Hunting arrow build help

TaylerW

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29.5" valley to end. 55lb. Prefer weight to kill big game..is tuning and building all trial and error?
 
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I would start with a 340 spine shaft and around 250- 300 up front. If you haven’t yet, take some time to listen to the push archery podcast and Aron Snyder on Kifarucast on how to tune a bow and an arrow. It took me a decent time to really figure out what I was looking for when tuning an arrow, and then fine tuning the bow. Tons of resources out there, and trust me you will make a couple mistakes that cost a little $$! But it’s fun!
 

Wrench

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Its going to require a bit more information. Give us the center cut, arrow choice (a big ol' fat shaft is not going to be the same as a micro) and what you're hoping for finished weight or trajectory Hope's.

I can have my #50-55 bows in 400, 500 and 55# wood.....depending on the setup.
 

Beendare

WKR
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Yeah, its trial and error. I pretty much know what will work for my setups now but here's what I would do. Personally I would shoot for a 550-650gr arrow with the FOC in the teens.

Start with the free Stu Miller calculator by plugging in your bow specs. Key to this thing is getting the info accurate. if your side plate is off...or your DL...it really skews the results.

Once your bow is entered correctly...you can play around with efferent arrow configurations- the calculator will give you fine weights, FOC and such.

Now this usually only gets you in the ballpark. I would use the spine from the chart but start with the arrow just a little bit longer....and then trim the back to tune.

You can buy single arrows or just 3 at different outfits like 3 rivers or Lancaster....and get their FP tuning kit too with FP's up to 300gr. Once you get one to tune with a certain FP, you can extrapolate that info to different combos of arrow length/tip weight/spine. You can adjust the Stu Miller with a shooting factor to get your tuned arrow right on, then use that same factor to check other arrow configs.

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Is 29.5 the shaft length? What is your draw length? That seems to be a long shaft for a compound, like a 30-31” draw which is very rare....


If I were you I would go with a 340 Easton axis 5mm with a 75 grain brass insert. Iron Will makes an nice footer/collar that fits over the shaft for another 25 gr.

Now you can shoot any 100 gr Broadhead you want. You will be just under 500 gr total. If you want to be over 500 put a 125gr tip.
 
OP
TaylerW

TaylerW

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Is 29.5 the shaft length? What is your draw length? That seems to be a long shaft for a compound, like a 30-31” draw which is very rare....


If I were you I would go with a 340 Easton axis 5mm with a 75 grain brass insert. Iron Will makes an nice footer/collar that fits over the shaft for another 25 gr.

Now you can shoot any 100 gr Broadhead you want. You will be just under 500 gr total. If you want to be over 500 put a 125gr tip.

Again, I'm totally green. Cut the shaft so I have like 2" of overhang. I shoot 28" with a compound. Compound arrow is 27.5 and sits way inside my riser.
 

Wrench

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I personally like a 400 for a start with what you're working with. You can stiffen or weaken quite a bit in both directions to get dialed in.

You may be chasing your tail for a while until your form is consistent and good. Breaking into trad with a #55 bow is gonna take a LOT of concentration unless you're an overly strong person.
 
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Again, I'm totally green. Cut the shaft so I have like 2" of overhang. I shoot 28" with a compound. Compound arrow is 27.5 and sits way inside my riser.



So this is for your recurve/longbow?

The Stu Miller spine calc is good. I would still go with an axis shaft, but would definitely go with a 400 for a trad bow. There are cheaper options though if going trad since accuracy is a different story shooting instinctive! Look at big Jim’s bow shop blems for more economical option.
 

sneaky

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Agreed^
this is a simpler version of the Stu Miller calculator.

I think the problems we hear with this calculator not being accurate is due to poor data input.

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Have they updated the bow list on that calculator? Experience has taught me what works in my setups more than that calculator has. I'm always having to choose either generic recurve or trying to find one close to the specs of what I'm shooting. I've yet to own a bow that's on his chart lol. I've used OnTarget2 a lot, especially when I had my archery shop. It's painless compared to Stu's calculator.

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sneaky

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With a 28" compound draw length, you're likely gonna be short drawing your trad bow til you build your back muscles and proper form. You can do a 400 or 500 spine shaft depending on what bow you are using, how far past center it's cut, side plate material, string material, split finger, 3 under, they all play a role. It's a rabbit hole once you start down it.

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Beendare

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Have they updated the bow list on that calculator?
No, not updated since something like 2010. So yes, a guy has to extrapolate. There is no category for my ILF Dryad riser with Uukha Vx limbs- its SUPER high performance (grin)...even the performance recurve comes a little short.

But the Stu miller is free...as is the excel sheet on 3 rivers.

______
 
OP
TaylerW

TaylerW

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Agreed. The OP never stated newbie or not.

If I was a new guy I would start with a cheap 30# bow like a samick sage...then sell it in the classifieds for 80% of what he paid when he upgrades.

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Newbie! I grabbed a widow off the classifieds a few weeks back. Came with 45 and 55lb limbs. 45 feels pretty effortless. With that, I am a bit of a gym rat. I sure heavier weight does nothing to help my form.
 

sneaky

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Draw those 45# limbs back, hold for a few seconds, then execute a clean shot. Over and over. It'll work muscles you haven't worked.

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