Kitchen Sink Tuning

Moose Drool

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I am going through the kitchen sink tuning method and need a little clarification.

This is how I have everthing set right now.

Rest height is even with center of berger hole.
Center of rest is 13/16 inch from the inside edge of the riser.
Bottom edge of Nock is 1/8 inch high.
Using a QAD ultra rest on a hoyt carbon element.

Nuts and bolts says nock height should be level with rest for drop aways, but QAD website says 1/8 inch high for Hoyt's. Which do you guys use?

Is rest height supposed to be at the center of the berger hole or even with the bottom?

Any help is appreciated. Thanks
 

JNDEER

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My QAD did not do well on my element (non-rkt).

I had to switch to a ripcord. Currently while the arrow sits on my bow I am a little low of berger (by this I mean the center of the shaft is probably 1/16 to 1/8 low of the center of the berger hole) on the rest and the nock point is a little lower than that. Not sure why it is, but it fits my form and my arrows. When at full draw the arrow is square.
 

jmez

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I have always been told that Hoyt's like to be 1/8 inch nock high. When I was shooting a Matrix is had it 1/8 high. Have it level on my Bowtech.

Your rest should be set so your arrow bisects the middle of the Berber hole when up.
 
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Moose Drool

Moose Drool

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Thanks for the info guys, last night I just set the rest up, checked for fletching clearance, and shot a few fletched and bare shaft arrows last night. So far everything looks good and I haven't made very many adjustments to the rest from where it was before. I thought I may need to make some adjustments to the yoke so I thought I would give the kitchen sink method a try.

I am trying to get my fixed blade broad heads to impact with my field points, but couldn't get it to work by just making rest adjustments doing walk back tuning. Broad heads were impacting high and left of field points past 30 yds.
 

OR Archer

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I always start bows at 1/8" high of center. The bows nock travel will determine if it needs to be set higher providing that the timing is set properly.
 

fire arrow

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Are your cams timed, to start with. If they are not all your work will be a waist if time. With your rest in the ready to shoot position, your arrow should be through the Berger hole. From there an 1/8 high nock point is where to start. I shoot my QAD rest cock vane up. Shoot through some paper and tell us what rip looks like or post a picture. Make sure and shoot through paper 2 or 3 times, since you are new to this. Need to see consistency. And will take it from there.
 
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Moose Drool

Moose Drool

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Is there an easy way to check cam timing without going to a pro shop?
 

fire arrow

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Have someone pull your string while you are watching the draw stops. The draw stops on the top and bottom cam should hit the sametime. Try and draw it slowly. It if you have a draw check board. Most guys don't, so a buddy to help out will work.
 

jmez

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Draw stops hitting at the same time is cam synchronization not cam timing. Cam timing is checked with the bow at rest. Not sure if the RKT cam has timing marks on it? Most cams will have a mark or a hole in them and the cables should both bisect the mark/hole with the bow at rest. When they do it is properly timed. Indicates that both cams are at the same starting position when the bow is drawn.
 

fire arrow

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Draw stops hitting at the same time is cam synchronization not cam timing. Cam timing is checked with the bow at rest. Not sure if the RKT cam has timing marks on it? Most cams will have a mark or a hole in them and the cables should both bisect the mark/hole with the bow at rest. When they do it is properly timed. Indicates that both cams are at the same starting position when the bow is drawn.

Your right there are no timing marks on a RKT cam. Lets get his bow shooting right and worry about the symantics game later.
 

jmez

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Kind of hard to get the bow shooting right if you are timing it at full draw. Not playing a semantics game, they are two different things/concepts and the terms can't be used interchangeably. So takes his bow to the shop and wants it timed and then questions them as to why they are not watching him draw the bow to see where the draw stops are hitting. Now they are both confused because he wants his bow timed and they don't know why he's talking about cam synch.
 
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Moose Drool

Moose Drool

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Not sure if it makes a difference but it is a 2011 and has the fuel cam not the RKT.
 

fire arrow

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I was looking at the fuel cam , picture on Hoyt's page, and didn't see any timing holes. As long as your sting and cables are set to the factory lengths, which I am sure they are your good to go. For got to ask, do you have a bow press. If not you will need one, or just make a trip to your bow shop and and have them check your timing (generic phrase), and change it if needed.
 
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Moose Drool

Moose Drool

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Both draw stops are touching at full draw and I had the wife video tape me drawing the bow, then went back and watched frame by frame and they look like they are both touching at the same time. At rest they are both lined up with the limbs covering the same hole on the top and bottom. I can see the line that my last pro shop drew on the cams to mark that it was in time and the limbs are still lined up with those lines.

Thanks again for all the help, I will have to try and rig up some paper to shoot through.
 

Coyote Commander

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I always start bows at 1/8" high of center. The bows nock travel will determine if it needs to be set higher providing that the timing is set properly.

+1

Providing everything is in spec on the bow, I let the bow tell me in the end how everything should align. "Recommended" settings are just the starting point, I adjust from there if needed until perfect arrow flight is achieved. Once thats achieved, if something is seriously out of whack (way off centershot, or way nock high or low), I go back and check bow specs and arrow related specs (spine, length, etc).
 

c5mrr270

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Since you are shooting a carbon element 1/8" nock high is a good place to start. As far as checking sync I do it myself using a large mirror. I just stand in front of the mirror and draw the bow back, once its back I creep forward a little watching the stops. On your bow you probably want the draw stop on the top cam hitting just a hair before the stop on the bottom cam.
 

Lukem

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I've always done the cam sync with a good hook in my garage ceiling. Just pull down and you can look as close as you want to make sure they're hitting the same. Also makes it a lot easier to move back and forth through the draw with both hands on the bow. Hard to tell and 1/8 difference on video or in a mirror IMO.
 
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