I need help tuning my SR6

[WYCFM1]

I wouldn’t spend the $150 for the laser because all that can do for you is maybe skip one single yoke adjustment...you will get there the same way with a straight arrow or a straight edge of some sort....the only reason I adjust my cam lean first is because it will not matter much if you get the timing pegs close...if one cam is leaning more than the other you really will struggle to get those timing pegs the touch the string at the same time...I believe this is partly the reason why some ppls bows will tune with the top cam just a hair bit faster than the bottom because one the the cams is leaning more and trying to spin home to a different point than the top....typically you see this with single yoke bows like a Hoyt.


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[Bbell12]

So I ran out of daylight and didn’t get to spend extra time confirming everything but I did what was recommended and got a bullet hole on my paper tune. I appreciate all the help. Didn’t realize how big of a difference a small amount of timing and lean can make.

 

[WYCFM1]

Awesome man


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[Bbell12]

Resurrecting this thread because I have an interesting tuning issue.

So, I yoke tuned my bow to shoot bullet holes through paper (and as documented above, fine tuned my cam timing). Then I shot bareshafts out to 30 and made minor adjustments to my rest to get them to group with my field points. Then I verified my broadheads grouping with my field points out to 30.

But, when I stepped back to 40 and 50 yards, my broadheads began to separate from my field points. They were shooting about 3” high so I lowered my rest about 1/16” and now they group again out to 50. However, my bareshafts are now shooting considerably lower than my field points.

So my question is, why are my bareshafts and broadheads so off from each other? I was thinking that if my bareshafts grouped with my field points then I could screw on a broadhead and it would shoot the same.

 

[sndmn11]

Your bare shafts are not being stabilized and their wobbling is causing drag and energy lose. So, they bleed velocity faster and end up lower. Like a right spiral VS a duck.

Forget them until the spring and go hunt, the fix is likely a little tuning and a lot more shot execution.

 

[Zac]

Resurrecting this thread because I have an interesting tuning issue.

So, I yoke tuned my bow to shoot bullet holes through paper (and as documented above, fine tuned my cam timing). Then I shot bareshafts out to 30 and made minor adjustments to my rest to get them to group with my field points. Then I verified my broadheads grouping with my field points out to 30.

But, when I stepped back to 40 and 50 yards, my broadheads began to separate from my field points. They were shooting about 3” high so I lowered my rest about 1/16” and now they group again out to 50. However, my bareshafts are now shooting considerably lower than my field points.

So my question is, why are my bareshafts and broadheads so off from each other? I was thinking that if my bareshafts grouped with my field points then I could screw on a broadhead and it would shoot the same.

I wouldn't worry much about it. Broadheads are the gold standard, not a bare shaft. I've had bare shafts touching fletched shafts at 40 and still had to make adjustments when I started shooting broadheads. Anymore I'm just going to go straight to broadheads, and quit wasting time with all the other methods.

 

[JeffRaines]

I wouldn't worry much about it. Broadheads are the gold standard, not a bare shaft. I've had bare shafts touching fletched shafts at 40 and still had to make adjustments when I started shooting broadheads. Anymore I'm just going to go straight to broadheads, and quit wasting time with all the other methods.

This is the way.