Ilf limb tiller

[bisblue]

Hey folks just curious if anyone else has riser/ilf limbs that don't have even tiller. I have two sets of limbs, both are .5" higher tiller on the top limb. 6.5" top limb, 6" bottom limb on one set. 6.75" top 6 3/8" on bottom for the second set...

Edit: both measurements are taken with limb bolts all the way down then backed out one quarter turn.

One set is uukha irbis, one set are Morrison max 4s

 

[Trey Arentz]

Sounds like your riser limb bolts aren’t turned out or in the same amount. You can just turn those in and out to get your even tiller.

 

[bisblue]

Sounds like your riser limb bolts aren’t turned out or in the same amount. You can just turn those in and out to get your even tiller.

I'll fix the original post. Those numbers are taken with both limb bolts turned all the way in and then backed out a quarter of a turn.

 

[GLB]

Sounds like the limb butts are different thickness. You should be able to work that out by adjusting the limb bolts to get the tiller you want.

 

[Beendare]

Delete

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[bisblue]

Its common on all of my ILF risers for them not to be at even tiller when turned in the same.

I shoot 3 under.
I run my limbs even tiller, sometimes with a tiny bit more length on the bottom limb- 1/8”.

One limb will typically have as much as 1 turn more out than the other to get even tiller.
It usually doesn’t take much, sometimes only 1/2 turn different ( with my Uukhas)

This tiller will change your nokking point. The bottom edge of my upper nok is usually right about 3/8” above square, with a 1/4” gap between noks. This gives me the best arrow flight…but play with it as you will know the right setting when you find it.

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Thanks, these Irbis limbs wanted 2 full turns off the bottom to get even tiller.

These are the perfect draw weight, so going to get them tuned up and shooting well.

My goal is to get a bow that shoots good and I can basically just shoot it and the same arrows forever. Hoping to have something that I can shoot bears, deer, and elk here in Central Idaho.

 

[oldgoat]

Well, I'll tell you this, when you get it all dialed in, buy as many of those arrows as you can afford, cause just when you find some you really like, they will change something like the length they come or discontinue them all together etc! 2 of the toughest arrow models I ever shot, one they started selling them 2" shorter and the other they discontinued!

 

[bisblue]

Well, I'll tell you this, when you get it all dialed in, buy as many of those arrows as you can afford, cause just when you find some you really like, they will change something like the length they come or discontinue them all together etc! 2 of the toughest arrow models I ever shot, one they started selling them 2" shorter and the other they discontinued!

Will do, Of all the arrows I was shooting the Easton Axis 300s that I was shooting out of my compound ended up being the best thing off the Morrison limbs.
If I have to go down a step in spine I might try some of the black eagle instincts.
Shooting a 31-in draw doesn't leave a lot of extra arrow for aiming off of.

 

[oldgoat]

Will do, Of all the arrows I was shooting the Easton Axis 300s that I was shooting out of my compound ended up being the best thing off the Morrison limbs.
If I have to go down a step in spine I might try some of the black eagle instincts.
Shooting a 31-in draw doesn't leave a lot of extra arrow for aiming off of.

I shoot the instincts off my lighter Whistler for the 31" draw reason, really didn't care for their Outsert, shaft seemed to break pretty easy right at the back of them and I had been warned about that so I only used a half dozen to figure out tune etc then bought ethics Insert Outsert system for the other dozen and a half, also replaced all the nocks with Bohning nocks because Black Eagle nocks leave a lot to be desired in mine and a lot of other people's opinion.

 

[nevadabugle]

Another good trick is to switch the bottom and top limbs. This will tell you if its the riser with the difference or the limbs. I would bet its the limbs as some makers, even with ILF will build some tiller in.

Also, it will have no ill effect to run the top on the bottom, if that gets your bolts closer to even. Play around with this and see. The bow does not care which limb is which.

If it doesn't work for some reason, you can always switch them back.

 

[bisblue]

Another good trick is to switch the bottom and top limbs. This will tell you if its the riser with the difference or the limbs. I would bet its the limbs as some makers, even with ILF will build some tiller in.

Also, it will have no ill effect to run the top on the bottom, if that gets your bolts closer to even. Play around with this and see. The bow does not care which limb is which.

If it doesn't work for some reason, you can always switch them back.

That's actually really good because it was fairly close to even when I accidentally put the top limb on the bottom.

I didn't think there'd be an issue but with was such fancy limbs I didn't want to mess them up.

 

[nevadabugle]

That's actually really good because it was fairly close to even when I accidentally put the top limb on the bottom.

I didn't think there'd be an issue but with was such fancy limbs I didn't want to mess them up.

I think that I may know you @bisblue . This is Chris with TAN. Aren't you our member that just moved from Las Vegas?

 

[bisblue]

I think that I may know you @bisblue . This is Chris with TAN. Aren't you our member that just moved from Las Vegas?

Yep that's me, we just moved to Cascade ID.

Is there another 3D shoot planned?

 

[nevadabugle]

Yes. Sir. We will be finalizing the Dates for the Traditional Archers of Nevada 3-d Shoot and Gathering in the next week or so. But looking like MAy 20-23. Same location as last year. Good to hear from you buddy. Cheers!

 

[Justin.Medcalf]

I am currently shooting a set of Uukha S-curve Selengas. They are not even tiller on my Satori when limb bolts are even. I have about a 1/8 positive tiller with bolts even. Which is fine for me because I shoot them three under with 3/16 positive tiller. For some reason how I draw the bow makes positive tiller give me better tuning results even with my springy. It is also noticeably more quite when properly tillered for me.

 

[Kentucky]

Tiller is a a form based adjustment each archer will have to figure for themselves.. and like JM says you bow will tune better and be more quiet when you have it.

On my DAS gen2 I’m 1/16” negative with 5/16” to bottom of top nocking point, shooting off a springy.. 52# 550g arrow, inno ex primes, shooting lasers..