N00b Setup - Cam Lean & Draw Length

[wildernessmaster]

Mission Ballistic 2.0.
My (Human) Draw is between 29.5 - 30
Has 30" mods on bow
Draw board draw length with brand new strings = 30.75 (center of berger hole to nock point on string +1.75")
As noted new strings... custom made to manufacturers specifications

Two questions:
1) How does a 30" mod produce 30.75 DL on new strings? Will it be possible to twist string down to reduce .75"? I have a 29" mod should I go back down to it? (trying to get a 29.75-30" DL.

2) Cam is leaning on top and bottom cams about 1/2 the string thickness. Is that too much and should I take up the yoke appropriately or is that ok?

Wanted to avoid having to remove the cams again... but want the bow to shoot really well.

 

[wildernessmaster]

Follow-up... Not sure if you can adjust cam lean on this style of yoke bow... If you twist one side of the yoke it will just transmit to the other side won't it (its a single string around a O loop).

 

[jmez]

Most bows will run long on advertised draw lengths. Manufactures can inflate the speed numbers that way. They all do it. Put the 29 mods on.

Not a Mathews guy but I believe you have to shim the cams on the AVS system rather than twisting yokes.

 

[wildernessmaster]

Yeah went back to 29's and got a DBDL of 29.75... probably perfect. Gonna ignore the lean for now. Looking at it if I fix it, the yoke string will probably be dragging on the cam. Just that tight of tolerances.

 

[Billy Goat]

I'm not familiar with using the Berger hole to get a draw length measurement. I have always used the grip. Mathews is known to run pretty long.


Not going to be able to change the cam lean on that bow with the yoke. Possibly with shims but I don't know.

 

[Reburn]

My experience is with the 2019+ mathews but I have always heard you dont ever try and twist the splitter. Leave it as is. You dont yoke tune mathews. Cam movement is done with tophats. Im not familar enough with older mathews to tell you how to fix a tear with those cams.

I saw somewhere on the internets with mathews you measure brace height to the center of the berger. Not sure about DL. Either way since you will be trying to setup multiple bows to the same DL I would just draw board it to the throat.

>0.5" DL tune use mods. <0.5" twist the string.
For instance 30 to 29.75" twist the string. 30 to 29.25 move the mod to 29.5 then twist string.

The number on the mod doesnt much matter honestly. throat to grip is the real # that really matters.

Plus I wouldnt worry about cam lean until you Bareshaft or paper tune the bow to figure out what your working with.

 

[wildernessmaster]

I'm not familiar with using the Berger hole to get a draw length measurement. I have always used the grip. Mathews is known to run pretty long.


Not going to be able to change the cam lean on that bow with the yoke. Possibly with shims but I don't know.

Most vendors place the center of the berger hole in line with the deepest portion of the grip which is the center of the axis of the bow. This is technically where you are suppose to measure from. On this bow it looks dang close to the right spot. Measuring from the grip produces the same result.

 

[wildernessmaster]

My experience is with the 2019+ mathews but I have always heard you dont ever try and twist the splitter. Leave it as is. You dont yoke tune mathews. Cam movement is done with tophats. Im not familar enough with older mathews to tell you how to fix a tear with those cams.

I saw somewhere on the internets with mathews you measure brace height to the center of the berger. Not sure about DL. Either way since you will be trying to setup multiple bows to the same DL I would just draw board it to the throat.

>0.5" DL tune use mods. <0.5" twist the string.
For instance 30 to 29.75" twist the string. 30 to 29.25 move the mod to 29.5 then twist string.

The number on the mod doesnt much matter honestly. throat to grip is the real # that really matters.

Plus I wouldnt worry about cam lean until you Bareshaft or paper tune the bow to figure out what your working with.

Thank you... Great answer.

 

[Billy Goat]

Most vendors place the center of the berger hole in line with the deepest portion of the grip which is the center of the axis of the bow. This is technically where you are suppose to measure from. On this bow it looks dang close to the right spot. Measuring from the grip produces the same result.

Throat of the grip has always been the amo designated way to measure. I just checked 5 different compounds I have here, only 2 does the center of the Berger hole line up with the throat of the grip, and both those bows have two Berger holes.

I'm not saying it's not correct on your bow, it's just not the standard way to measure. I'm just trying to keep confusion out. Someone reads one time to measure from the center of the Berger hole and that's how they start doing it, then it leads to confusion later. Two of the bows the grip lines up with the front of the Berger hole, one it's way in front.

To help clear confusion the draw length isn't actually measured to the throat of the grip, just that distance perpendicular to the string at rest, up on the riser. So the distance is transfered to the riser, then add 1 3/4 to that mark to get DL.

 

[5MilesBack]

It's different for all bows. On one of my bows it's the front edge of the Berger hole that lines up with the throat of the grip. On another it's the rear edge of the rear hole that lines up with the throat. Definitely use the throat of the grip.