I love cheap arrows

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Mikido

Mikido

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Square ends affect both concentricity as well as durability.
Well the tail end is square on them all right?

As for the front….maybe as that bh slams into target, the face of the insert pushing on a tip of the carbon shaft (as opposed to a full 360 of contact)?

I would think the glue contact to the insert is absorbing all that energy. I’ve never had damage to the arrow at the front, shooting thousands of times over the years, with a good number of my arrows not being perfectly square.

What effect does concentricity have?
 
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Mikido

Mikido

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Deviation from the centerline of the arrow when rotated. Basically if it has wobble when spinning
They Spin straight to my bare eye at the edge of my workbench. We building arrows for nasa here?
 
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I dont see the point of this thread, did you just want some people to argue with about this? This is a gear forum, many people on here are interested in having high quality gear, including arrows, myself included. If your arrows shoot good enough for you, and you are just going to pick a fight over any difference in opinion without an open mind, why start the thread at all? If you only shoot to 40, then back up to 100 yards and see what your groups look like if you've never done so
Man I bet I can out tool, out build, out fix, out repair, and out run any man on this thread. (Get the reference?)
Thats a pretty bold claim lol
 

406unltd

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I dont see the point of this thread, did you just want some people to argue with about this? This is a gear forum, many people on here are interested in having high quality gear, including arrows, myself included. If your arrows shoot good enough for you, and you are just going to pick a fight over any difference in opinion without an open mind, why start the thread at all? If you only shoot to 40, then back up to 100 yards and see what your groups look like if you've never done so

Thats a pretty bold claim lol
Seems like a bit of a troll to me as well. If the guy wants to pull some shafts out of the pack and Dremel them free hand and stick some inserts in with some Elmers then so be it. None of my business, and I’m surely not arguing about it haha.
 

87TT

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Why does squaring the ends matter if the insert is like an inch into the arrow? The end isn’t what makes it square I wouldn’t think.

With my factory cheap arrows….ive done the spin tests, the BH match my field points when
I tune my bow properly, and I don’t quite understand the “durability” of the more expensive arrows. Pretty sure that buck’s shoulder blade will snap any arrow in half on the run?

I will trust the comp shooters opinion though, I can see why there’s a difference at 50+ on target, but we must all agree up to 40 (my comfort range) on game, they all are accurate.

And both the arguing dudes have a point, but I appreciate everyone’s responses.
Inserts are not all that tight when you push them in and the inside of the arrow is not perfect either (both ends). The inserts and nocks are more uniform so if you square the ends with a proper tool, they will seat more squarely. If the arrow isn't square, it won't spin right and it will effect arrow flight. Haven't even got to nock tuning.
That's it before I start making memes.
 

Zac

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Man I bet I can out tool, out build, out fix, out repair, and out run any man on this thread. (Get the reference?)
The reference I get is that those of us that use high end components are wasting our money unnecessarily. We're just waiting for you to inform us that you've never had to twist a cable in your life, and that you shoot Thunderheads into a one inch group at 60 with your Walmart caliper release.
 
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Mikido

Mikido

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Accidentally deleted my last post, trying to close the thread.

Thanks for all the responses, got what I needed.
 

5MilesBack

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I don’t quite understand the “durability” of the more expensive arrows. Pretty sure that buck’s shoulder blade will snap any arrow in half on the run?
First......I want my arrows to survive hitting rebar inside 3D targets, rocks after passing through a grouse, and just general stump shooting, or shooting at stuff people normally don't shoot at.

Second, I put an arrow through both shoulder blades on a bull and that arrow stayed inside both blades while sticking out each side. That was a high hit from a deflection off a twig I didn't see, and that bull took my arrow for a ride. That arrow survived unscathed but lost the BH in the process of it working its way out, and the arrow shaft was filled with blood when I found it. I used that same arrow the next year to shoot another bull, and I still have that arrow.

The price of the arrow doesn't determine how durable it is or will be.
 
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The reference I get is that those of us that use high end components are wasting our money unnecessarily. We're just waiting for you to inform us that you've never had to twist a cable in your life, and that you shoot Thunderheads into a one inch group at 60 with your Walmart caliper release.


I have to laugh, I get the reference.


But can't find anything appropriate to say, so I'll say nothing at all.
 
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TX_hunter

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Cheap arrows can work sometimes, but you are going to get looser straightness tolerances. You can see this with the naked eye when you put the arrow on a spinner. They'll fly with field points, but a fixed broadhead will cause issues.

If you have a shorter draw length, you can cut the arrow at both ends and end up with a straighter arrow. I have a 30" draw length so I'm not cutting much, so can't really take advantage of that method.

You need to square both ends of the arrow. A lot of times I've found the nock end to be worse than the end I just cut.

You also need to define "good enough" for groups. If a paper plate at 30 or 40 yards is "good enough", you can get by with some really crappy arrow flight. I like to practice out to 100-120 yards.

Spine options are also limited in the bargain arrows. I shoot 250 or 200 spine (depending which bow), so that by default limits me to higher end arrows. Black eagle outlaws are a great value, and I have a dozen 300 spine for a lightweight target arrow, but I like to hunt with a heavier arrow so my hunting setup for that bow is the more expensive black eagle carnivore in 250 spine.
 

307

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If we look past the trollish nature of the post, I think there is some value in identifying the limiting factors in overall accuracy.

Killing animals out to 40 yards is actually a pretty low threshold for archery accuracy with modern equipment and can likely be achieved easily with modern "cheap arrows". Cheap arrows may not be a limiting factor for that level of precision.

For a 275 (Vegas face) shooter, there may be zero difference between cheap arrows, somewhat poorly assembled, and a high quality, very well constructed with tight tolerances. For this guy, the arrow isn't limiting performance.

Hand those arrows to a pro who shoots 300, 25x regularly, and he will probably have a very different opinion on whether the cheap arrows are adequate.

I build arrows that reflect my level of skill and desired accuracy and to a level where I dont believe that they limit my performance.

For reference, I'm a 298, 18x type of archer.
 

MattB

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I dont see the point of this thread, did you just want some people to argue with about this? This is a gear forum, many people on here are interested in having high quality gear, including arrows, myself included. If your arrows shoot good enough for you, and you are just going to pick a fight over any difference in opinion without an open mind, why start the thread at all? If you only shoot to 40, then back up to 100 yards and see what your groups look like if you've never done so
The thread is just mis-titled, should have been "I do not know what I do not know and want to keep it that way".
 
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Man i was really hoping someone would hit him with a meme with brick from anchorman saying "i love lamp." In response to him saying "i love cheap arrows" lol. Having meme withdrawals since the drama llama thread petered out!
 
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