Knife steel......

Beendare

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Steel test
Lots of “What is the best knife? “ Threads.
Its all about the steel and rockwell for a processing knife.

Above is an interesting article comparing 48 current popular knife steels. Then if you click through this site....there are many good articles for knifemakers on proper heat treating, etc.


If you are a Havalon guy....you won’t like it. Grin...its more of a knife nerd thing.


If you have seen another good test on knife steels...post them up

——-
 

GotDraw?

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Steel test
Lots of “What is the best knife? “ Threads.
Its all about the steel and rockwell for a processing knife.

Above is an interesting article comparing 48 current popular knife steels. Then if you click through this site....there are many good articles for knifemakers on proper heat treating, etc.


If you are a Havalon guy....you won’t like it. Grin...its more of a knife nerd thing.


If you have seen another good test on knife steels...post them up

——-

I have known Larrin for over 10 years, he has a PhD in metallurgy and is a knife steel genius. I would take any thing he says straight to the bank. Dude knows his steel and heat treatments.

His dad makes phenomenal chef knives.

JL
 
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Geeeezus....that was in-depth. Bout the only thing I could process and take away was anything over 400 grit is only for YouTube followers and a semi waste of time?

You get that out if it?
 

sndmn11

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I'm dying for the Zmax Mule to come out. If a guy were a "smart" backcountry hunter looking for a lightweight blade, he should be sleeping outside the Spydie store.
 
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I'm dying for the Zmax Mule to come out. If a guy were a "smart" backcountry hunter looking for a lightweight blade, he should be sleeping outside the Spydie store.
Let me know if you see that get released. I think that’s exactly what I’m after. Lightweight and not a throw away knife like my outdoor edge.
 
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Beendare

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Geeeezus....that was in-depth. Bout the only thing I could process and take away was anything over 400 grit is only for YouTube followers and a semi waste of time?

You get that out if it?
Not necessarily.

If you look through the rest of his stuff he emphasizes that the edge can be tailored to your specific needs in regards to sharpening.
For example, some steels cut better in these tests with the gritty edge of a 400 stone.....but they might hold an edge longer with less chance of carbide loss with a more polished edge.

I think the key takeaway for a processing knife is edge holding referenced against toughness.

So lets say you do a lot of digging in against bones and are pretty hard on your knives....something like 3v steel will actually be better than the more expensive and better edge holding of the S110v.


Also, a guy has to consider that some of the carbides in these super steels can be harder than your avg Arkansas stone....so you need the right stones or diamonds to sharpen them.


No perfect answer for everyone.....

—-
 

sndmn11

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Let me know if you see that get released. I think that’s exactly what I’m after. Lightweight and not a throw away knife like my outdoor edge.

The biggest downside to a steel let me that and why it might not be a good match for some folks is that it could be considered brittle. That article goes into good detail about how uper steels like 110v, Maxamet, rex, etc. all hold an edge well, but are less tough. They would be more prone to failure if twisted popping joints, or batoning, or really anything other than slicing. As a skinner and meat processor they would be outstanding, and care around bone would be a good idea. I'd have no qualms personally about using it and sticking to the having in joints.

Cruwear, PD1, 4v.... those steels that sit in the middle of those toughness charts and middle of edge retention, COULD be better choices as a do all. Everything really is a compromise. I have two PD1 Mules that I have been holding back for special builds, and am having some s90v skinners made currently.
 
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Beendare

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https://knifeinformer.com/discovering-the-best-knife-steel/

After reading the attached article, I purchased a new blade last summer in CPM S35VN.
That is a good article....and pretty much jibes with my experience using 4 or 5 of those steels for processing/hunting knives.

S30V is great steel....but the S90v in my Altitude and Spyderco folder hold an edge much longer. The S30v in my Steep country is much easier to sharpen than the S90v.

——
 

feanor

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Thanks for sharing the article. Love some deep dives into steel. It’s fun to see new developments in steel, but also fun looking back to the fundamentals.
 

Marbles

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Kobuk

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I own a few of the super steel knives. A couple things that I've noticed while skinning and breaking down moose and caribou compared to standard blades are the edge retention. I can go all season with out touching the blade and that could be anywhere from no animals to 4. I'm not doing any solo so there are other knives helping but not having to stop and sharpen like my buddies is nice. Anyone who has messed with moose hide knows how thick and tough that is, and caribou is no slouch. I use the Edge Pro apex with diamond stones to sharpen and they sharpen almost as easy as standard steel with regular stones. It doesn't work very well using standard stones on M390, etc. I carry the drill dr field sharpener which has the diamond plates but haven't used it. One of my buddies also has it and really likes it for his buck knife with standard steel. Really, anything will work and has for many years. I just like to geek out now and then with my sharpeners and playing with some of the high carbide steels turns my crank!
 
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That is a good article....and pretty much jibes with my experience using 4 or 5 of those steels for processing/hunting knives.

S30V is great steel....but the S90v in my Altitude and Spyderco folder hold an edge much longer. The S30v in my Steep country is much easier to sharpen than the S90v.

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that's what i don't like about S90v, totally sucks to sharpen, especially in the field, and my altitude won't stay as sharp as i like through a whole elk.... can i get through a whole elk with it? yeah, but it's not super sharp on the second half, and that steel is not very receptive to in field touch ups.

the AUS-10v on the Dalstrong Shogun series knives is my very favorite, and makes for a beautiful and functional blade steel. i have a friend who got into knife building, and he does custom handles, i think i will have him put a handle on my 4" Dalstrong that is more well suited for cutting up critters... that steel holds an edge really well, but you can keep it touched up and razor sharp the whole time you are breaking down an elk, and don't need to touch it up on a deer.
 

5MilesBack

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That's interesting. I used to shave using shaving cream in front of the mirror every time, and I'd get about 5-6 shaves out of a blade before needing to change it. Then I started shaving in the shower, just using soap. My blades started lasting for months doing that. I figured the shaving cream companies (i.e. the ones making the blades) were using some sort of dulling compounds in the cream.........and perhaps they are. But my blades currently stay wetter in the shower than they ever did sitting on the counter next to the sink.

I use a Havalon and my S30V fixed blade knife. The knife will easily break down a big bull on its own and still slice paper, which is all I expect out of a knife. I carry and use the Havalon now as well, so the knife can be used on multiple animals before resharpening.
 
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Beendare

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I love S90v as it holds a sharp edge through multiple animals.

when breaking down animals in the field and boning them out I’m typically in a hurry or under a time constraint. The last thing I want to do is stop to sharpen my knife. With the S90v I don’t have to do that. ( I never really had to do that with S 30 V either)

It is a lot harder steel but it’s a piece of cake to sharpen with my edge pro.
 
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I’ve owned several of the top end steel knives. Still comes down to form.

Current use is North arm knives Lynx for a skinner and breaking down an animal, their Mallard B&T for caping and detail work. Both are fairly light and S35VN. No reason to go lighter unless really counting ounces. Then I just take the B&T as the primary blade.
Great form for a field dress knife, best kydex work I’ve ever seen, price is good (about half of similar offerings from Benchmade and others).
I almost fret telling folks cause I don’t want to let the cat out the bag.
They’ve made the working mans knife forms, B&T, skinner, boning, fillet from S35VN for several years.
Make you shake your head at the highly marketed $300 versions of the same.
 
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