Making my .308 better

[deerkiller]

Depending on brass and powder weight- 2,700+ is easily doable. My competition 308 with 26” barrel is 2,860fps at 70 degrees. Be aware that PP2000 is not temp stable. At 90 degrees it is 2,920fps.


The 308 with 185gr VLD’s or Juggernauts and PP2000 is really a 300WM in performance.

GOOD intel on the temp stability, hadn't realized that - I killed a big adult cow elk with a 185 Juggernaut from my '06 AI last year, I was startled at the impact (in a good way) just not expecting that

 

[Mosby]

I would keep the rifle only if it is accurate. For me that is a rifle that will consistently shoot under 1" moa. I have had factory rifles that will simply not shoot well, regardless of ammo or loads and I trade them in for something else. They will kill game but I personally never keep them. Some are tack drivers though right out of the box.
I would get quality lightweight rings and a Leupold scope and leave it at that. You could have the rings lapped. If it was a wood stock, I would have it glass bedded but I would probably leave the synthetic factory stock alone. Maybe have a gunsmith smooth up the action and adjust the trigger but that is probably it.

 

[deerkiller]

I would keep the rifle only if it is accurate. For me that is a rifle that will consistently shoot under 1" moa. I have had factory rifles that will simply not shoot well, regardless of ammo or loads and I trade them in for something else. They will kill game but I personally never keep them. Some are tack drivers though right out of the box.
I would get quality lightweight rings and a Leupold scope and leave it at that. You could have the rings lapped. If it was a wood stock, I would have it glass bedded but I would probably leave the synthetic factory stock alone. Maybe have a gunsmith smooth up the action and adjust the trigger but that is probably it.

Action "is what it is" and will smooth by itself with use - probably no need to lap the rings, use Talleys or Leupold - I don't think the Ruger comes in a wood stock, might be mistaken - I just bought a Leupold "American Marksman" 3x9x40mm with LR & windplex ret. for less than $200 on ebay (not a knock off, I checked pre purchase) Seems like an OK scope, don't try to "dial" it, for a 300-400 yard rifle it'll be fine

 

[Mosby]

Action "is what it is" and will smooth by itself with use - probably no need to lap the rings, use Talleys or Leupold - I don't think the Ruger comes in a wood stock, might be mistaken - I just bought a Leupold "American Marksman" 3x9x40mm with LR & windplex ret. for less than $200 on ebay (not a knock off, I checked pre purchase) Seems like an OK scope, don't try to "dial" it, for a 300-400 yard rifle it'll be fine

I mount my own scopes and always lap my rings. Probably doesn't make a difference at short range but I like working on my rifles. I think that particular Ruger comes in a synthetic stock only and bedding it wouldn't probably do much. Sometimes you can skim bed them and free float the barrel a bit. Some benefit and some don't. Some actions are a bit tight and I prefer a smooth action but in the great scheme of things, the rifle is probably fine out of the box. But since he asked....

I have a bunch of Leupold scopes. Some are over 40 years old. Never had one fail. I never had a need for anything better.

 

[AZ16]

I would say put your money towards a caliber with a better BC. But like most have said, if you have to improve the current rifle, upgrade the glass.

 

[Blaw]

Depending on brass and powder weight- 2,700+ is easily doable. My competition 308 with 26” barrel is 2,860fps at 70 degrees. Be aware that PP2000 is not temp stable. At 90 degrees it is 2,920fps.


The 308 with 185gr VLD’s or Juggernauts and PP2000 is really a 300WM in performance.

dang! any powder you know of that give those results that IS temp stable?

 

[DB Cooper]

The trigger is always the best place to start. I usually install a Jewell Trigger into all of my guns and set them all to break at the same poundage

I would then buy a Wheeler Engineering Torque Wrench and make sure every bolt and screw on the gun is torqued to the correct amount and in the correct way. Once you know everything is torqued correctly, re-do the process with blue locktite

I would buy a muzzle break 3rd, to help with watching your shot through the scope and seeing trace/impact and making the gun more fun to shoot

 

[16Bore]

You’ve accomplished a lot and now question your gear? Dude....

Here’s what I suggest: Enjoy the ass whipping you’re giving guys in $800 monkey suits and $4,000 custom rifles.

Maybe buy a couple of cans of spray paint and make it extra ugly. That stings too...

 

[16Bore]

Imagine a gal telling you she thinks her boobs are too big......

 

[LK2HNT]

Well I kinda solved my own dilemma. Went out and just bought a new Browning X-Bolt Hells Canyon in the .300 RUM, My son shot his first moose last fall with my .308, seems kinda right to let him carry that rifle now so I went out and bought my own new rifle. Settled on the .300 RUM because its Alaska and we got some big critters here that this gun can handle all of.