LiteOutdoors Ti Stove W/ Baffle Problems

[Pn8hall]

My LO stove has a damper with it as well from them. Why do you recommend to not use the baffle Reaper? I can tell a difference in burn time if I take it out. I totally get that these are not airtight and you cant treat them like a woodstove at home. I usually start a fire with small twigs, get the body and pipe heated up and then slowly start adding larger pieces in til it gets going good. I dont have any screens in it to get blocked up. I have played around with filling it about halfway up to plum full of wood. It definitely does not like it when you cram it full of wood especially with the baffle. I will say that I have never really messed with the pipe damper to adjust things. I usually just play with the door damper. It really is so easy to either get to much or not enough air in the damn thing. Fire will either get choked out or start chugging smoke back in the tipi. There just doesnt seem to be enough middle ground in the adjustment at least with the door damper. Sounds like a need to play around with the pipe damper as well based on some of the comments above.

 

[ScottP]

I also kind of ditched the baffle. I got it working well on burn-in, after one huff and puff session with some adjustment to airflow. But second time I put the stove together it seemed like the pipe was too close to the baffle and choking out the airflow. So I've just been running baffle free at end of last season. If anyone does come up with a mod or solution, love to hear it.

 

[reaper]

My LO stove has a damper with it as well from them. Why do you recommend to not use the baffle Reaper? I can tell a difference in burn time if I take it out. I totally get that these are not airtight and you cant treat them like a woodstove at home. I usually start a fire with small twigs, get the body and pipe heated up and then slowly start adding larger pieces in til it gets going good. I dont have any screens in it to get blocked up. I have played around with filling it about halfway up to plum full of wood. It definitely does not like it when you cram it full of wood especially with the baffle. I will say that I have never really messed with the pipe damper to adjust things. I usually just play with the door damper. It really is so easy to either get to much or not enough air in the damn thing. Fire will either get choked out or start chugging smoke back in the tipi. There just doesnt seem to be enough middle ground in the adjustment at least with the door damper. Sounds like a need to play around with the pipe damper as well based on some of the comments above.

you just need to play with damper and play with the vent and understand how it works...this baffle i just see peoples saying bad things about it and some peoples doesnt give a good review on the stove beauce of this baffle and i think its not fair...its my opinion and my opinion only.About the damper...i was saying to use a damper set with collar like seekoutside or kifaru it just sit better on the stove and youll not gonna have this wrap on the body from the damper's handle.

 

[reaper]

i just not recommended,you are in the backcountry,you dont need this plus it looks like a pita to install.

 

[ndbuck09]

Bump this up...I'm looking at getting a stove and am curious if anyone had any resolutions to using the LO stove? Or should I just go with a TiGoat Cylinder or the Smith Cylinder?

 

[Vandy321]

Bump this up...I'm looking at getting a stove and am curious if anyone had any resolutions to using the LO stove? Or should I just go with a TiGoat Cylinder or the Smith Cylinder?

I bought one after all this. I've had no issue with or without the baffle. And Brennan's (I think that's his name) customer service is down right awesome.

 

[willfrye027]

Bump this up...I'm looking at getting a stove and am curious if anyone had any resolutions to using the LO stove? Or should I just go with a TiGoat Cylinder or the Smith Cylinder?

I made a copycat TiGoat WiFi and it works a lot better for me than the LO 18in I had. Less finicky to run. My 2 cents

 

[Vandy321]

I made my own TiGoat WiFi and it works a lot better for me than the LO 18in I had. Less finicky to run. My 2 cents

Alright, I'll bite...if you made it yourself, how is it a TiGoat?

 

[willfrye027]

Alright, I'll bite...if you made it yourself, how is it a TiGoat?

Sorry, It’s a copycat. Similar design but my own dimensions

 

[ndbuck09]

ok, so million dollar question...or really $285 question, what cylinder stove is the best? I had thought the LO due to its bigger door but if its hard to deal with??? maybe the TiGoat or Smith are better in that 18-20" range?

 

[generalist]

I've used the 18" LO without baffle (I have it, but it's a hassle to setup in the field) now for maybe 8 nights total with zero issues. I don't try to play with the air intake/exhaust to extend burn times, I open everything open and get her ripping. These stoves don't hold enough wood to last all night, so for me at least, I just use it for bed time to get to sleep easier.

 

[Baron85]

I have a few hours of burning in my 18” LO and have never had it cough and spudder yet. I received the baffle a while ago but have not tried it yet so can’t comment on the baffle.

 

[LiteOutdoors]

I apologize for the delay in this post, as I must of missed the PM from TexasCub. I figured better late than never to address this for anybody who was curious. This issue has been described as chattering, back draft, mini explosions, puffing smoke etc. This occurs more with a baffle, but it can also occur with no baffle as well. What is occurring is a very specific fire behavior, where the fire inside the stove is growing and it starts to become limited by the amount of oxygen entering the stove. Basically, the fire can't get enough air so it dies down slightly. When this happens it allows oxygen to enter the stove and the fire grows quickly, then becomes oxygen limited again and dies again. This starts a cycle of growth and decay, and it happens very fast, multiple times a second. It will chatter the door, and can puff smoke out the front.

This usually happens when the air vent is wide open and the wood you are using is quick burning, like smaller diameter wood. Some people see it every now and then, and some people will never see it, for this to occur multiple things need to come together at the same time so to speak.

So now that we know what causes it, how do we stop it? Its pretty simple, and you have two options. We basically need to stop that cylce. Option 1, crack open the door for a minute or two. This is going to give the fire the air that it is needing. After a minute or two you can close the door again and the fire will burn normally. Option 2, you can close the air vent completely for a few minutes. This is almost like "resetting" the stove. After you close the air vent for a minute or so you can open it back up again and the fire will be burning a lot better. Basically what we are doing here is disrupting that weird cycle which is occurring.

Hopefully that helps clear things up a bit, if anybody has any questions on this feel free to reach out and we can go over it.

 

[FlyGuy]

I apologize for the delay in this post, as I must of missed the PM from TexasCub. I figured better late than never to address this for anybody who was curious. This issue has been described as chattering, back draft, mini explosions, puffing smoke etc. This occurs more with a baffle, but it can also occur with no baffle as well. What is occurring is a very specific fire behavior, where the fire inside the stove is growing and it starts to become limited by the amount of oxygen entering the stove. Basically, the fire can't get enough air so it dies down slightly. When this happens it allows oxygen to enter the stove and the fire grows quickly, then becomes oxygen limited again and dies again. This starts a cycle of growth and decay, and it happens very fast, multiple times a second. It will chatter the door, and can puff smoke out the front.

This usually happens when the air vent is wide open and the wood you are using is quick burning, like smaller diameter wood. Some people see it every now and then, and some people will never see it, for this to occur multiple things need to come together at the same time so to speak.

So now that we know what causes it, how do we stop it? Its pretty simple, and you have two options. We basically need to stop that cylce. Option 1, crack open the door for a minute or two. This is going to give the fire the air that it is needing. After a minute or two you can close the door again and the fire will burn normally. Option 2, you can close the air vent completely for a few minutes. This is almost like "resetting" the stove. After you close the air vent for a minute or so you can open it back up again and the fire will be burning a lot better. Basically what we are doing here is disrupting that weird cycle which is occurring.

Hopefully that helps clear things up a bit, if anybody has any questions on this feel free to reach out and we can go over it.

I can confirm that it is an easy fix. I’ve had it happen to more with the baffle, but I do like the longer burn it gives me. I find choking down the vents pretty tight once the fire is going gives me the best burn w/o the puffing.


You can’t cheat the mountain

 

[cshelbo1]

Alaskan backwoodsmen here.. I have an 18 XL with Baffle and got smoked out first day. It was an easy fix. I simply shaped the baffle down away from the pipe further (about one inch down- visible when you open the door). Now it runs perfect. The baffle is excellent.. it does improve efficiency and I never see embers out the 8 foot stack. I start my fire with birch bark and use twigs, after they go to coal I add wood, always burning down to coals before opening, mainly so there are no ember pops. I have not had any chugging etc. so I think it’s more how your baffles are set in and are probably shaped up instead of slight down concave, probably not allowing a good draft. I’m stoked with the LO.