Kifarucast w/ Gillingham

[robby denning]

I started watching the videos.

Here’s #1 of 11

If I understand him, he puts paper-tuning importance at the the top above bare-shaft, walk-back, group tuning.

And he likes 5yds for paper, about double of what I’ve been doing.

Looking forward to his “super tuning”


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[Trial153]

I agree with Tim on a few things and disagree on quite a few as well........

 

[robby denning]

Here’s #2 of 11

For super tuning, his steps are

1) Powder check for drop away clearance

2) Paper at 5yds

3) Dynamic Spine Tune (super Important but doesn’t cover the how, yet)

4) Broadhead Tuning

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[robby denning]

Here’s #3 of 11

How to correct a left tear

He’s a little over my head on the cable guard and wheel spacing, but I see what he means. I’ve only ever moved the rest right.

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[robby denning]

#4 of 11

Correcting a right tear

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[robby denning]

#5 of 11

How to correct a high tear

This is way beyond just moving my rest!

And #6 of 11 for the low tear

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[robby denning]

Now he’s getting into the nitty of paper-tuning and knock-tuning
#7 of 11

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[robby denning]

Here’s #8 of 11

Dynamic Spine Tuning. Pretty much over my head now but I believe!

Who’s doing this step?


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[5MilesBack]

Tim shoots 315-325 fps a lot of the time. 280: "I'd never shoot that slow"

He must be shooting the Velocity Pro's to be shooting those speeds. I have some 380gr Victory HV's that I shoot at 330+, but they're hard on the bow at those weights with my draw length. But they do shoot great at 100 yards. I've had multiple 2" groups with those things. I've never tried the Velocity arrows. They'd come in a little slower as they're almost 2gpi heavier.

 

[robby denning]

#9 of 11
Tuning Broadheads

I never even thought about length of field points vs Broadheads, only weight.

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[5MilesBack]

Here’s #8 of 11

Dynamic Spine Tuning. Pretty much over my head now but I believe!

Who’s doing this step?

I do that step.........except with fixed blade BH's and actual shooting at 40-60 yards.....so that every arrow shoots that same head to the same place, by turning nocks. That's one thing I like about 4-fletch........it's gives me one extra possible tuning spot on each arrow to get it perfect, over 3 fletch. He's just more of a paper guy, but it should get you to the same end result either way. I've always shot the Saunders Combination points because they're longer than some points to help simulate BH length.

Thanks for posting these videos.........they're perfect length for my attention span.

 

[robby denning]

#10 of 11
Point Weight and Spine

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[robby denning]

I do that step.........except with fixed blade BH's and actual shooting at 40-60 yards.....so that every arrow shoots that same head to the same place, by turning nocks. That's one thing I like about 4-fletch........it's gives me one extra possible tuning spot on each arrow to get it perfect, over 3 fletch. He's just more of a paper guy, but it should get you to the same end result either way. I've always shot the Saunders Combination points because they're longer than some points to help simulate BH length.

Ok. One more reason for me to try 4-fletch.


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[robby denning]

And finally #11 of 11

Tuning in the field.

And he made it through all 11 without picking up a bow.

Lots to think about here for me.

Glad I watched them. Reminds me how much I don’t know.


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[camping1601]

I had

Why would you disagree with that? If I can hear an arrow, I know they can. Just stand someplace safe downrange near the target and have a buddy shoot an arrow at 100 yards or so. You can bet your britches that you can hear that arrow coming........I can.

A friend of mine did this to get a perspective on how load my bow was. He said the noise from my bow was nothing compared to the sound of my arrow coming his way. This was with Blazers.

 

[307]

When it comes to the modern compound bow and associated equipment Tim Gillingham is pretty much as good as it gets. I really don't see how anybody would question his authority. Even the best competition guys will call Tim when they have a problem that they can't sort out on their own.

When it comes to living in the backcountry I think Aaron is at a very high level of expertise, but when it comes to modern compound archery I think Tim is on an entirely different level well beyond Aaron Snyder.

 

[nphunter]

I do that step.........except with fixed blade BH's and actual shooting at 40-60 yards.....so that every arrow shoots that same head to the same place, by turning nocks. That's one thing I like about 4-fletch........it's gives me one extra possible tuning spot on each arrow to get it perfect, over 3 fletch. He's just more of a paper guy, but it should get you to the same end result either way. I've always shot the Saunders Combination points because they're longer than some points to help simulate BH length.

Thanks for posting these videos.........they're perfect length for my attention span.

So do you run all 1 color vane? Seems hard to orient if that’s the case. I suppose you could do this mark the shaft and then refletch.

 

[robby denning]

So do you run all 1 color vane? Seems hard to orient if that’s the case. I suppose you could do this mark the shaft and then refletch.

I was wondering that too, so when you knock and arrow, couldn’t you be 180° off unless you marked one of the vanes?


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[HonkeyMcGee88]

On my last set of arrows the nocks had a small line on one side that wasnt on the other.

I used that as a reference of I needed to nock tune. A simple sharpie mark would work great too.

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[Brendan]

I haven't watched Tim's videos (yet). But pretty sure he shoots every arrow as a bare shaft, turns nocks until they all fly and hit perfectly as bare shafts, marks/indexes the arrow, and then fletches. At least I've heard him say that before and what I'd think he means by dynamic spine tuning. Probably re-verified by shooting groups after they're fletched.

Paper tuning and bare shaft tuning will do the same thing in my mind. If you have a left tear, you'll see the bare shaft tail left and point hitting right in the target. I just went to the range with a new bow this week. Things looked good in the basement at 7 yards. Bare shafts still hitting with field points at 20 yards. Bare shafts consistently hitting 6" right at 30 yards. If I'd thrown a broadhead on and shot - it would have been hitting right of my field points.

For a left tear, you have a bunch of options as opposed to just the rest. Assuming you don't have fletching / rest contact:

• Broadhead hitting right is the same as bare shafts hitting right or a tail left tear.
• Tighten Left Yoke (Need a press, if your bow has yokes)
• Loosen Right Yoke (Need a press, if your bow has yokes)
• Rest Right
• Spine too Weak (Maybe, maybe not)
• Shim Cam(s)/Wheels to the Left (Need a press and to remove the cams)
• Crank flex guard out for less sideways string pressure / less string clearance.