Mathews guys... Bare shaft and broadhead tune question

Matt1214

Lil-Rokslider
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Hello everyone! Had a question about arrow flight and next steps. Wondering how I should proceed. I know I am probably opening a can of worms as all my searches are winding up with tons of varying approaches and opinions. Wondering if anyone else who tuned a VXR or mathews in general had a similar tune dilema. This is my first bow also btw. Have no experience tuning... here are my specs:
31.5 VXR with integrated QAD
28" draw length
68# draw
Black eagle rampage- 466gr. 300 spine AAE hunter vanes 15.6% FOC shooting iron will s100s

So I paper tuned by hand and on a hooter shooter. Then bare shaft tuned to 20 yards, by hand and hooter shooter. So close to same hole I had to shoot at separate targets to not destroy fletching every shot

Problem became when I took it to 30 yards and beyond. The bare shaft and broadheads hit high 1" and left 5". The bare shaft in particular hits my target with the tail right. So it seems like the tail moves right but not until it hits 20+ yards. Repeated this over and over.

So from my research I should move the rest to the left. Thus straightening the arrow in flight, until the impact the same spot correct?

Is this common for this to happen at further distances?
 

Zac

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Yes you always chase the point with your rest. You also have a Nock low tear, so you need to drop your rest as well. If I had a Hooter Shooter I would bare shaft out to 40 and 50 yards if you can shoot that far.
 
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Matt1214

Lil-Rokslider
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Yes you always chase the point with your rest. You also have a Nock low tear, so you need to drop your rest as well. If I had a Hooter Shooter I would bare shaft out to 40 and 50 yards if you can shoot that far.
Had it tuned with guys at the shop, they only have 20 yards unfortunately.

Chase the point you mean field or bareshaft point? Keep reading both ways.
 
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Need to move your top hats. Going to take a bow press. Start by swapping your top hats on your top cam, might need to purchase a package of them.

Hooter Shooter is great for testing, don't need to really use it for tuning.
 
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Matt1214

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Need to move your top hats. Going to take a bow press. Start by swapping your top hats on your top cam, might need to purchase a package of them.

Hooter Shooter is great for testing, don't need to really use it for tuning.
If I am getting perfect tears in paper tune at close range I still need to replace the top hats? Or can I just move rest?
 
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If I am getting perfect tears in paper tune at close range I still need to replace the top hats? Or can I just move rest?


At what range? I don't trust paper but so much. You could have a perfect hole at 10' bit not 7' and 13' for example. The reason you are tuning is to shoot broadheads, your broadheads are telling you that your nock travel is off. You can adjust it by shimming the cam or moving the rest. At 30 yards in my opinion it's still a cam adjustment. Once you get to 60 you use your rest to make very, very fine adjustments from your original centershot. Could do it vice versa, bit I find it to work better to simply set the centershot, tune by shimming the cam, then use horizontal travel in the rest to fine tune it. 5" @ 30 is a lot. To me that's still a coarse adjustment, which I would use the cams for.
 

OR Archer

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Using a Hooter Shooter to try and tune a bow in my opinion is a waste of time. It can’t mimic grip pressure, facial pressure, back wall pressure, or how you activate a release. It’s only good for nock tuning arrows, checking cam timing, and setting third axis.
When you’re tuning your adjustments up close are going to be more of a gross adjustment. Here is where you’ll be swapping top hats. Farther out you go the more minute your adjustments will become. This is where a micro adjustable rest helps.
 
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Matt1214

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Using a Hooter Shooter to try and tune a bow in my opinion is a waste of time. It can’t mimic grip pressure, facial pressure, back wall pressure, or how you activate a release. It’s only good for nock tuning arrows, checking cam timing, and setting third axis.
When you’re tuning your adjustments up close are going to be more of a gross adjustment. Here is where you’ll be swapping top hats. Farther out you go the more minute your adjustments will become. This is where a micro adjustable rest helps.
Hooter shooter is just what they used at the shop initially. I've never bought a bow and that's just what they did. I can't comment to whether or not thats proper tuning or not.

Since then I've been trying to tune at home now with broadheads, at shop I got same result as the hooter, same hole out to 20. 30, 40, etc is where its veering left. I measured my placement so I am looking at 1" high and 3.5" at 30 yards.

Should I consider swapping top hats at that range or am I looking more at moving the rest?
If I am moving the rest do I move it towards the broadhead?
 

OR Archer

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Move rest toward broadhead for horizontal but in small increments. 1/32” at a time. Verify your sight before shooting broadheads again. You’ll want to drop your rest a 1/32” also.
 
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Matt1214

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Move rest toward broadhead for horizontal but in small increments. 1/32” at a time. Verify your sight before shooting broadheads again. You’ll want to drop your rest a 1/32” also.
This is what I was thinking too, just read a lot of opinions. I'll try this thank you. Worst case I guess I can always move my rest back if it doesnt work. Ill try this tomorrow
 

golfbum

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IMO if YOU are shooting a bare shaft at 20 yards with a fletched, and you have a good tear in paper I wouldn’t touch the bow.

I would look into how the BH are spinning.

most guys can’t shoot a bareshaft past 20 yards.......
 

GatorGar247

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I bare shaft tuned a vxr 28 today..
I start by making sure my sights 1st 2nd and 3rd axis are correct.. then set my rest to 13/16 center shot. Sight in my fletched arrows.
Shoot a bareshaft at 20 yards.. fix the tail high/ low first. If I'm getting right/ left I swap the top hats to get it as close as possible. After that micro adjust the rest. Out of 4 mathews bows I haven't had to buy a top hat kit .
I usually back up to 30 yards when I get to the final rest adjustments.. 9 times out of 10 broadheads fly perfect.. if not ill micro adjust the rest to bring the broadhead in to match field points.
Imo you need to tune the bow with you shooting it. The hooter shooter is useless for that. It won't shoot your bow like you do .
 
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