I Just got a 300 WM and looking for ideas!!!

[JGBowman]

First off I want to elaborate how novice I am about shooting/hunting at long distances. I would estimate that 80% of the days I hunt are with a bow, 15% are with a shotgun, and 5% are with a rifle. When I rifle hunt in Pennsylvania most of the shots are sub 100 yards. However, I want start getting more into long rang hunting/shooting with a rifle.

I wanted to set up an all-around long-range hunting rifle for big game. I was telling my father-in-law I want a 300 WM with a stainless steel barrel and synthetic stock. He walked me to the basement, opened the gun safe, and handed me Ruger M77 Mark II with everything I wanted and said “It’s all yours”.

I want to set up the gun to shoot at least 600 yards. The barrel does not have a muzzle break but I really want to get one put on. My buddy was convincing me to install a better trigger. I am leaning towards a Huskemaw scope, I want a scope where I can just range the animal and dial the scope into the specific range. Any suggestions on how to make this rifle a long range shooting machine would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[WCB]

I'd worry more about ammo selection and finding a quality round that shoots well and performs well on game. Guys are going to instantly tell yo to reload. You don't have to.

I would not buy a Huskemaw scope...Lots of other options out there. I have heard very mixed reviews.

Also, getting a dial cut IMO is not ideal. Work out a dope chart and attach it to the stock of you rifle if conditions/elevation/your load selection change cheaper and a lot simpler to just create a new chart than get a new dial cut.

As far a Muzzle breaks...I have no comment except for I would never put one on a rifle as they are obnoxious.

 

[JGBowman]

I'd worry more about ammo selection and finding a quality round that shoots well and performs well on game. Guys are going to instantly tell yo to reload. You don't have to.

I would not buy a Huskemaw scope...Lots of other options out there. I have heard very mixed reviews.

Also, getting a dial cut IMO is not ideal. Work out a dope chart and attach it to the stock of you rifle if conditions/elevation/your load selection change cheaper and a lot simpler to just create a new chart than get a new dial cut.

As far a Muzzle breaks...I have no comment except for I would never put one on a rifle as they are obnoxious.

Thanks for the input!!

Could you elaborate more on "getting a dial cut IMO is not ideal" comment.

 

[WCB]

Thanks for the input!!

Could you elaborate more on "getting a dial cut IMO is not ideal" comment.

When you get a dial cut for exact yardage (range 500yards dial to 5 type of thing) it is set up for your specific ammunition and velocities out of that gun, at basically a certain temperature, altitude, etc. Taking a basic 180gr load out to 600 yards a 40 degree temp swing could change your POI 2-3"... go from sea level to 5,000 almost 5" POI change @ 600 yds.

If you just get an MOA or MIL dial scope you build a chart tape it to your stock or have it in a stock pad for shooting in PA. Go out west and gain a bunch of elevation put the new elevation numbers in and you will be be right on because you will be dialing to the new ballistics at that elevation not the temp/ elevation in PA.

I think I have made a few different cards for areas I hunt and now when I head to where I hunt deer in Wyoming I through in the ones for that area/general elevation and Temp range.

 

[JGBowman]

When you get a dial cut for exact yardage (range 500yards dial to 5 type of thing) it is set up for your specific ammunition and velocities out of that gun, at basically a certain temperature, altitude, etc. Taking a basic 180gr load out to 600 yards a 40 degree temp swing could change your POI 2-3"... go from sea level to 5,000 almost 5" POI change @ 600 yds.

If you just get an MOA or MIL dial scope you build a chart tape it to your stock or have it in a stock pad for shooting in PA. Go out west and gain a bunch of elevation put the new elevation numbers in and you will be be right on because you will be dialing to the new ballistics at that elevation not the temp/ elevation in PA.

I think I have made a few different cards for areas I hunt and now when I head to where I hunt deer in Wyoming I through in the ones for that area/general elevation and Temp range.

I'm tracking!

 

[blackhawk219]

I will point you in the direction of Nathan Foster. He is a hunter from New Zealand who has taken thousands of game and has tons of real world experience. I have read all of his books and have spoken to him a bunch of times. He has never led me wrong and has a ton of insights. Below is a link to his website where he details bullet selection based on game performance (I have linked the page for 300 WM since that is what you have, but he has a bunch of cartridges researched).

.300 Winchester Magnum

The .300 Winchester Magnum, history, factory loads, hand loads and performance on game.

www.ballisticstudies.com

I would recommend a Sightron SIII scope (that is what was recommended to me by Nathan). I have one in 3.5-10 x 44mm with mildot reticle and .1mrad turrets and it is great! I use mine mostly for brush hunting whitetails in the Northeast with the once a year trip out West. So depending on your intended use (both brush gun/long range or dedicated long range), I would look at either the 3.5-10 power or 6-24 power. The glass is super clear and the turrets track well and reliably. I had a Leupold vx-3i 3.5-10 x 40mm before and I can really tell the difference with the turrets! The glass quality is a little bit better with the Sightron, but barely noticeable.

Good luck with the research and your future hunts. Hope this helps.

 

[Justin Crossley]

I agree you don't need to reload to get into long-range shooting. There are a number of great ammo options out there.

For a scope on that rifle, I would recommend something like a Nightforce 5-20 SHV. I believe it's in the price range of the Huskamaw. The 5-20 SHV has a zero stop, dials correctly, and good glass.

Muzzle brakes are a hot topic for some reason some times. I put them on just about everything and have never wished I didn't have one.

 

[bsnedeker]

I'm a few months into my own 300 WM journey. I'm a novice handloader trying to learn more about true accuracy, but I did start out with some Hornady Precision Hunter ammo that I was impressed by. I was ringing steel at 600 yards with it, no problem.

The one thing I will tell you is that you need to shoot the thing as much as possible. I'm also primarily an archer so I hardly spent any time behind a gun. This was ok when I was shooting my 270, but a 300 is a different animal entirely. You need to learn how to manage that recoil. First few times I went out my shoulder felt like I had been in a car crash. I was seriously considering putting a muzzle break on at first. Since my first few sessions my body has gotten more accustomed to it and my form has gotten better so now I don't feel the recoil the next day, but I sure do feel it when I'm shooting! I've decided I'm going to leave the muzzle break option alone for now because of the increased noise level. Bottom line is you need to figure out a way to manage that recoil in such a way as you aren't flinching.

 

[Mosster47]

600 yards with a 300wm is literally a chip shot. You're not going to need much rifle and you're not going to need much magnification.

It sounds like weight will be a consideration as you're usually shooting up close and don't need a barge with a barrel on it. I got my 300wm as my BDay present when I turned 12 and to be a do-all hunting rifle out west. It's a Model 70 sporter and as a reloader I've always gotten every pill I've shot out of it to be under MOA. The recoil didn't bother me back then, but pushing 40 I'm considering adding a break to it.

If you can get your 300wm to shoot MOA that means you can put a bullet in a 6 inch circle every time out to 600 yards. That's in the boiler room of every big game animal on the planet that I know of.

If 600 is your goal, buy a rifle with an MOA guarantee if you're not a reloader. If you're not wanting to spend a fortune on optics the most rock solid tracking scope that can be had under $400 used is a Vortex Viper HST. I've owned three of them and they track flawlessly. The glass isn't amazing, but 4-16 with any glass is beyond enough out to 600 yards.

Like with anything you can spend as much as you want. With the technology we have today you're not needing much with your goal.

 

[Rstien321]

As I’ve approached my hunting setups I try to match the cartridge, scope, and bullet to match terminal characteristics at a set of ranges. Knowing how your bullet acts on game at different velocities is key!

My .300 win mag is set up for big game out to 600 yards. I have a Leupold VX-6HD 2-12x42 mounted on it and am shooting 180 grain Swift Scirocco II at 3100fps. The bullets velocity is still above 2000fps at that range which provides the correct terminal characteristics in game. I believe I will typically take shorter shots, and that bullet gives me great terminal performance from 0-600 yards.

 

[Where's Bruce?]

I put a muzzle brake, Timney trigger and aftermarket buttpad on my WM, topped with a Nightforce scope I am good to 1000 yards.

 

[Rstien321]

I put a muzzle brake, Timney trigger and aftermarket buttpad on my WM, topped with a Nightforce scope I am good to 1000 yards.

Timney triggers are the best money I’ve spent on my Remington 700!

 

[LightFoot]

The rifle is ready for 600 yards as is.

A scope/rifle level is a must!

Make a "dope chart" and practice practice practice.

Timney makes a good trigger, though I put a Rifle Basix trigger in a M77 7mm-08 I had. It was very good.

Like a previous post, I would go with something other than Huskemaw. There are great buys in almost any price range. Nightforce is the gold standard.

I used to be opposed to muzzle brakes. Now, I have seen the light. We should always be using hearing protection anyway. I have a browning 300wsm with a brake and a thread protector. I thought I would zero with the brake and then set it for without the brake when hunting... nope, brake 100% of the time.



>>>----JAKE----->

 

[elkguide]

First, go out and buy a Ruger 77 in .223 and start shooting a lot at distance. Shooting at 100 yards is one thing but putting a bullet in the vitals at distances over 200 yards is an entirely different thing.

I am a .30 caliber fan. In the winter here, I don't get to shoot much outdoors so I head to the basement with my pellet rifle just to keep my vision of crosshairs on a target, (usually a deer archery target). Once the snow/cold/winds go, I head out to my bench and begin shooting my .22 - .24 - .25 - .27 - .28 caliber rifles to get back to staying on target after recoil. Then I start mixing in some of my .30 caliber rifles. Once I know where I'm heading out to hunt the in west where I can get into some longer shots, I decide which .30 caliber rifle that I'm going to use that year and I begin shooting that rifle regularly. I am fortunate to be able to shoot at my range to 500 yards right behind my house. Once I am comfortable that I have my shots hitting consistently off the bench, I start shooting standing, sitting, prone and all sorts of hunting positions.

So good luck on your adventure, shoot a lot and have fun!

 

[Northernpiker]

Try different bullets, at 100-200 yards, in your gun until you find one you're happy with. Then start extending the range. moving back to 600 yards and shooting 6" groups is not an easy task. I don't know what your existing trigger is like but most factory triggers are to hard, you'll have to decide that. I like muzzel brakes on my larger calibers, just don't forget your ear protection (with or without a brake). Research scopes in your price range and get one you're happy with...you'll probably end up upgrading or changing anyway. It's a fun sport to venture into. As noted above, I would get a .223, 6.5 CM or something less abusing to shoot more.

 

[Mosster47]

I totally agree with everyone on getting a 223 for practice. I've got a few friends that use 17WSMs now for distance practice out to 300 yards.

 

[RazzleDazzle]

Trade it for a 7 mag and dont worry about brakes and recoil and still do the same thing
I'm just kidding fellas. Great rifle and great cartridge. Plenty of great advice above.