Hunting with a suppressor - concerns about fragility of suppressor or another thing to go wrong?

[barrister]

I'm relatively new to the suppressor game. I have one on a 30-06 and another on a 223. I'm trying to decide whether to cut and thread a new 6.5 CM.

I haven't yet hunted on a real hunt with the suppressors. I have to admit that I'm a little concerned that adding another item to the shooting system introduces another failure point or something that can be damaged while on the hunt. Since I'm new to this extra piece of metal hanging on the end of the barrel, I feel like I need to baby the suppressor. I don't want to put a wrap on the suppressor because that's even more weight on the end of the rifle and the bare suppressor already is a bit in my sight picture on low magnification.

As much as this site focuses on concerns of failures in the field from dropped scopes and other parts of the shooting system, I can't seem to find a lot about concerns of "failures" of a suppressor in the field. For example, a dropped rifle that dents/damages a suppressor. Or, just banging the suppressor against something in normal handling, it doesn't need to be a straight up drop.

Is this something I need to be concerned about? Do you feel the need to baby the suppressor to protect it or it's threaded connection to the barrel (I direct connect)?

 

[hereinaz]

You have to do something really wrong. Don’t baby it.

Also, cover it. Won’t hurt and will help.

Felt and vet wrap is cheap and no weight. Helps fight mirage for short strings.

There are lightweight easy to use covers as well.

 

[5MilesBack]

Felt and vet wrap is cheap and no weight.

Any chance of those melting to the suppressor?

 

[hereinaz]

Any chance of those melting to the suppressor?

Carbonized felt won’t melt, the tape can.

 

[voltage]

I was on a horseback hunt in which a guy was screwing his TBAC on and off the CB muzzle brake each time he got off/on the horse. After a few days, the brake came off with the can, and it was stuck in there.

 

[hereinaz]

I was on a horseback hunt in which a guy was screwing his TBAC on and off the CB muzzle brake each time he got off/on the horse. After a few days, the brake came off with the can, and it was stuck in there.

That’s user error, but at least he could still screw on with the brake?

 

[voltage]

That’s user error, but at least he could still screw on with the brake?

No idea, he was miserable to talk to.

 

[hereinaz]

No idea, he was miserable to talk to.

 

[5MilesBack]

After a few days, the brake came off with the can, and it was stuck in there.

That happened to mine the first time I put it on a rifle. Not sure how to get it out of there, but the brake is threaded for 5/8-24 so still fits on all my rifles. It's like a direct thread attachment now.

 

[hereinaz]

That happened to mine the first time I put it on a rifle. Not sure how to get it out of there, but the brake is threaded for 5/8-24 so still fits on all my rifles. It's like a direct thread attachment now.

Put loctite or rokset on the muzzle threads, screw it in until it sets, then pull it off. Might want to break carbon on it first if you have shot it a bunch since then.

 

[Shortschaf]

That happened to mine the first time I put it on a rifle. Not sure how to get it out of there, but the brake is threaded for 5/8-24 so still fits on all my rifles. It's like a direct thread attachment now.

Edit to add that @hereinaz beat me to it ha. But to reiterate:

1. Rocksett or red loctite it onto a muzzle
2. Let cure
3. Heat up the suppressor only with flame or heat gun
4. Remove suppressor with strap wrench (or pipe wrench, which I have done)

To clarify the red loctite reccomendation is just to get the brake unstuck from the can. It should be tough enough to lock the brake while removing the can. Rocksett should be used if permenantly installing a brake however


OP you will never have to worry about breaking the suppressor. Something else will break first

 

[Sccritterkiller]

You are way overthinking it..wrap it and hunt. Good Luck!

 

[barrister]

You are way overthinking it..wrap it and hunt. Good Luck!

I’ve definitely been accused of being a thinker before. I suppose I’m on the right website for thinking about details on hunting topics. Given my impressions that the suppressor seems more vulnerable than just a bare barrel, I was surprised I couldn’t find more discussions on the topic. The dropping of scopes for failure has a big following and I’ve seen the freezing of actions as another example of questioning tolerances. I haven’t seen anything about dropping a rifle with the suppressor hitting the ground first or banging the suppressor against the wall a bit to see how things function after.

 

[Turkeygetpwnd38]

I’ve definitely been accused of being a thinker before. I suppose I’m on the right website for thinking about details on hunting topics. Given my impressions that the suppressor seems more vulnerable than just a bare barrel, I was surprised I couldn’t find more discussions on the topic. The dropping of scopes for failure has a big following and I’ve seen the freezing of actions as another example of questioning tolerances. I haven’t seen anything about dropping a rifle with the suppressor hitting the ground first or banging the suppressor against the wall a bit to see how things function after.

I’ve dropped mine plenty and never had an issue. I don’t have mine wrapped either.

 

[Sccritterkiller]

I’ve definitely been accused of being a thinker before. I suppose I’m on the right website for thinking about details on hunting topics. Given my impressions that the suppressor seems more vulnerable than just a bare barrel, I was surprised I couldn’t find more discussions on the topic. The dropping of scopes for failure has a big following and I’ve seen the freezing of actions as another example of questioning tolerances. I haven’t seen anything about dropping a rifle with the suppressor hitting the ground first or banging the suppressor against the wall a bit to see how things function after.

I have put mine thru its paces last 4 seasons, one of reasons I went titanium can. No issues...I tape the end to keep the elements out and keep a wrap on it...weigh it periodically..once it gains a couple ozs clean it...Its a metal tube...not much different from the barrel so I treat it about the same..

 

[thinhorn_AK]

That happened to mine the first time I put it on a rifle. Not sure how to get it out of there, but the brake is threaded for 5/8-24 so still fits on all my rifles. It's like a direct thread attachment now.

That’s literally all the TBAC direct thread system is….they just roksett a brake in the can.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I was on a horseback hunt in which a guy was screwing his TBAC on and off the CB muzzle brake each time he got off/on the horse. After a few days, the brake came off with the can, and it was stuck in there.

So it broke and became a standard TBAC direct thread silencer. While annoying for somebody who is using it on different rifles, that wouldn’t have much impact on a hunt.

 

[Forestryguy]

You are overthinking it. Many of them made it through 20 years of combat and function fine with no major issues. They are not babied either.

 

[Southern Lights]

In New Zealand suppressors can be bought over the counter and are very common. This is what I've learned shooting and seeing them shot for years hunting:

- I avoid quick release systems unless you can be sure you always put the suppressor on so it locks the same direction each time. On A-Tec QR systems for instance the suppressor needs about 1/3rd twist on and off. But if you put it on one direction, then another time it's another way up, then you can have inaccuracy issues. Put a witness mark on the suppressor and make sure it's always that direction when you use the QR. I have an A-tec and I actually had the QR system bonded into the thing so i just thread it on normally when I use it and keep it on.

- I avoid wraps. In my own testing they can throw off shots if the wrap seam, etc. is not aligned the same each time. Also they get caught on brush, collect water, etc. All these things can affect a shot. I don't shoot enough hunting to worry about the slight anti-mirage they give.

- You should check and make sure it's screwed on when you are walking about. I've developed a habit when I hunt I will make sure it's really threaded periodically. I have had them come a little loose and this could cause problems.

- I keep the suppressor on the entire hunt. I take it off when I get back when in the safe.

- The lighter the suppressor the more fragile the internals are. High rates of fire can flame cut baffles, etc. If you are pounding out a lot of rounds, find out what the internals are and make sure it can take the abuse.

- I've never seen/heard of a suppressor hurt on a hunt from banging around. Usually if it's a baffle strike it was lose or poorly designed and the internals blew out.

Benefits of suppressors

- Save your hearing. You should still wear hearing protection with suppressors, but if you have to make a quick shot you are way better off with one on.

- Animals have harder time finding the shot location. If you miss or make a bad hit, you have a higher chance of getting off a second shot cleanly as the animal is looking around trying to figure out what happened.

- About 1/3rd less recoil without using an ear splitting brake.

I don't hunt without a suppressor now. Well worth the weight.

 

[Patrickjr]

I agree with much of what @Southern Lights said above.

Cans are another point of failure whether we like it or not. You do need to make sure it's tight or you risk a baffle strike. My cans get loose (barely) during range days, rarely when I'm out hunting but it always good to make sure.

I don't really baby my cans but they normally have a suppressor cover or a solo hunter rifle cover on when hunting. I am harder on my Huxwrx Ventum than i am on my Ultra 7. Never thought of someone denting a can but i guess it could happen haha. Mirage is a real thing here in AZ and it doesnt take many shots to heat up titanium, the cover helps a ton

Some guys will take a light profile barrel and get it threaded to accept a suppressor, leaving barely any steel for the suppressor to be supported by and essentially zero shoulder. Adding the suppressor (a 4-8" lever) to a barrel like that is asking for issues, especially if you're gonna be tough on your gear

I am happy with TBAC CB system. Its on/off pretty quick, uses a taper and i don't risk messing up my 5/8x24 threads on the barrel with the on/off all the time. Be wary other other QD options.

I Built my 7prc with the intent to use the Ultra 7 on it, went with a 22" carbon wrapped sendero contour so it can support a can without any problem and still handle well. While its an awesome rifle, my only wish is that i could have a folding stock of some kind, to reduce how much the can sticks up when hiking but then you're adding another failure point to the system