Nevada hunters -- 10x42 vs. 12x50?

Dsundy

FNG
Joined
Feb 2, 2024
Messages
10
Hey folks -- I'm a newer hunter (<5 seasons) that currently has a pair of 10x42 Vortex Razor HD's. I primarily hunt in Nevada -- big draws, lots of windshield time, glassing flats, etc. I've focused most of my energy on mule deer and antelope thus far.

I'm seeking advice from this forum -- should I sell my 10x42s and go 12x50 for my "do it all" optic? I don't have a spotting scope and haven't really found the use for one. On all of the hunts I've been on (2x of my own, 4x supporting buddies) we've almost never used one for the way that we travel/hunt.

I guess what I'm really asking is: how much is that extra magnification really going to get me? I know 10x42 is generally considered one of the best "do it all" set ups. But I also feel like I'm always a step behind some of my buddies who rock 12x50's. THat being said, they are also much more experienced hunters. Just wondering if hunting Nevada really does require a slightly more specialized set of binos. Thoughts?
 
Are you glassing for bedded mule deer?

If you are glassing for deer in the open, and no significant distance, then 10x for field of view is better.
 
I mostly hunt NV too. I usually carry 10x42’s on my chest and do 90% of my glassing with 15 SLC’s. The only way I’d give up the 15’s is when I buy some 14 NL pures.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
@hereinaz -- I'd say distances are generally up to 2mi for deer and longer for antelope, but less cover to contend with. It's a mixed bag in terms of bedded vs. out in the open. I'd love something that I can spend a whole day behind, from early in the day when they're up and moving through the hottest part of the day when they're bedded down.

@AZ_Hunter_2000 -- where would you draw the line of "quality" in the Vortex lineup? I can't swing another set of Razor HD's (not this season at least). Also thoughts on 12 vs. 15? I like that 12's are riiiight on the line of handheld (and work well seated/on knees), but 15 feels like it better serves that "big country" use case.
 
@hereinaz -- I'd say distances are generally up to 2mi for deer and longer for antelope, but less cover to contend with. It's a mixed bag in terms of bedded vs. out in the open. I'd love something that I can spend a whole day behind, from early in the day when they're up and moving through the hottest part of the day when they're bedded down.

@AZ_Hunter_2000 -- where would you draw the line of "quality" in the Vortex lineup? I can't swing another set of Razor HD's (not this season at least). Also thoughts on 12 vs. 15? I like that 12's are riiiight on the line of handheld (and work well seated/on knees), but 15 feels like it better serves that "big country" use case.

12s are often a compromise magnification for folks that only want to own/use a single pair of binoculars for everything.

Lots of folks have the 10s on their chest and the 15s or 18s in their pack.

I believe in having an optics arsenal. If you are glassing, you really should have quality glass. Lower quality glass can give you headaches, eye strain, etc. The less time you spend in the glass the less likely you will find game.

For Vortex look at the UHD 18s. About that price point you can find used SLC 15s, new Leica Geovid R 15s, etc. I have not looked at any Maven product but their B.5s I believe have some strong support; use the Search function on this forum and you should be able to get some more info on them.

Another option is to rent this year and buy better next year; more time to save up. Incrementally upgrading optics can be more expensive than just going straight to quality.

I would 100% call CameraLandNY and S&S Archery, both are sponsors, to see what kind of deal they can do for you. I've gladly given my money to both of them.
 
12x are terrible for hand holding.

8/10x on chest
15/18x in pack

the only 12 I would consider for a do it all is the NL pure because it has a big FOV.
 
12x are terrible for hand holding.

8/10x on chest
15/18x in pack

the only 12 I would consider for a do it all is the NL pure because it has a big FOV.
I agree with this. 12s can be hand held for a short time, except the 12NL because of the field of view.

I would not sell 10x to get 12x. Wait till you can get some 15-18x. Even the lesser quality used Kaibab are useful.

Nevada isn’t going to be much different than lots of AZ. IMO, you and friends are missing lots of game. But, that’s ok, just different style.

IMG_9168.jpegIMG_9163.jpeg
 
I'm seeking advice from this forum -- should I sell my 10x42s and go 12x50 for my "do it all" optic?

No. As has been mentioned, you can hand-hold 10s, but 12s are pretty miserable for that.

I guess what I'm really asking is: how much is that extra magnification really going to get me? I

From 10 to 12, not much at all. But 15s are a big difference from a tripod, and give you the ability to see into shadows further out much better. There are a couple of places you can rent optics from, that might be worth considering as a test run. I guarantee that if you're not putting your 10s on a tripod, you're missing mule deer - and you'll find deer and distant antelope in 15s you just won't perceive with 10s.

Best advice I could offer is to keep an eye out in the Optics Classifieds here - there have been some killer deals lately on Swarovski 15x SLCs come up, as guys upgrade to the NL Pures. Probably the best value you can find right now.
 
I would keep your 10x42. They’re good glass and should serve you well. They are common enough that IMHO their usual going rate for used isn’t worth selling them.

Add a premium pair of 15 or 18 to the lineup. When funds allow
 
BTW, as a Nevada hunter, I'll second what @hereinaz said, and also offer a short version of my approach to glassing muleys:

On foot, moving into a new area, scan like crazy with 8x or 10x chest binos for the first 10-20 minutes by hand, covering lots of ground and key terrain, looking for anything obvious like standing deer or movement, and hitting key brush and terrain quickly but methodically.

From there, set up the tripod and scan with 15x or 18x binos for hours at times, picking apart the view methodically and slowly - pan the optics, then scan inside them with my eyes right-to-left, bottom-to-top (the reverse order of reading...it keeps you sharper), looking especially careful into cover, shadows, the base of rimrock, etc. Then pan a bit with the glass for a fresh view, and repeat, gridding across the view. Get myself out of the binos here and there for a naked eyeball scan, and maybe do a quick sweep with the chest binos again, before diving back into the gridding.

When on foot, I only pull out a small spotter to check on something I think I'm seeing, or for extremely far-off but likely spots. But the vast majority of my time behind optics is tripod-mounted higher powered binos.
 
BTW, as a Nevada hunter, I'll second what @hereinaz said, and also offer a short version of my approach to glassing muleys:

On foot, moving into a new area, scan like crazy with 8x or 10x chest binos for the first 10-20 minutes by hand, covering lots of ground and key terrain, looking for anything obvious like standing deer or movement, and hitting key brush and terrain quickly but methodically.

From there, set up the tripod and scan with 15x or 18x binos for hours at times, picking apart the view methodically and slowly - pan the optics, then scan inside them with my eyes right-to-left, bottom-to-top (the reverse order of reading...it keeps you sharper), looking especially careful into cover, shadows, the base of rimrock, etc. Then pan a bit with the glass for a fresh view, and repeat, gridding across the view. Get myself out of the binos here and there for a naked eyeball scan, and maybe do a quick sweep with the chest binos again, before diving back into the gridding.

When on foot, I only pull out a small spotter to check on something I think I'm seeing, or for extremely far-off but likely spots. But the vast majority of my time behind optics is tripod-mounted higher powered binos.
This is the way.

And, move 25 to 100 yards to get a different angle into the shadows.
 
Also, do it with your 10x if that’s what you have. You’ll catch them moving between 10 and 1 usually.
 
Man...this information is...so freakin' helpful. Thank you.

I think the 15's + tripod in addition to the 10's on the chest is plan A right now. Of course, someone posted a pair of virtually new Vortex Razor HD 12x50's for $700 on my local FB marketplace this morning, which feels like a heckuva deal but I will likely hold off and keep an eye out for something with more horsepower.
 
Man...this information is...so freakin' helpful. Thank you.

I think the 15's + tripod in addition to the 10's on the chest is plan A right now. Of course, someone posted a pair of virtually new Vortex Razor HD 12x50's for $700 on my local FB marketplace this morning, which feels like a heckuva deal but I will likely hold off and keep an eye out for something with more horsepower.

Don’t go cheap on the 15’s. Used SLC’s are by far your best option for the money.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Cool. I will keep an eye out on Classifieds 15s or 18s.

If you settle for Vortex, you’ll probably end up spending more money in the long rung after you upgrade to Swaro down the road like the rest of us have, especially since you live here and will use them throughout the year.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I've had the chance to use Swaro's once before -- they were a pair of 8x42's that I borrowed for a few days and the difference is definitely apparent.
 
I've had the chance to use Swaro's once before -- they were a pair of 8x42's that I borrowed for a few days and the difference is definitely apparent.

Great deals on the 15 SLC’s right now because of the 14 NL’s. I plan on upgrading and giving my 15’s to my son this year. The 15 SLC’s are still awesome.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top