Longbow hitting to Right

[bpctcb]

Howdy all! Got a head scratcher here & looking for ideas/advice...

I shoot right hand, 30” draw, 3 under. I have 3 Sages/clone recurves in 35, 45 & 55# that I shoot satisfactorily. Shooting full length GT’s (400 & 340) with 400 gr up front. I’ve got these to tune and fly straight here. I use a NAP centerest on these.

This week I got in a Galaxy Ember 50# longbow D97 string (really been wanting to try a shoot off shelf longbow). I’ve been shooting & tuning. I can get good arrow flight (bare shafts) but no matter what I do I consistently group everything to the right. Gets farther right as distance increases. I’ve shot 250, 300, 340, 400, 500 spines with tip weights 125, 200, 250, 300, 400 & cut down shafts as needed. Some of these are way weak or stiff and fly with the usual tail left/right that you would expect. The stiffest setup I shot flew nock right just like a stiff setup should but it still impacted right of target. I started out using Velcro for rug & side plate. I built up the side plate in increments until the shaft was at the edge of the shelf. No matter what I do I just hit right with this bow. I also tried a stick on Hoyt rest. I use 2 nock points and have moved these from 3/8-1” high but nothing helps.

I’m shooting the longbow the same way as recurves: 3 under w/ tab, anchor, gap aiming. I suspect I’m torquing the longbow and I’ve tried various grip methods but everything still hits right. I also thought I might be collapsing at the shot and really focused on executing a good shot. Everything still went to the right.

What am I missing here? Any helpful advice is appreciated.

BP


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[TreeStandAthlete]

Have you shot groups with both fletched and bare shafts? Are they grouping together to the right?

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[bpctcb]

Have you shot groups with both fletched and bare shafts? Are they grouping together to the right?

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I had only shot bare shafts so I went to the shop and compared bare to fletched. Fletched shafts were still right of target but not as much as bare shafts. I shot 400 spine first here.

Backtrack: before any shots I had to put a rest on the bow. Most all of my previous testing was done with Velcro and adjusting the side plate. Today I put on another Hoyt rest as it was handy. Little testing done with this previously.

I grabbed some full length (32”) 340 spine shafts & arrows and got better results than the 400’s. So I tried shorter 30” 340’s with 225 grain up front and finally got very promising results. I’ll test more around this area and feel I can find an arrow that will fly right and hit where I’m aiming.

I think my previous error was doing most all my testing off the shelf; getting bounce perhaps? Gotta do a lot of testing with the elevated Hoyt rest now. Thanks for posting the question and getting my gears turning. I’ve only been shooting traditional for 2 months and it’s quite a journey.

BP


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[GLB]

Two things I can think of assuming arrows are matched/tune with the bow.

1. Bow hand grip- torquing the bow by going from loose grip to firm grip at moment of release.

2. Collapsing at the shot.

Light mass weight bows like most longbows magnify both 1 and 2 when you might get away with shooting heavier mass weight bows such as recurves.

 

[oldgoat]

Had to Google that bow, heard of them but haven't seen one that I know of. You are probably maxing it out for draw length and then shelf looks fairly deeply cut. Being that it's a 3 piece hybrid design and deep cut shelf it's going to tune more like a recurve but will be a lot quieter due to the longbow limbs, guess my point here is, it will need stiffer arrows then you might of thought due to maxing out the limbs and you are probably around 60# draw weight I'd guess at 30". Longbows gain more pounds per inch draw and stack sooner because of limb geometry. There are not many 60" longbow models that can be drawn to 30"without stacking, I'd be real curious to know what the draw weight is at your draw length?

 

[bpctcb]

Had to Google that bow, heard of them but haven't seen one that I know of. You are probably maxing it out for draw length and then shelf looks fairly deeply cut. Being that it's a 3 piece hybrid design and deep cut shelf it's going to tune more like a recurve but will be a lot quieter due to the longbow limbs, guess my point here is, it will need stiffer arrows then you might of thought due to maxing out the limbs and you are probably around 60# draw weight I'd guess at 30". Longbows gain more pounds per inch draw and stack sooner because of limb geometry. There are not many 60" longbow models that can be drawn to 30"without stacking, I'd be real curious to know what the draw weight is at your draw length?

I just checked and it’s 57# at 30”. Definitely not what I need. This would surely make me more prone to collapsing at the shot if I’m over-bowed. I guess I didn’t think this purchase out too well. LOL This will probably be up in the classifieds soon.

BP


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[Sinko]

Sounds crazy but try opening up your stance and having your body more towards the target than to the side.