I received a SinoArt recurve for Christmas - questions and ramblings

[Yard Candy]

I received my first bow for Christmas, a SinoArt 58" Recurve with 30lb and 45lb limbs. I have always had an interest in archery - not only as a "backyard hobby" but also for hunting. I am a rifle/crossbow hunter and avid outdoorsman so I understand that there are various tiers of quality with gear. Since I'm new to archery I don't know what makes a bow good, accurate, reliable, etc.

I know that form and consistancy are the crux of archery. As with most things now a'days I consulted YouTube to learn about (presumably) proper form and technique after opening my gift Christmas Day. I have since been plinking in the backyard. I started at 10 yards and am now shooting from 15. When doing 5-shot groups, typically 4/5 of my arrows are in the lungs on my deer anatomy target.

I'm enjoying myself and I seem to be doing well. Based on that and being able to shoot consisent groupings I would think the bow is decent even if on the cheaper end of the spectrum.

Questions:

1. There is no quiver attached to this bow or predrilled holes for one. Is there a way to attach one for hunting?
2. I've sent about 150 arrows downrange so far and noticed that I'm having an issue where the shaft of the arrow has worn down into the rest's 3M fuzzy pad. Not the vertical pad, but the horizontal one that the arrow sits on. Is that something that I'm supposed to be replacing every so many shots or is it wearing because something isn't tuned right?
3. I'm thankful for the gift regardless, and as I mentioned I'm enjoying using it, but I'd like to know if the bow is decent quality-wise?

I am using these 400 spine arrows, though I recently learned I should probably be using 500 spine. My nock point is 1/2" above the shelf and I didn't notice any porposing, though I'm not an expert by any means, so I left it there.

 

[oldgoat]

No clue about that bow, but for the price it's a good way to start and you can buy a better one later once you have a better idea what's going on. Right now it probably shoots better than you do right? That wear on the shelf isn't unusual, might try raising your nock point another eighth inch and it might slow down the wear some as well as proper spine arrows, change out the material if you want but not really a big immediate concern in my book. I'd guess you need weaker arrows like you mentioned, but if you aren't getting fish tailing I wouldn't worry. If you have some broadheads and a good place to shoot them, they will tell you all you need to know about your arrow tuning, magnifies issues that you might not be able to see shooting field tips. Also those inexpensive bows come with crap strings, simply upgrading the string can make a noticable difference!

 

[LostArra]

1. Yes you can attach a bow quiver. You would look for a strap-on style. Eagles Flight Archery makes a nice basic model. It would need to be strapped on so it is not on a working part of the limb. Selway makes a slide-on model that would probably work but I've never used one.

2. What oldgoat said especially the new string. And learn how to string it properly! If I'm shooting at least once a week I don't unstring my recurves. Others may disagree.

3. The limbs are straight and haven't cracked or broken It sounds like it is shooting as accurately as you can shoot and you are enjoying it, so yes I would say it's a good quality bow for you.
Plus it sounds like someone bought it for you as a gift. You are many many many dollars ahead of the rest of us flinging arrows.

The largest part of archery accuracy is the shooter not his equipment.

Have fun.
Learn good shooting form.
Go hunt. Get close and shoot something.

Your bow looks very similar to a group of imported bows that are sold by various names: Mandarin Duck, Black Hunter, Twig Archery. They get good reviews. Look at youtube.



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[Beendare]

Yep, its not the bow....its the Indian.

You didn't give DL or any specs....those arrows are probably too stiff...shoot a bare shaft, no fletch and that will indicate good/Bad spine....AND good or bad form.

You shooting 3 under or split? I am assuming split in a 58" bow

Its all about having fun.....great that you like it....its addicting for sure.

Its usually more fun when you are shooting well....and to shoot consistently well you will need to develop good form. Can you hold and aim at full draw without quivering........or are you shooting Grip and Rip?

 

[Yard Candy]

That wear on the shelf isn't unusual, might try raising your nock point another eighth inch and it might slow down the wear some as well as proper spine arrows

I'll raise the nock point and swap the material to see if it improves.

I'd guess you need weaker arrows like you mentioned, but if you aren't getting fish tailing I wouldn't worry.

I'm not getting fishtailing, that I'm noticing.

If you have some broadheads and a good place to shoot them, they will tell you all you need to know about your arrow tuning, magnifies issues that you might not be able to see shooting field tips.

I have Muzzy Trocars that I use on my crossbow. I could probably slap those on and see the difference. I'm familiar with how broadheads act differently than field tips, from shooting the crossbow.

Also those inexpensive bows come with crap strings, simply upgrading the string can make a noticable difference!

Before I blindly start looking things up do you have any recommendations on certain strings?

Thanks!

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[Yard Candy]

Yes you can attach a bow quiver. You would look for a strap-on style. Eagles Flight Archery makes a nice basic model. It would need to be strapped on so it is not on a working part of the limb. Selway makes a slide-on model that would probably work but I've never used one.

Awesome I didn't know they made those. Thanks!

If I'm shooting at least once a week I don't unstring my recurves. Others may disagree.

I've been trying to shoot every other day, minimum. Not knowing any better I've been unstringing after each shoot.

Plus it sounds like someone bought it for you as a gift. You are many many many dollars ahead of the rest of us flinging arrows.

Yes my wonderful wife got it for me

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[Yard Candy]

You didn't give DL or any specs

What's DL and what specs would you be referring to. Newbie here.

those arrows are probably too stiff...shoot a bare shaft, no fletch and that will indicate good/Bad spine....AND good or bad form.

I started reading about bare shaft. This is all new to me so I wasn't sure if that was overkill or actually necessary. I guess I'll keep reading about it.

You shooting 3 under or split? I am assuming split in a 58" bow

3 under. I started split but it just didn't feel as good to me. My groupings improved doing 3 under as well.

Can you hold and aim at full draw without quivering........or are you shooting Grip and Rip?

With the 45# limbs that came with it I can hold long enough to not feel like I'm rushing (a few seconds). But that's why I ordered an additional set of limbs at 30#... I know form is important so I wanted to learn on lighter weight anyway. I don't want to develop bad habits.

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[oldgoat]

Awesome I didn't know they made those. Thanks!



I've been trying to shoot every other day, minimum. Not knowing any better I've been unstringing after each shoot.



Yes my wonderful wife got it for me

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Just about any custom string maker, rmsgear.com is who I bought most of mine from before I started making my own.

I'll raise the nock point and swap the material to see if it improves.



I'm not getting fishtailing, that I'm noticing.



I have Muzzy Trocars that I use on my crossbow. I could probably slap those on and see the difference. I'm familiar with how broadheads act differently than field tips, from shooting the crossbow.



Before I blindly start looking things up do you have any recommendations on certain strings?

Thanks!

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I'd call rmsgear.com and talk to Alex, i would guess that bow has reinforced limb tips, get Alex to build you a string from a low stretch material if the limb tips are reinforced. He makes great strings and they are competitively priced. Good place to buy a Selway Quiver too, that's what I have on all my bows after trying several brands.

 

[ledflight]

This is a version of the black hunter and it's been a very popular new bow for trad shooters lately. I don't have one but have seen them in person and generally it's considered a good bow for the money. People who own custom bows have commented that they enjoy shooting that bow. Welcome to trad!


You can leave it strung for as long as you want but if you're safely using the stringer than you should be fine.

Try taking some pics and slow mo videos of your shots and form. Most smart phones have pretty good slow mo video now and you can see how the arrow leaves the shelf - cleanly or not. But you probably need more time to become really consistent to make spending a lot of time fine tuning worth it.

 

[Blackcow]

Basic Tuning

For our first entry here I'm going to put up a document about basic bow tuning. Later I will also add some more advanced information. This one is long, but well worth the read. Bow Tuning By O.L. Adcock Before we jump into this, what I'm about to say and recommend is contrary to what you'll...

www.fenderarchery.com

I agree that tuning isn’t super important until you have at least semi proper and repeatable form, it helps if you’re at least in the ballpark. Buy a few arrow and field tip test kits.

 

[Yard Candy]

Try taking some pics and slow mo videos of your shots and form.

I planned on it! Is there a preferred place on the forum for "form check" videos? I did a few searches and didn't come up with anything.

 

[ledflight]

I planned on it! Is there a preferred place on the forum for "form check" videos? I did a few searches and didn't come up with anything.

Hmm, I don't see a ton here, I do see a lot of that on the Traditional Bowhunters Facebook group. People here would probably help though!

 

[Beendare]

YC, shooting a bareshaft- no fletch- tells you whether your arrow is flying straight...start at 10 yds. If not, it could be poor form or the wrong spined arrows. For example: I shoot bareshaft once a week to keep me from plucking my release.

INFO:
What you will find when searching the internet for tips is there is a lot of noise out there....and some of it is garbage grip and rip!

Even if you just plan to be a short range instinctive aim bowhunter, good alignment...and good form fundamentals are key.

If you want to take it to the next level target shooting then you will want to check the formal training sites like KSL, Jake Kaminsky, World archery, Rod Jenkins.


The free resources I like:
the stickys on the Archery talk Trad section.

The push, Jake Kamisky, anything by Rod Jenkins, jimmy blackmon,Arne Moe, clay hanes, world archery all on youtube

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

You are off to a FANTASTIC start, especially if it was a gift. You should consider putting $200 into the SOLID archery mechanics online course offered on the Push archery website. It's hours of video modules, with an online forum. A lifetime of direct access to a comprehensive archery course aimed at hunters. Tom Clum is a lvl 4 olympic NTS coach, but he's a bowhunter as well.

 

[Yard Candy]

YC, shooting a bareshaft- no fletch- tells you whether your arrow is flying straight...start at 10 yds. If not, it could be poor form or the wrong spined arrows. For example: I shoot bareshaft once a week to keep me from plucking my release.

INFO:
What you will find when searching the internet for tips is there is a lot of noise out there....and some of it is garbage grip and rip!

Even if you just plan to be a short range instinctive aim bowhunter, good alignment...and good form fundamentals are key.

If you want to take it to the next level target shooting then you will want to check the formal training sites like KSL, Jake Kaminsky, World archery, Rod Jenkins.


The free resources I like:
the stickys on the Archery talk Trad section.

The push, Jake Kamisky, anything by Rod Jenkins, jimmy blackmon,Arne Moe, clay hanes, world archery all on youtube

Great stuff thank you.

When shooting bareshaft do you literally just pick an arrow and remove the fletching, or is there some magical arrow I'm supposed to get for it?

 

[Yard Candy]

You are off to a FANTASTIC start, especially if it was a gift. You should consider putting $200 into the SOLID archery mechanics online course offered on the Push archery website. It's hours of video modules, with an online forum. A lifetime of direct access to a comprehensive archery course aimed at hunters. Tom Clum is a lvl 4 olympic NTS coach, but he's a bowhunter as well.

I will definitely invest in that. I never would have guess there were online courses for this stuff.

This is why I love this forum. Super helpful - productive - not judgemental.

 

[Beendare]

Great stuff thank you.

When shooting bareshaft do you literally just pick an arrow and remove the fletching, or is there some magical arrow I'm supposed to get for it?

Just strip the fletch on an arrow with a field point... dont do it with a BH.

 

[Ahutch]

Yeah!! All kindsa craziness happens when bareshafting with a broadhead....lol



Hutch

 

[Yard Candy]

Alrighty... form check time. Any feedback is appreciated. I'm shooting 30# limbs, 12 paces from target. Grouping is decent so I must be shooting fairly consistently.

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