Kinda new to trad bows

wilson.1968

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Feb 29, 2016
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I have a bear 50 # grizzly I'm getting ready to buy some arrows for according to some spine charts I'm right at 400 to 340. Would I be better off joining with one over the other. I draw about 29 inches and have been shooting 125 gr Bh with 50 gr inserts goldtip carbon shafts and I believe the are too stiff. I'm new to tunning but a bare shaft shoots with the knock kicked over to the right.
Any help or opinion would be greatly appreciated
 

tater

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Dec 9, 2012
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Nock right is stiff. I would think 340's are too stiff. I would guess 400s left full length to start with the 175gr up front, and then slowly cut down shaft 1/4" at a time. Carbons respond to shaft length and point weight a lot differently than wood or aluminum does.

The ony other option would be to bump point weight on what you have by 50grain increments.

The one thing to bear in mind being a new shooter is that bareshafting is incredibly sensitive to form and release. I have seen more than one "stiff shaft" situation actually be a "poor release/arrow contacting riser/false stiff" situation.

If you don't have really solid form, bareshafting can become a crazy frustrating experience.
 
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wilson.1968

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I only have a few arrows left in my inventory so I was needing to get more. When I started researching I never knew there was so much to tuning your bow with arrows. So after reading thread after thread of what other have used it either matched the charts or didn't. I don't really want to buy several arrows if I don't have too but I want to get it right.
 

Beendare

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Thats some good advice from Tater.

I wouldn't worry about tuning now....like Tater said perfect your form. Once you start shooting consistent groups...then fine tune it. You should be able to make the 400's work pretty easy with a little fiddling....

My bow at 30" draw and 50# shoots a 400 spine arrow with std insert and 125 gr head. If I load up the tip weight with 225gr...I have to go to 340's.
 

JD619er

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Dec 16, 2016
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I'm relatively new to traditional archery as well but I've been taught more to bareshaft plane as a new shooter rather than tune by which way the nick is kicking because that can be easily affected by poor form. I would fletch a couple arrows and shoot those with your bareshafts. If the vareshaft is grouping eighth of the fletched shafts then your shafts are weak are if they are grouping right they are stiff. You can then make small adjustments to your arrow length, or point weight until you get them grouping together.
 

DWinVA

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Jun 17, 2014
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Lancaster Archery has been my new friend when it comes to setting up new arrows for my recurve. They sale individual shafts so I bought some of each spine which really helps. Is your bow spec'd 50 lbs at 28" or do you actually know you are drawing 50 lbs at 29"? If it's [email protected] then you may be pulling closer to 53-54 lbs at 29". Things such as what type of string (Dacron, FF, etc.) can really affect arrow spine with a trad bow. If you're really new to the stickbow I would suggest shooting what you currently have for several weeks until you know your form is solid then start trying to find your perfect arrow recipe. I've used bareshaft, paper tuning, etc to come close but since I'm a hunter my passing grade on an arrow setup is that my broadheads and field points shoot the same.

For a frame of reference I shoot a Predator recurve with FF string, 27 lbs @ 28" and I draw right at 29". My latest arrow recipe is full length 340 Easton Axis Traditionals with double brass inserts up front and a 150 grain point. They weigh just over 600 grains, fly really well and hit hard.

Good luck and God Bless.
 
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wilson.1968

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Feb 29, 2016
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North central missouri
Ill look into getting a few shafts from Lancaster.
My current arrows were golf tip trad 300 . My string is fast flight Flemish I believe.
Thanks for the input
 

tater

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Dec 9, 2012
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300's are 75/95 in a GoldTip Trad. Too stiff a shaft for a 50# bow, especially if they are any less than full length and have less than 300 grains up front.

Fletching is a personal choice. If you have well tuned arrows you can get away with less helical. Smaller diameter shafts will dictate amount of offset you can use with certain jigs.

I like maximum offset and helical (i do lose some speed, but the tradeoff is stable flight with any broadhead i use).
 

Superkodiak38

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Sep 18, 2016
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Ill look into getting a few shafts from Lancaster.
My current arrows were golf tip trad 300 . My string is fast flight Flemish I believe.
Thanks for the input

Call and talk to any of the "techxperts" in you can talk to John Wert, but they all have a lot of knowledge. I was just up there last week to pick up my new Titan III , John set me up and bareshafted to get it all right. You won't be disappointed with the products or the people.
 
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