) neutral grip
2) DL too long
3) Rest closer to the riser.

From what you describe in pinching your back your inadvertently torquing the bow. Maybe the DL is too long and causing you to kick your grip arm a little. How does the bow measure out to a bow that you shoot well DL wise? Measuring on a draw board? D-loops the same length? Im lazy I just measure grip to nock and dont much care what the actual DL is.

 

[dkime]

If you shortened 1/2” it brought your elbow back around to directly behind the arrow, if your DL runs too long you turn your draw length into the hypotenuse (instead of the adjacent leg) of what would be the perfect shooters triangle, as seen from above. When you turn the draw length into the hypotenuse, you are basically forced to torque the bow as it twists in your grip due to the elbow swing. Shorten your DLoop if you can. Return the bow to factory shim setting and tune with your DL shortened a touch. Even a 500 spine can bullet hole at the right draw length of the grip is sensitive enough.

 

[Dschwan]

I may be way off but I has some serious tuning consistency issues until I tried the Bomar nose button.

 

[Zac]

I started at 29.5 inches on the second mod. Went from 29 on the first mod from there. I had an inch long torqueless D loop that I switched out for a standard half inch D loop, which so far as I can tell has helped alot. My holes look really good in the room in my house. I'll have to get out and shoot blades, and bareshafts this weekend to verify. I can't imagine a 300 Axis at 27 inches with 150 up front and a Nocturnal in the back would be underspined. I did also run some 260 Axis through when I was having issues and it looked the same. I think this is entirely a form issue. I will also put on my nose button on when I figure out my peep heighth.

 

[dkime]

I started at 29.5 inches on the second mod. Went from 29 on the first mod from there. I had an inch long torqueless D loop that I switched out for a standard half inch D loop, which so far as I can tell has helped alot. My holes look really good in the room in my house. I'll have to get out and shoot blades, and bareshafts this weekend to verify. I can't imagine a 300 Axis at 27 inches with 150 up front and a Nocturnal in the back would be underspined. I did also run some 260 Axis through when I was having issues and it looked the same. I think this is entirely a form issue. I will also put on my nose button on when I figure out my peep heighth.

Love it when a plan comes together


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[HarryHunter]

One thing we found on mine was this has got to be one of the most sensitive torquing systems we have ever messed with. We were getting good flight and paper tears with thumb button releases and awful right tears with Hinge and Resistance Activated Releases. Multiple shooters played with it with the same general results.

Even repeated it with my hooter shooter. It does not like a lot of pressure applied to the back wall. I’m immediately posting mine for sale. If I can’t use 2/3rds of my releases I’m not keeping it. Shoots and feels great but once again Hoyts still need to work out the kinks in tuning.


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[dkime]

One thing we found on mine was this has got to be one of the most sensitive torquing systems we have ever messed with. We were getting good flight and paper tears with thumb button releases and awful right tears with Hinge and Resistance Activated Releases. Multiple shooters played with it with the same general results.

Even repeated it with my hooter shooter. It does not like a lot of pressure applied to the back wall. I’m immediately posting mine for sale. If I can’t use 2/3rds of my releases I’m not keeping it. Shoots and feels great but once again Hoyts still need to work out the kinks in tuning.


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This is typically a sign of too short of a D Loop FWIW