I need help tuning my SR6

[Bbell12]

So I’m endeavoring to build and tune my own bow for the first time and I’m having a problem getting it to paper tune.

So first of all, I replaced the strings. Tied in my nock sets where my arrow was square at the Berger hole. Tied in my peep sight and D loop. Then set my cam lean square and my cam timing to where both stops are hitting at almost the same time.

Now I’m getting a wicked nock high tear and the only way to get it to shoot bullet holes is by moving my rest so far down that it looks like this.



I yoke tuned it enough to where my left/right looks really good but how do I fix this?

I’m also worried that if I move my nock point down that I won’t clear the shelf with my fletching.

 

[Samdemarais]

What do you mean by cam stops hit at “almost” the same time. Also, did your bow meet all specs when you restrung it?

 

[OR Archer]

First off if you we’re getting a nock high tear you would move the rest up not down. Also if your cam timing isn’t even then you will get vertical nock travel. I’d suggest you reset everything to level and correct your timing. Once you get that reset take a little bit of time and learn to read your tears. It’ll help you in the long run.

 

[Bbell12]

My bad, I meant nock low. Don’t know why I typed that. Here’s a pic.



And yes I checked ATA and brace height when I restrung it, I haven’t checked it again since I fixed my cam lean but my cables are hitting dead center of the timing marks and here’s where my stops are hitting.




They’re not perfectly even but I’m not sure that’s my problem.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Billy Goat]

So how is the timing on your drop away?

Seems your rest is low, but a picture at brace doesn't tell alot.

I'm no bowtech mechanic, but maybe picture in a draw board to show where the shaft is at full draw would help.

 

[OR Archer]

Fix the timing. You have one stop buried and the other is touching by a frog hair. I would bet if you were to let it up where the buried stop is just touching the other would be off by at least a 1/4”. They have to be even on a binary/dual cam like that or you’re going to have terrible nock travel as you’ve seen. Plus you’re also tail left. But correct the cam timing and reset everything to level and start over.

 

[Bbell12]

Fix the timing. You have one stop buried and the other is touching by a frog hair. I would bet if you were to let it up where the buried stop is just touching the other would be off by at least a 1/4”. They have to be even on a binary/dual cam like that or you’re going to have terrible nock travel as you’ve seen. Plus you’re also tail left. But correct the cam timing and reset everything to level and start over.

Thanks, I’ll try this tomorrow and will report back.

Do I also need to re-check my ATA after I fix the timing?

 

[Samdemarais]

Ya in the world of cam timing that is quite a bit off. Like OR said fix that first and level rest

 

[Mighty Mouse]

What rest is that? Vapor Trail Gen 7?

 

[Bbell12]

What rest is that? Vapor Trail Gen 7?
View attachment 311886

Yessir that’s right.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Yessir that’s right.

I haven't set up a Gen 7, but I have used a Pro V and I think the mechanics are the same. Shouldn't the V-shaped arm/cradle be fully in the down position when the bow is relaxed? Skip to 3:45 in the video below and watch the arm rise as the guy draws. Yours looks like the arm couldn't be dropping much, if at all, from full draw to brace, which would likely cause fletching contact and result in weird paper tears.

 

[OR Archer]

I haven't set up a Gen 7, but I have used a Pro V and I think the mechanics are the same. Shouldn't the V-shaped arm/cradle be fully in the down position when the bow is relaxed? Skip to 3:45 in the video below and watch the arm rise as the guy draws. Yours looks like the arm couldn't be dropping much, if at all, from full draw to brace, which would likely cause fletching contact and result in weird paper tears.

I think it’s only up so he could show nock and rest position.

 

[WYCFM1]

So I’ve found that with yokes for top and bottom cam like on a Bowtech you can get the timing really close with your rest set perfectly to spec and it won’t shoot.....the problem is that your cams need to match each other with the exact amount of cam lean angle and it should fix it....I’ve seen a few knowledgeable ppl struggle with this and they end up adjusting nock height to help the paper tear but that’s sort of a band aid fix IMO.....if you hold an arrow against a flat surface of the cam and look down the length of the shaft you should see the arrow either crossing the string or running slightly away from the string.....if you can get both cams to have the exact same angle THEN TIME your cams I’m willing to bet it shoots a bullet hole...another good thing to do the cancel out any other issues is bottom out your limb bolts so they are at some sort of indicator and then back them out to whatever poundage you want to shoot but make sure you back out both limb bolts the exact revolutions as the other limb bolt....in my experience I’ve never seen a bowtech with dual yokes without a decent amount of cam lean after tuning to a nice bullet hole


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[Zac]

You might want to invest in one of those Spot Hogg lasers for cam alignment.

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[Bbell12]

I think it’s only up so he could show nock and rest position.

This is correct.

 

[Bbell12]

So I’ve found that with yokes for top and bottom cam like on a Bowtech you can get the timing really close with your rest set perfectly to spec and it won’t shoot.....the problem is that your cams need to match each other with the exact amount of cam lean angle and it should fix it....I’ve seen a few knowledgeable ppl struggle with this and they end up adjusting nock height to help the paper tear but that’s sort of a band aid fix IMO.....if you hold an arrow against a flat surface of the cam and look down the length of the shaft you should see the arrow either crossing the string or running slightly away from the string.....if you can get both cams to have the exact same angle THEN TIME your cams I’m willing to bet it shoots a bullet hole...

I actually noticed that my cams weren't at the same angle during initial setup so I adjusted the cams to where they are both at the same angle now. Good to know that you adjust angle before timing though.

You might want to invest in one of those Spot Hogg lasers for cam alignment.

And I thought about buying one but after I read this thread on AT I decided against it since so many others had success tuning these bows without one.

Cam lean laser bow bowtech sr6.. do I need one

www.archerytalk.com

 

[tsm213]

I just put new strings on my Sr6 a couple weeks ago. Cable stops hitting the same time. Bottom of the arrow through the middle of the Berger holes, arrow level . Rest centered on the riser. I don’t shoot through paper. I usually just shoot a bare shaft and make some adjustments. All I had to do is put a couple twists on one side of the yokes and I was good. My fixed broadheads are flying and grouping good at 50. Thats my measure of bow tune.
I would definitely get your stops hitting at the same time and make sure you have the same twists in your yokes top and bottom. Then check it.

One thing I’ve screwed up in the past is putting the cables on the wrong side of the rollers on the cable guard. Now I make sure I take a picture before to get it correct.


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[Zac]

I actually noticed that my cams weren't at the same angle during initial setup so I adjusted the cams to where they are both at the same angle now. Good to know that you adjust angle before timing though.

And I thought about buying one but after I read this thread on AT I decided against it since so many others had success tuning these bows without one.

Cam lean laser bow bowtech sr6.. do I need one

www.archerytalk.com

So you actually want the cams to line up at full draw. Not at rest.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I think it’s only up so he could show nock and rest position.

This is correct.

10-4. In the first photo it looked like the rest activation cord was still taut, which is why I asked about it, but you must have slacked the cord off enough to let the rest arm rise.

 

[OR Archer]

I actually noticed that my cams weren't at the same angle during initial setup so I adjusted the cams to where they are both at the same angle now. Good to know that you adjust angle before timing though.

And I thought about buying one but after I read this thread on AT I decided against it since so many others had success tuning these bows without one.

Cam lean laser bow bowtech sr6.. do I need one

www.archerytalk.com

When setting your cam lean just use a shaft and lay it against the cam. Adjust your yokes until it’s close to parallel to the string. Repeat for the other cam so it matches the first. Once that’s done then set your cam timing. Don’t waste money on a laser.