Ideas for Building New Arrows

[CCooper]

About ready to pickup my new RX7 Ultra and am considering a new arrow system for the new bow. Let's say price doesn't matter and a guy wants the best of the best. I have always trusted shops and arrow makers to produce what's right for my needs and specs as a shooter. I will not get caught up in what I've used before and has worked well up to this point. I really am a novice to arrows and shooting really, have only been in archery game for 5 years- I shoot a fair amount, and have gotten pretty decent at putting arrows where I want them. FOC, Spine, arrow diameter, fletch configuration, # of fletch is all fairly foreign to me, again I have relied on others to give me what I needed to get the job done. Suggestions on arrow and broadhead configurations are much appreciated. Let's keep it on topic, and not another ranch fairy derail or debate on FOC, although I have enjoyed reading some the forums regarding such.

Elk is the ONLY critter on the menu- 0-50 yards is my comfort level on game, although I shoot out to 100 occasionally for fun.

Shooter Specs:
RH
27" DL

Bow Specs:
Hoyt RX7 Ultra
27" DL
70#
GAS Ghost Strings
MBG S&S Backcountry 5 pin Slider w/ Pic Mount
Hamskea Epsilon Rest
Spider 8" stabilizer
Hoyt Lo-Pro Quiver (still awaiting)
I shoot a Spott Hogg Wise Guy Boa Release

Let me know if I have missed any metrics. My brain leads toward heavy for caliber, as it does with rifle bullets, but I am keeping an open mind. Maybe someone can run this through a calculator for me? Let's try to keep this constructive.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Rob5589]

"Novice to arrows and shooting..."

Stick with something common and durable; Gold Tip GT Hunter, .300, 50 gr insert, 100 gr head, 3 fletch, go kill stuff.

 

[JjamesIII]

I’m a bit longer draw, but it’s a compound, so spine isn’t terribly critical unless your shooting weak. 350-300 spine (consult charts). I like basic gold tip xt hunters for the durability and .300” tolerance is as straight as you should need for fixed blade broadheads. Spin check all of them, cull the bad ones because you’ll beat your head again the wall trying to tune bad shafts. Square up both the nock and broadhead ends with a FACT device. Number them with a sharpie to figure out the good shooters from the outliers.
Broadheads- iron will for elk on a baller budget, VAP or exodus are cheaper and don’t compromise much. I add weight to make my point weight 150 grains if the heads are lighter. I like to practice with the exact arrow/broadhead paired together and them sharpen them when it’s time to kill. It gives me confidence knowing where they’re going to hit.
On the back of the arrow, I like four fletch aae max stealth vanes with a modest helical. They are quiet in flight and stuff enough to steer well. Nocturnal nocks will pay for themselves the first arrow/broadhead you recover in low light.

 

[Creed28]

Vector HMR

 

[Caleb777]

Check into Easton Axis Match arrows and Black Eagle Rampage. Those two seem to be the best of all the worlds. Small diameter(not micro and not standard size), good weight for spine ratio (black eagle is slightly lighter). As far as inserts you can experiment with either HIT, half outs, or outserts(ethics archery has outserts for these shafts). Lighted nocks for this diameter of shaft still are durable (whereas the micro diameters struggle). And if you’re a 4 fletch guy, you still have enough shaft for them all to fit (this can be an issue with some vanes depending on the amount of offset or helical).

I personally shoot the axis arrows at the moment but will likely transition into black eagle. I like heavy arrows and reasonable FOC. These two shafts give me lots of room to play!

I really like the broadheads from VPA, Cutthroat, Bishop, and OzCut.

Nocturnal nocks seem to be the ticket in lighted nocks nowadays and they have improved their off switch for the new year model.

In my opinion, it’s pretty hard to beat AAE vanes. Currently using the max stealth vanes. Keep in mind, a good wrap is a great idea. Especially if you mess up gluing vanes on. Black ovis wraps rock!

 

[CCooper]

For context I guess I should include my current arrow setup:
Day six 300 spine- 28” from carbon to valley of nock, 50 grain insert and collar / 125 gr day six evo solid broad head for a total weight of 526 gr
These are being shot from a RX1 @72# 27” DL

 

[Samdemarais]

I would shoot the same arrows and spend time worrying about something else

 

[Zac]

If I was going to try something new I'd try Firenock.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

If price truly doesn't matter, I'd choose a ±.001" straightness shaft and put an Iron Will on the front and a Firenock on the back. Diameter and arrow weight choices are largely personal preference. I'd go with a medium gpi standard diameter shaft and shoot for a TAW in the high 400's to low 500's.

 

[positivepete!]

Gold tip pierce tour 300
Easton titanium half -certs
4 flech aae max stealth w/ helical
Pin knocks with bushings
Iron will s100

Thats my set up but I shoot pierce platinum for 3D

 

[Billy Goat]

I’m a bit longer draw, but it’s a compound, so spine isn’t terribly critical unless your shooting weak. 350-300 spine (consult charts). I like basic gold tip xt hunters for the durability and .300” tolerance is as straight as you should need for fixed blade broadheads. Spin check all of them, cull the bad ones because you’ll beat your head again the wall trying to tune bad shafts. Square up both the nock and broadhead ends with a FACT device. Number them with a sharpie to figure out the good shooters from the outliers.
Broadheads- iron will for elk on a baller budget, VAP or exodus are cheaper and don’t compromise much. I add weight to make my point weight 150 grains if the heads are lighter. I like to practice with the exact arrow/broadhead paired together and them sharpen them when it’s time to kill. It gives me confidence knowing where they’re going to hit.
On the back of the arrow, I like four fletch aae max stealth vanes with a modest helical. They are quiet in flight and stuff enough to steer well. Nocturnal nocks will pay for themselves the first arrow/broadhead you recover in low light.

Why buy .003's, which is what I assume you are saying, just to go thru and cull them?


With fixed heads it's always in your benefit to start with as straight of a shaft as possible.



Op you have a solid setup as it is, heavy, but solid.

I'd go lighter, I have to think you are on the border of 230fps and I'd prefer to be faster so you get some leeway on yardage. Continue to use a quality head.

 

[OR Archer]

If I were to go with a different arrow than what I’m currently shooting it’d be this exact set up and I’m the same exact specs as you 27/70.

Easton Axis Match 340 cut to 27”
50gr brass insert
Iron Will aluminum collar
100gr head
4”wrap
4 fletched w/ AAE Hybrid 23s
Standard X nock.

This would put you at roughly 460-475 TAO.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I have to think you are on the border of 230fps

I'd guess at least 250 fps at 70#/27"/500-ish gr with a 330-ish IBO bow.

 

[CCooper]

I am soaking all this in, thanks everyone for taking time to comment. Please continue.

 

[Billy Goat]

I'd guess at least 250 fps at 70#/27"/500-ish gr with a 330-ish IBO bow.

Could be, I didn't look up what the rx-7 ultra is claiming. Just knowing several guys with that draw and helping them with a few different arrow weights, seems 230-240 range to me.

175 grains past 350 is cutting it down close 60 fps, then another 30 for the 3" shorter draw.

Unless those cams are really efficient with heavy weight arrows.

 

[Caleb777]

For the FPS comments. Take it for what’s it’s worth, but my bows ibo is 350fps and with a 622 grain arrow @28” draw shooting 64lbs was 242fps. I believe he will be in the 250 range as well

 

[OR Archer]

For the FPS comments. Take it for what’s it’s worth, but my bows ibo is 350fps and with a 622 grain arrow @28” draw shooting 64lbs was 242fps. I believe he will be in the 250 range as well

If he’s over 500 there’s no way he’s in the 250 range. My RX4 ultra at 27/70 with a 455gr arrow is only making 260fps at the same IBO rating as the RX7 ultra.

 

[Caleb777]

If he’s over 500 there’s no way he’s in the 250 range. My RX4 ultra at 27/70 with a 455gr arrow is only making 260fps at the same IBO rating as the RX7 ultra.

We must take into account cam efficiency. Two bows of the same ibo but newer technology. They can launch a heavier arrow faster than a less efficient cam. That’s why there are so many different cam shapes that have the same ibo. Some are more efficient at carrying energy through the string. Which allows them to not lose speed as fast when shooting heavier arrows as other bows (even though the ibo is the same)
I’m a manufacturing/applications engineer and have done lots of reading on how a mechanical cam functions.
You may be right, it might not make 250fps. But based on what I’ve seen and experience as an engineer, the cam is pretty efficient and I feel like it will be darn close to the 250fps mark assuming the tune and timing is perfect

 

[Caleb777]

To the OP, Is your bow set at 70#? Or cranked all the way down? If it’s bottomed out typically you’ll have more than 70# draw weight. That will help your fps numbers as well

 

[Rob5589]

For context I guess I should include my current arrow setup:
Day six 300 spine- 28” from carbon to valley of nock, 50 grain insert and collar / 125 gr day six evo solid broad head for a total weight of 526 gr
These are being shot from a RX1 @72# 27” DL

Shoot it