Milled Tikka action

[fatbacks]

Looks awesome. This is a great option a lightweight build.

Thanks for sharing!


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[SDHNTR]

My last donor, pre rona was a blued 6.5x55 from sportsmans warehouse. 549.97 and 5% discount.
Sold the stock, barrel, bottom metal and magazine on here for $150. After taxes and fees probably a $400 donor.

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Just curious, do you do anything about that floating recoil lug in the process? That aspect of the design makes little sense to me.

 

[Sadler]

That thing looks awesome! I think I'd want the front rail to extend a little further back which wouldn't look as clean but would make me feel better about sportsmatch rings having full rail engagement.

Might have to copy this some day..

If it’s a bust and they don’t stay torqued down, I’ll let ya know. But if it does become a problem I’ll just see if Karl can lengthen that lug slot on the action so I can push the ring forward a little more.

What pattern did you go with on the bolt fluting?

I’m not sure what he calls it I just asked him to make the flutes as deep and wide as possible.

 

[wind gypsy]

If it’s a bust and they don’t stay torqued down, I’ll let ya know. But if it does become a problem I’ll just see if Karl can lengthen that lug slot on the action so I can push the ring forward a little more.

That is a great idea.

 

[amassi]

Just curious, do you do anything about that floating recoil lug in the process? That aspect of the design makes little sense to me.

Nope just make sure it seats correctly. Granted the stocks I have now have steel lugs that are glassed in- but I never had an issue with factory stocks
I use metal bottom metals from oregon mtn and mtn tac and torque ~ 50"# and never had a problem

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[B23]

I think that is Karl's 6 flute pattern. The 6 flute patterns are usually deeper wider cuts than the pattern he does with more flutes.

 

[jkdrgn]

On those sports match rings, I’ve been snugging the front ring (sans recoil pin) until it can barely slide up and down the dovetail. Then I slide it forward until it touches the point where the dovetail widens. Then torque it down. Then I put an old base screw in the forward most hole in the rear bridge, I slide the rear ring up against this screw as a recoil pin, then torque it down. This pretty well maximizes the ring spacing on a tikka dovetail. Eye relief has been great with several scopes, and nothing has shifted or slid. FYI.

 

[Castle Rock]

That is the best way to use them, but put that screw in a further rearward hole under the mount
https://www.rokslide.com/forums/thr...-i-looking-at-this-right.199391/#post-2198347
seethis post

 

[blacktail09]

Did you notice any difference in how smooth the action was? Any added slop in the bolt? Looks awesome! Are you in USA or Canada?

 

[Dos XX]

Also, when using a Tikka as a donor action, it comes with a completely usable trigger, saving another $100+.

 

[Sadler]

Did you notice any difference in how smooth the action was? Any added slop in the bolt? Looks awesome! Are you in USA or Canada?

From just playing around with it not mounted to a stock, I don’t notice any difference. My barrel for it will be here next week so I’ll be let ya know how it feels all put together when I take it to the range.

 

[83cj-7]

First I’d like to say how awesome that action looks! Karl does amazing work. I just can’t believe that all of the milling only removed 4.2oz!

I’ve been studying those action pictures really closely. It looks like to me that a set of Warne rings would be the ticket. The front Warne ring has the recoil pin that is offset F/R. That would allow the front ring to be flush or just in front of the ejection port.


Here is my dilemma. If I have 4.2oz milled out of the action, my Talley rings won’t work. They weigh 2.1oz. So then I’d go to the Warne which weigh 5.6oz.

Weight savings math:
Mill action -4.2oz
Remove Talley rings -2.1oz
Add Warne rings +5.6
Weight savings = 0.7oz.

That’s a lot of $ for 0.7oz savings. But it does look awesome!

 

[Sadler]

First I’d like to say how awesome that action looks! Karl does amazing work. I just can’t believe that all of the milling only removed 4.2oz!

I’ve been studying those action pictures really closely. It looks like to me that a set of Warne rings would be the ticket. The front Warne ring has the recoil pin that is offset F/R. That would allow the front ring to be flush or just in front of the ejection port.
View attachment 356782

Here is my dilemma. If I have 4.2oz milled out of the action, my Talley rings won’t work. They weigh 2.1oz. So then I’d go to the Warne which weigh 5.6oz.

Weight savings math:
Mill action -4.2oz
Remove Talley rings -2.1oz
Add Warne rings +5.6
Weight savings = 0.7oz.

That’s a lot of $ for 0.7oz savings. But it does look awesome!

Would be able to tap new screw holes into the top of the action to mount the talleys?

 

[LuvDog]

That looks great and makes me think about picking up another Tikka.

But, are there no concerns about how it affects how rigid the action is?

 

[762 ULTRAMAGA]

Very cool
Karl does some rad stuff.
I wonder if some aggressive skelotonizing while leaving the bridge alone would get anywhere near a 4 oz reduction?
The only thing I'm not crazy about is altering the mounting options for talleys

 

[Sadler]

Very cool
Karl does some rad stuff.
I wonder if some aggressive skelotonizing while leaving the bridge alone would get anywhere near a 4 oz reduction?
The only thing I'm not crazy about is altering the mounting options for talleys

I have the sportsmatch rings for it so I had him move up the recoil lug slot a bit so the clamps would be flush with the ejection port. When I asked him to do it he never expressed concern about it so you may be good to go with making new holes for the talleys? Not sure though.

 

[Sadler]

That looks great and makes me think about picking up another Tikka.

But, are there no concerns about how it affects how rigid the action is?

I don’t have any but I get my barrel next week so I’ll have more to say about it once I start shooting it.

 

[762 ULTRAMAGA]

I have the sportsmatch rings for it so I had him move up the recoil lug slot a bit so the clamps would be flush with the ejection port. When I asked him to do it he never expressed concern about it so you may be good to go with making new holes for the talleys? Not sure though. View attachment 356931
View attachment 356932

That's pretty awesome, you basically have an anTi for less money and wait time.
If I'm looking at this right Karl milled a new front recoil pin hole?
How much do your rings weigh?

 

[Oliver65]

Thats Slick!!!!

 

[83cj-7]

He sure did a great job on that and milling a new hole for the recoil pin is smart. I’m sure new holes could be drilled, but the top of that thing would be Swiss cheese. I guess you that’s kinda the point of this whole exercise.