Hoyt Ventum 33 tuning issues

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Zac

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Thanks for the reply. I’ve got the itch for a new bow and it’s between Mathews and Hoyt. I shot a MQ1 for well over a decade and currently year 8 with my Hoyt Carbon Element.

Sorry that you had issues with yours, but am glad that you posted about it.

I’m not much of a tinkerer. Lol. I like to find what works for me and stick with it.
Mathews was definitely a breeze to tune. Their string changes were a little more challenging due to that floating yoke piece. I found that I shoot 33-35 inches much better than the 30ish ATA bows. Also the Mathews grip has always been kind of odd. I really like what they did with the roller guard this year though. Should almost totally eliminate nock travel.
 

N2TRKYS

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Mathews was definitely a breeze to tune. Their string changes were a little more challenging due to that floating yoke piece. I found that I shoot 33-35 inches much better than the 30ish ATA bows. Also the Mathews grip has always been kind of odd. I really like what they did with the roller guard this year though. Should almost totally eliminate nock travel.

I like more of a rounded grip like my Hoyt has because it feels good and causes less torque. However, there seems to be a push for the flat back grip. They feel incredibly uncomfortable and cause a ton of torque because of inconsistency in grip position.

Maybe my current Hoyt grip will fit on my new bow, if I decide to get one.
 
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Zac

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I like more of a rounded grip like my Hoyt has because it feels good and causes less torque. However, there seems to be a push for the flat back grip. They feel incredibly uncomfortable and cause a ton of torque because of inconsistency in grip position.

Maybe my current Hoyt grip will fit on my new bow, if I decide to get one.
Which bow?
 

justin davis

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I have had nothing but great results with my Hoyt ventum 33. I think it’s the best bow Hoyt has ever produced
 
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Zac

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Haven’t decided yet. Probably one of the V3s, though.
Your not going to find many rounded grips for that model. Ultraview has the BeeReal grip but it is very flat. Rattler makes some aftermarket which are same as stock Mathews.
 

N2TRKYS

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Your not going to find many rounded grips for that model. Ultraview has the BeeReal grip but it is very flat. Rattler makes some aftermarket which are same as stock Mathews.

I know. It’s a shame that nobody offers a good grip anymore.
 

N2TRKYS

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@Zac I noticed on a YouTube review of the Ventum, the guy said that he thought that Hoyt needed another year to work on the new cam system. He was referring to the amount of cam lean that it had out of the box.

He’s the only review that I’ve seen mention that. Do you feel the same way he does about Hoyt’s new cam system?

Sorry for all the questions, but I was really down to Hoyt and Mathews for my choices.
 

ncavi8tor

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@Zac I noticed on a YouTube review of the Ventum, the guy said that he thought that Hoyt needed another year to work on the new cam system. He was referring to the amount of cam lean that it had out of the box.

He’s the only review that I’ve seen mention that. Do you feel the same way he does about Hoyt’s new cam system?

Sorry for all the questions, but I was really down to Hoyt and Mathews for my choices.
I'm not Zac and I hope he responds to your question, but binary cam systems will always have cam lean. It does not affect their operation or ability to get a perfect tune with the right arrow spine. I have watched some of the YouTube reviews and several of the reviewers do not understand the mechanics of a binary system and have not done their research on the new Hoyts. Additionally, their anti-Hoyt bias is difficult to hide. I would take most of their reviews with a grain of salt.

NC

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Zac

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@Zac I noticed on a YouTube review of the Ventum, the guy said that he thought that Hoyt needed another year to work on the new cam system. He was referring to the amount of cam lean that it had out of the box.

He’s the only review that I’ve seen mention that. Do you feel the same way he does about Hoyt’s new cam system?

Sorry for all the questions, but I was really down to Hoyt and Mathews for my choices.
I always answer questions 😊. Anyhow that is a total non issue for me I don't even look at cam lean. All the cam and a half systems had it. Also Elite is now tuned by leaning the cams. The thing I have noticed about the Ventum is that it will punish you for not following through on the shot. Definitely shoots much better with a very dynamic shot.
 
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Zac

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This should be the end of this thread. Had to shim some more once I got past 20. Paper 7 yards. 30 and 40 yards with the bare shaft. The Lancaster shim kit is a life saver for sure.
 

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hydro psyche

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Hey guys,

Picked up a Ventum 30 and been reading through this thread. I'm having some similar issues tuning and wanted a quick opinion. Here's where I'm at now:

- Limbs maxed out, assuming somewhere around 62 pounds
- 28.5" draw length
- 28" carbon to carbon vap tko elite 300
- paper tune gave me a right tear, so I swapped the bottom shims from factory, moving the bottom cam right, matching the spacer configuration of the top...so both cams moved to the right with the grey shims
- center of rest is exactly 7/8" off the riser
- next run through paper gave me the holes in the image posted here. Look close to bullets holes minus that odd lower left vane
- the view of the arrow looking top down over the shelf is in the other attachment here, and looks like the arrow is angling left from string to point. I also see the left inside of my sight housing when aiming at this setup, which makes sense because all components from string to sight housing are angled to the left. this doesn't look right to me, but not sure where to go now as it is grouping and on center out to 30 yards after a french tune
- I have not done any bareshaft tuning

I've changed a couple of other things in terms of my release, etc, so perhaps I'm introducing too many variables and should've left the bow factory until I had some of those other things worked out. Any thoughts are welcome.
 

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Zac

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Hey guys,

Picked up a Ventum 30 and been reading through this thread. I'm having some similar issues tuning and wanted a quick opinion. Here's where I'm at now:

- Limbs maxed out, assuming somewhere around 62 pounds
- 28.5" draw length
- 28" carbon to carbon vap tko elite 300
- paper tune gave me a right tear, so I swapped the bottom shims from factory, moving the bottom cam right, matching the spacer configuration of the top...so both cams moved to the right with the grey shims
- center of rest is exactly 7/8" off the riser
- next run through paper gave me the holes in the image posted here. Look close to bullets holes minus that odd lower left vane
- the view of the arrow looking top down over the shelf is in the other attachment here, and looks like the arrow is angling left from string to point. I also see the left inside of my sight housing when aiming at this setup, which makes sense because all components from string to sight housing are angled to the left. this doesn't look right to me, but not sure where to go now as it is grouping and on center out to 30 yards after a french tune
- I have not done any bareshaft tuning

I've changed a couple of other things in terms of my release, etc, so perhaps I'm introducing too many variables and should've left the bow factory until I had some of those other things worked out. Any thoughts are welcome.
If you have a right tear you want to shim your cam to the right, now the left. It doesn't matter where the arrow appears to be pointing. If you are running out of sight housing on the left than your right tear persists. Shim your cams to the riser, and start at 13/16. If you overcompensated and have a left tear with those settings than you can incrementally move your rest in until you hit 3/4. If you get to 3/4 and still are tearing left then split the difference by swapping shims on either the top or bottom cam by going to the left. If you are unable to ditch the right tear I would simply up the weight in the point of the shaft by 25 grains and see what happens. However you could go down the same path I did with Lancaster's shim kit. If you end up being very close, the Hoyt black colored shims may work as well.
 

Arctic Hunter

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Hey guys,

Picked up a Ventum 30 and been reading through this thread. I'm having some similar issues tuning and wanted a quick opinion. Here's where I'm at now:

- Limbs maxed out, assuming somewhere around 62 pounds
- 28.5" draw length
- 28" carbon to carbon vap tko elite 300
- paper tune gave me a right tear, so I swapped the bottom shims from factory, moving the bottom cam right, matching the spacer configuration of the top...so both cams moved to the right with the grey shims
- center of rest is exactly 7/8" off the riser
- next run through paper gave me the holes in the image posted here. Look close to bullets holes minus that odd lower left vane
- the view of the arrow looking top down over the shelf is in the other attachment here, and looks like the arrow is angling left from string to point. I also see the left inside of my sight housing when aiming at this setup, which makes sense because all components from string to sight housing are angled to the left. this doesn't look right to me, but not sure where to go now as it is grouping and on center out to 30 yards after a french tune
- I have not done any bareshaft tuning

I've changed a couple of other things in terms of my release, etc, so perhaps I'm introducing too many variables and should've left the bow factory until I had some of those other things worked out. Any thoughts are welcome.
That’s where the guy at Hoyt told me they were getting most of them to tune. 13/16 or a little outside of that. Mine is around 3/4 though, but I was so close from the factory that I didn’t shim the cam over. If I do that, I’d wager I’d be where you are.

Bottom line is, if it groups and arrow flight is good, and broadheads are hitting, leave it alone. No reason to chase your tail. (I say that knowing full well I would tinker with it, but I enjoy that part of tuning).

it’s also possible your arrows are a little stiff for that weight and draw length.
 
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hydro psyche

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Interesting.
If you have a right tear you want to shim your cam to the right, now the left. It doesn't matter where the arrow appears to be pointing. If you are running out of sight housing on the left than your right tear persists. Shim your cams to the riser, and start at 13/16. If you overcompensated and have a left tear with those settings than you can incrementally move your rest in until you hit 3/4. If you get to 3/4 and still are tearing left then split the difference by swapping shims on either the top or bottom cam by going to the left. If you are unable to ditch the right tear I would simply up the weight in the point of the shaft by 25 grains and see what happens. However you could go down the same path I did with Lancaster's shim kit. If you end up being very close, the Hoyt black colored shims may work as well.

Yep, the bottom cam was shimmed to the right. The sight housing is actually in a good place and I can see all of it through the peep(nothing hidden by the riser...spot hogg fast eddie xl)...the best way to describe the issue is that it's almost as though the third axis has been rotated hard clockwise looking top down at the housing, and I see the inside edge of the left side of the housing when looking through the peep, where normally all I see is just the front yellow edge of the scope ring...maybe my third axis is just very off and needs adjusting? I want to fix this first as I'm thinking I might need to walkback tune again if it winds up slightly changing where my pin sits after the adjustment.

Also, I confused my current spine with old spine I was using. My current arrow is a 350 spine vap tko elite.

So besides fixing the sight housing issue, it sounds like the arrow orientation in the image I posted shouldn't be something to worry about as long as arrows are grouping with both field points and BHs. I haven't shot broadheads yet, but will in the coming weeks, so that should tell me more.
 

406unltd

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That’s where the guy at Hoyt told me they were getting most of them to tune. 13/16 or a little outside of that. Mine is around 3/4 though, but I was so close from the factory that I didn’t shim the cam over. If I do that, I’d wager I’d be where you are.

Bottom line is, if it groups and arrow flight is good, and broadheads are hitting, leave it alone. No reason to chase your tail. (I say that knowing full well I would tinker with it, but I enjoy that part of tuning).

it’s also possible your arrows are a little stiff for that weight and draw length.
Hey have you or @Zac had any issues with cable serving getting chewed up? I went thru the stock cables after a couple months. Problem area is where they wrap around by the axle. Also just went thru a set of ABB as well with the same exact problem. These cables aren’t very old either obviously. I haven’t been able to shoot my bow this year nearly as much as I normally do. Definitely worst wear I’ve ever had on threads. First pic is top cam, second of the bottom. This is what the new ABBs look like currently. They ordered a new set on warranty.
 

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Arctic Hunter

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Hey have you or @Zac had any issues with cable serving getting chewed up? I went thru the stock cables after a couple months. Problem area is where they wrap around by the axle. Also just went thru a set of ABB as well with the same exact problem. These cables aren’t very old either obviously. I haven’t been able to shoot my bow this year nearly as much as I normally do. Definitely worst wear I’ve ever had on threads. First pic is top cam, second of the bottom. This is what the new ABBs look like currently. They ordered a new set on warranty.
Yep. I’m seeing some serving desperation too. I’m on my second set of stock strings. First set looked like it got nicked with a razor blade from the factory.

I expect a little bit of that though with the factory strings. Especially with bows these days if I shim cams around and press the bow a lot.
 

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406unltd

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Ya three sets of threads in 6 months and two being aftermarket is excessive.
 

ncavi8tor

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Mine look like that too, but the serving is not cut or frayed. It's just separated around that bend. I'm gonna keep shooting it unless it gets worse or the serving breaks. I think it will be fine until the season is over. I have a new set of ABBs enroute, but they may not get here before I hit the road for elk season!

NC

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