Is my arrow build ok for elk?

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Looking for some input on my arrow set up. It's what I use for whitetail and hoping it will be acceptable for elk. Anything else I need to consider?

Maxima Hunter 350
Spine .337
Length 33" (32" draw length)
Broadhead weight: 100 grains
Draw weight: 60lbs
Total arrow weight: 415 grains

Appreciate any input!
 
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I have wounded and killed elk with similar setup. The ones I wounded I didn’t hit the soft spot behind the shoulder. I hit the shoulder with a montec that probably wasn’t sharp enough or it broke in 2007.

I went to a heavier arrow about 520 grains for both elk and deer and I make sure my broad heads are sharp. Haven’t had trouble with penetration. Killed a bull quartering too in 2017 went into shoulder and out the opposite rear quarter. He went about 100 yards.

If you stick with your current arrow, don’t hit major bone and it will work.
 
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Kbhillhunter
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I have wounded and killed elk with similar setup. The ones I wounded I didn’t hit the soft spot behind the shoulder. I hit the shoulder with a montec that probably wasn’t sharp enough or it broke in 2007.

I went to a heavier arrow about 520 grains for both elk and deer and I make sure my broad heads are sharp. Haven’t had trouble with penetration. Killed a bull quartering too in 2017 went into shoulder and out the opposite rear quarter. He went about 100 yards.

If you stick with your current arrow, don’t hit major bone and it will work.

Interestingly enough the broadhead I'm using is a montec. If I up the weight of the arrow should I consider increasing draw weight as well?
 

Elkhntr08

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Used to shoot the Maxima Reds. Switched to FMJ and never looked back. Got a shorter arrow than you, but my weight is 495.
 

Greenmachine_1

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The short answer is probably yes.

The long answer is that it depends. With your draw, and draw weight, you likely have enough steam to go through an elk assuming you are using a quality broadhead and your shot is accurate.

You didn't mention what bow you are using and that could play into it some (you want decent momentum and kinetic energy) and if you're using a stick bow, I'd think you have better luck with a heavier arrow with more point weight.

Now my completely biased opinion, I'd up the point weight and use a heavier GPI arrow and try to get a 500+ grain arrow shooting above 260 fps. Shoot the crap out of it at distance as much as you can and use it all of the time. Heavier arrows tend to help quiet a bow and retain more kinetic energy.

Your current arrow should work fine and I'm not saying you should switch. I just think that you want to switch and are looking for opinions/excuses to switch.

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MattB

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If you follow the old Easton chart which I think has some merit, that is a really light arrow for that draw length.
 

406unltd

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I’d mainly try to keep my speed around 265-280. Also have a Broadhead that’s more of a cut on contact. Not a must for either but if those were my specs that’s what I’d try do be putting out of my weapon. Good luck
 
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I can't say it won't work but personally I think a big consideration should be cut on contact or expandable. If your on a strict budget it'll probably do. If your not talk to your pro shop about pushing up towards 500 total.
 

87TT

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I shoot 30.5" 300 spine arrows with a 50 gr insert and 125 gr head for a total of 500 gr...….now. I shot my first elk with 29" 340 spine with standard insert and 100 gr head for around 420gr total. I lost that elk with a marginal shot (High and back) . The elk died. I found him a week later. I now have a sign over my work bench. " NO EXCUSES". There is no excuse for marginal equipment, practice, or anything else.
 
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Your arrow isn't too light, but since it's a mile long (jealous guy with a short draw length) it would be easy to increase the weight. With your draw length getting close to 500 grains, while maintaining plenty of speed should be easy. I'm guessing the general consensus on here will be to shoot the heaviest arrow possible and keep your speed between 250-280fps, so it tunes easy with fixed blades and your pin gaps are pretty tight. Any heavier arrow is going to give you more penetration over your current arrow, if the elk isn't perfectly broadside you are going to want every extra inch you can get!
 

bignocks

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Im shooting a 500 gr arrow currently and some of the benefits are penetrations goes up due to the weight and it quiets the bow down. You will lose speed going heavier which some people dont like having bigger pin gaps and less margin for error if you guess yardage and you're off by a few. Im sure tons of elk have been killed with less than youre setup so it depends how deep down the rabbit hole you want to go and how confident you are in shooting a specific setup. Good luck and happy shooting
 

bignocks

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Another thought as long as your spine isnt too weak to add weight heres a couple options. Use Wraps and 4 fletch, nockternals, and 125 grain or heavier heads. All of those are easy ways to bump the weight but you need to do some homework on your arrow spine.
 
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Kbhillhunter
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This is all great feedback, really appreciate it. Definitely not concerned about switching my set up if I need to. The only issue ive had is that arrow selection see to drop off for the length I need.
 

fatlander

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You’re probably fine if you make a good shot.

Personally, I’d try to get your arrow weight up which would get your speed down to a better range. I spit balled some numbers not knowing the IBO speed of your bow but you’re probably pushing that arrow 310-315 FPS. Most people, myself included, like to be around 280 FPS if you can. That’s the about the perfect speed for optimal tuning and manageable pin gaps while still scooting along pretty good.

You could get that arrow weight up 100 grains and be around 280. Have you tried to tune that arrow yet? Seems to me at a DL as long as yours, you’ll be underspined and even if you’re not, you’d struggle to get fixed heads to fly at that high speed.


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Kbhillhunter
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You’re probably fine if you make a good shot.

Personally, I’d try to get your arrow weight up which would get your speed down to a better range. I spit balled some numbers not knowing the IBO speed of your bow but you’re probably pushing that arrow 310-315 FPS. Most people, myself included, like to be around 280 FPS if you can. That’s the about the perfect speed for optimal tuning and manageable pin gaps while still scooting along pretty good.

You could get that arrow weight up 100 grains and be around 280. Have you tried to tune that arrow yet? Seems to me at a DL as long as yours, you’ll be underspined and even if you’re not, you’d struggle to get fixed heads to fly at that high speed.


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That's exactly what happens when I tune for broadheads, it's way off. That's in part what sent me down this path.
 
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I didn't think they even made Maxima's out to 33".

If you can put your broadhead where you want you can kill elk with that setup fine. But if you have that long of a draw I'd definitely shoot a heavier arrow. I'm a little different than most here as I still like to be around 290 fps. Several times I haven't had the chance to range the exact yardage. I know it's not much difference in 280 and 290 but I still like a little more speed.

I'd look to increase your spine and overall arrow weight if I were in your shoes, as long as I stayed above 275 fps.

Edit: I looked it up and the Maxima hunters are 32.5". So I'm guessing your 33" includes the nock? And your gpi is way off. Maxima hunter 350 shafts are 8.9 gpi
 
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Kbhillhunter
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I didn't think they even made Maxima's out to 33".

If you can put your broadhead where you want you can kill elk with that setup fine. But if you have that long of a draw I'd definitely shoot a heavier arrow. I'm a little different than most here as I still like to be around 290 fps. Several times I haven't had the chance to range the exact yardage. I know it's not much difference in 280 and 290 but I still like a little more speed.

I'd look to increase your spine and overall arrow weight if I were in your shoes, as long as I stayed above 275 fps.

Believe they are 32.5 uncut and 33 from the nock

Real stupid question here, but when you say go up in spine, does that mean more, or less rigidity? If I understand it correctly, the lower the spine number the stiffer the arrow?
 
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Believe they are 32.5 uncut and 33 from the nock

Real stupid question here, but when you say go up in spine, does that mean more, or less rigidity? If I understand it correctly, the lower the spine number the stiffer the arrow?


It means to go lower on the spine deflection number. In the case of Maxima's it would be to go to a 450 (roughly .298 spine) but most all other manufacturers the numbers get smaller meaning a stiffer spine or less deflection (more rigidity).


I'd be looking at a 450 Maxima hunter, or 300 gold tip, black eagle, Easton. Not saying those are the best, just giving you a reference. That's if you stick with your current setup. If you start changing other components (tip weight) your probably going to need heavier spine to help with your broadhead tuning.

If you provide some information on your bow it's easier to figure some of this stuff out.
 
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Some good advice here as to arrow weight.

Question: When you draw your bow, where does the front of the insert align on your bow? In front of the shelf? How far?

I just built a set of arrows for a guy that's 32 and I just left them uncut and squared the ends. He's still got a little bit of carbon past the shelf on his bow. If you have a wandering/lazy index finger and shoot fixed blades this might be an issue for you...but at that point its a grip issue and not an equipment safety issue. I shoot even with or inside the shelf and have no issues. It will all depend on your bow geometry and grip but I have to imagine you can build an uncut 32 and still be good. At that point you have a ton more shaft options.
 

5MilesBack

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I shoot at 32 1/2" draw. I shot a bull one year with a Maxima Hunter 350 at 60lbs, but the arrow weighed 445gr at 30" and a 125gr Wac'em Exit on the end. I think my speed was right around 276fps..........slow bow. It was a hard quartering away shot that buried into the offside shoulder. It was also a long shot. At a minimum I'd use a 125gr head and probably lop some inches off that arrow to stiffen it up.

These days I shoot 75lbs with a 30 inch 520gr arrow at 296fps. It works.

Also, I'd re-check your arrow weight. My Maxima Hunters were 10gr heavier than you listed yours at, even with 100gr heads. But mine are 2.5" ctc shorter. Something isn't adding up.
 
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