Longbow vs Recurve Length

bisblue

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Hey folks,
I'm shooting a fancyish ILF with an optimus 2.0 (lots of deflex) 19" riser and Uukha Irbis long limbs. Total bow length 64" #[email protected] DL.

I was debating trying a wood takedown, likely something cheaper just to mess around with this winter. I'm assuming I would want a recurve in the 62" range, would I want the same for a longbow, or can they be run shorter? I had a black hunter as my first bow, but it didn't seem to shoot very smooth or well for me.

Thanks in advance!

Got this ewe with my rifle at 35-45 yards, should have brought the bow, but who knows how it would have worked out. I stopped to turn around and go home for the bow, but only had 4 days and lots of folks had mentioned struggling this year in the unit I drew, so I took my rifle. Second rifle hunt in a row with a shot under 60 yards. Thankful for the great hunt, and quick death, but pretty stoked on taking the recurve from now on.

20211112_163523.jpg
 

GLB

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Generally speaking longbows will normally run longer. It really depends on the design. I almost always follow the bowyers recommendation for bow length matching to draw length.
 

oldgoat

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Short longbows that will handle a long draw usually aren't cheap! Especially if they are built well enough so that they don't unseat the fillings in your teeth when you shoot them! But it would help to know your draw length and what you think is less expensive.
 
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bisblue

bisblue

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Short longbows that will handle a long draw usually aren't cheap! Especially if they are built well enough so that they don't unseat the fillings in your teeth when you shoot them! But it would help to know your draw length and what you think is less expensive.
It doesn't need to be short, I generally shoot 64" bows. I draw 30.75" and would probably only spend a couple hundred bucks, I usually find something used. Just looking to try something different, as my ILF rig shoots well, but almost too fast...
 

oldgoat

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It doesn't need to be short, I generally shoot 64" bows. I draw 30.75" and would probably only spend a couple hundred bucks, I usually find something used. Just looking to try something different, as my ILF rig shoots well, but almost too fast...
That's a pretty long draw, so from my experience with 31" draw, i can't think of a single couple hundred dollar used or not longbow. You could easily shoot a 60" Whistler, but those tend to run in the $550 to $650 range used, Shrews should work but you never see those on the market much and I don't know what they run when they do show up. I've shot 64"whips and they feel like they just don't want to reach mine or your draw length, the 66" whip is a dream to shoot for me though and you see those for maybe slightly cheaper to as much as the Whistlers. I live minutes away from rmsgear and have gotten to try a LOT of different bows with my long draw and the longbows that will handle it are few and far between.
 
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bisblue

bisblue

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That's a pretty long draw, so from my experience with 31" draw, i can't think of a single couple hundred dollar used or not longbow. You could easily shoot a 60" Whistler, but those tend to run in the $550 to $650 range used, Shrews should work but you never see those on the market much and I don't know what they run when they do show up. I've shot 64"whips and they feel like they just don't want to reach mine or your draw length, the 66" whip is a dream to shoot for me though and you see those for maybe slightly cheaper to as much as the Whistlers. I live minutes away from rmsgear and have gotten to try a LOT of different bows with my long draw and the longbows that will handle it are few and far between.
Might just have to stick with the heresy of carbon fiber and metal a while longer lol
 

GLB

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With that draw length you are looking at 64-66” as a min. on a R/D style longbow.
 
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bisblue

bisblue

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With that draw length you are looking at 64-66” as a min. on a R/D style longbow.
Thanks, I might do a recurve as well, just thinking about trying something less fast to be honest and see what it feels like.
 

oldgoat

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Might just have to stick with the heresy of carbon fiber and metal a while longer lol
Yeah, just keep saving and wait for the right deal! And keep the weight low if you get one of the real short ones, they are very very unforgiving of form errors, I have 2 Whistlers, one 40#@28" the other 47#@28" the lighter one is an absolute joy to shoot, the heavier one is just acceptable at my draw, the finger pinch from the sharp string angle of the shorter bow is harder to overcome with heavy draw weights.
 

mattflint

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Ive only put hands on a handful of recurves and longbows in my short time with traditional equipment.
Shot 66” and 64” ilf and das bows at first. All configuration proved comfortable, though I enjoyed the extra deflex of Johns JCA riser and that of the das tribute the most.
I then ended up with a 58” thunderchild longbow. Was a bit less stable when anchored than my metal bows, but believe that is a more to do with the weight loss than anything else. Draw was smooth out to my 31” as best as my limited experience can tell.
Then got into a 60” whistler longbow. It has a bit less reflex and I can feel that in the draw and post shot reaction. Though I still really like this bow I swear that 58” bow was a bit smoother and was absolutely more docile at the shot.
My take on the shorter longbows thus far is that the design plays into how itll handle a long draw as much or more as the length. If I get another short longbow(Im sure I will) Ill be looking at the thunderchild/endeavor/shrew shaped ones as I think theres something to that particular shape that plays well with the longer dl
I think the JK traditions has a 62” of a similar style that is a bit lower priced than some of the fancier bows and folks seem very pleased with his offerings
 
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Thanks, I might do a recurve as well, just thinking about trying something less fast to be honest and see what it feels like.
Check out the Old mountain Mesa at three rivers archery. 64 in reflex deflex bow and it is supposed to be quite the shooter. It will take a 31 inch draw with no problem.
 

Kentucky

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Thanks
I was thinking it would probably be an inexpensive bow.
You can get a 1 piece for 350-500$ that will be as good as most any other R/D longbow… the 2 piece is where you will spend the money..i. Your specs, 3 piece recurve are more common that 2 piece longbows.. what’s your max draw weight?
 
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bisblue

bisblue

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Check out the Old mountain Mesa at three rivers archery. 64 in reflex deflex bow and it is supposed to be quite the shooter. It will take a 31 inch draw with no problem.
That might be the perfect cost!
You can get a 1 piece for 350-500$ that will be as good as most any other R/D longbow… the 2 piece is where you will spend the money..i. Your specs, 3 piece recurve are more common that 2 piece longbows.. what’s your max draw weight?
I'd like to be at 48-50# at my 21" DL.
 
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bisblue

bisblue

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Anyone familiar with the blacktail Columbian? Someone wants to trade me one 64" 45@28" for an ILF set up I was looking at selling.
 

Kentucky

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It would be easier to find you a tire swing and a handful of bananas than a 2 piece longbow for 31” DL for 400$…

I would take a look at Omega longbows.. the bowyer, Kegan, has same DL as you do.. they aren’t the most flashy bows, but they shoot very good and close to your price range..

The black tail bows are pricey. It may be a fair trade, but If you have a bow you like and shoot well, keep it…. It’s way less frustrating to have one you know You like vs trade to an unknown..

my advice is to keep a bow, buy a couple and trade and sell those around until you find what your after.. after 5-6 years I’ve ended up with 3 I love, all other have been moved along.. thing about that is 1 of mine is 250$(. 1 piece recurve) another 400$(1 piece longbow) and one is about 700-900$ ILF.

I shoot my one piece bows well, good enough to consistently hit with at 25 yards, that my confident hunting range. But any archer that has both types of bow, knows that a riser cut past center with a rest, that the groups are tighter and the bow is more forgiving of less than perfect shot over a wood bow off shelf. It’s just easier to achieve a perfect tune…Safe move is keep your ILF and buy something else to mess with.
 
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