Doc Holliday
WKR
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2016
- Messages
- 2,639
What carbon arrows are made in the USA?
Building an elk arrow so looking for something in the 10-11gpi
Building an elk arrow so looking for something in the 10-11gpi
Yeah that's an Easton shaft now too.Here’s another option.
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Yeah that's an Easton shaft now too.
Not always, but for a really long time. I think they may have been French (parent, not necessarily production) initially?Beman has been an Easton shaft for a long time, if not always. Discontinued now. Pretty sure they are relabeled as the 6.5 mm or 6mm line. Whatever they are calling it.
Not always, but for a really long time. I think they may have been French (parent, not necessarily production) initially?
Are they really worth it? I ask because I shoot the regular axis and wondered if I should switch now that I’m getting better. I found 2 out of my last dozen were slightly crooked but I just don’t use them to hunt.Splurge and get the match grade Axis while you're at it.
I killed an antelope, elk, and recently a 2x4 (wood) this year with the same Axis 300 w/50 gr HIT insert. Those arrows are bulletproofAdd a collar or outsert and you'll have the ability to kill multiple animals over several years w the same Axis stick that's made in The United States.
I've built probably five or six dozen regular Axis arrows. Most are usually pretty good but I almost always just cut off of both ends to get rid of any irregularities at the ends. The match grade are just so straight that I never worry about cutting both ends and all the other squaring bs. So to me they're well worth it.Are they really worth it? I ask because I shoot the regular axis and wondered if I should switch now that I’m getting better. I found 2 out of my last dozen were slightly crooked but I just don’t use them to hunt.
I've built probably five or six dozen regular Axis arrows. Most are usually pretty good but I almost always just cut off of both ends to get rid of any irregularities at the ends. The match grade are just so straight that I never worry about cutting both ends and all the other squaring bs. So to me they're well worth it.
You have to get into there actual testing.wouldn’t you just use the little squaring sander that comes with the inserts or an arrow squaring tool? How do the ends not being cut have anything to do with The straightness tolerance?
I spin mine to see if they aren’t straight and always square the ends since cutting is rarely ever clean.