New bowhunter: arrow, and broadhead question: update

[caddis75]

Thank you for all of your advice and recommendations.

I took my bow to a shop in PA. I took my bear species in and they lengthened it a half-inch so now, I have a 32 -inch draw length. My bow was just under 60 pounds, and we moved it up to 62 pounds, which felt good. For arrows, I choose Easton Bloodlines in 240, that they sized to 31.5 inches. They recommended the Stinger Broadhead in 100g. All together, I calculated my FOC to be 11% and I weighed my arrows are 432 grains. I put up my treestand today on public, and the season starts in 2 weeks. The inserts they installed were I think 12-14 grains. They installed the inserts with hot glue and said if I want to change them, to only heat up the field points to remove. I know this isn't super relevant, but I shot the new arrows with field points and they are dead on at 20 yards. I am getting confident in basic 20 -30-yard shots, my stand looks over a little gully, and most probable shots are within that. I don't think I will shot much past 20-25 yards.

I have a few questions.

1. How do I make sure the broadheads line up with the fletchings? Are there any tricks?
2. Can you recommend an inexpensive broadhead target so I can test the above?
3. Should I add any weight to the inserts? How do I figure out how much?
4.When in a stand, do you recommend nocking an arrow and leaving it in, or only nocking it when you see a deer?

Thanks for your time!

 

[Billy Goat]

I think it's a waste of time lining up your broadheads with your fletching, however you can use a small o-ring to do it, or since hot melted put the broadhead on heat it and spin it. But it won't make any difference.


Rhinehart seems to be a pretty good target for the money. The layered targets that are frequently available tend to get worn out pretty quickly.

Until you have reason to add weight I'd leave it alone. You should have an arrow that is plenty heavy, and as long as your draw is they will have plenty of energy.


I always sit with an arrow nocked and ready, it's hard enough to get drawn sometimes, you don't need any additional movement.

 

[Desk Jockey]

Rinennaet is a good target for buy once cry once. It will last a few years.

iMo you are overthinking the arrow thing. Don’t change anything two weeks before season unless it ain’t flying well. Shoot what you have. At your draw with 62# you pass through any white tail you hit. You can go deep down the arrow nerd hole later.

just get in the woods and hunt. You will figure the rest as you go.

as far as knocking an arrow, when I stand hunt I usually knock an arrow once I settle in. I also use a bow hanger in the stand usually.


good luck.

Amazon.com

 

[N2TRKYS]

Don’t forget to bend at the waist for your treestand shots.

 

[caddis75]

Thanks for the suggestions. Based on the above, I'm not going to change anything and practice when I can. Thanks for the reminder to bend at the waist. Take care.

 

[Rob5589]

Cheap BH target; 15 dollar hay bale.

 

[Gila]

It is important that the broad head lines up with the arrow shaft. Put the arrow on a spinner. The tip of the broadhead should not wobble. A very slight wobble should not matter that much at 25 yards. However you should evventually practice out to 45 yards. You will be more stable at 25 yards if you do.

 

[theleo91386]

1. How do I make sure the broadheads line up with the fletchings? Are there any tricks? Remove the inserts, screw your broadheads into them tightly, and then reinstall them so the broadheads are matching the fletchings. It's not at all necessary you do this. If anything it's just a sign you're should be practicing more than obsessing over such things less.
2. Can you recommend an inexpensive broadhead target so I can test the above? Cheapest overtime for me has been the Rino Block with the removable core. Broadheads never touch anything but the core, and that only ends up needing to be replaced every couple of years. The rest of the target is basically indestructible if you're only using field points on it.
3. Should I add any weight to the inserts? How do I figure out how much? No. Leave your setup alone. If you feel it's necessary look into it after the season is over. With you're draw length you've got plenty there to handle any white tail, and %95 of any elk hunting if you wanted,
4.When in a stand, do you recommend nocking an arrow and leaving it in, or only nocking it when you see a deer? When you get situated in your stand go ahead and nock an arrow. It's just that less movement you'll have to make that an animal might catch.

 

[mmcdonough]

Sounds like you're already setup for success. I wouldn't put much thought into having your fletchings lined up with your broadheads. They will fly just fine regardless as long as they produce enough drag. I've had issues using a low profile flethcing with a big fixed broadhead but your arrows probably came with blazer vanes and those have always been great for everything.

You won't find much for broadhead targets under $60 unfortunately. As others have said, just buy a Rhinehart and you'll be set for years, I really like their 18-1 target. I use a cheap bag target for the majority of my practice shooting and then use that Rhinehart to fine tune my broadheads.

The only reason you'd want to increase the weight on your inserts would be for really big game like Elk or Moose. It can give your arrow more punch up front to get through a thicker animal. For deer your regular aluminum inserts will work just fine.

As far as nocking an arrow. I always nock one once I get up in the stand. That way you're always ready and there's less scrambling to get ready when you see one. I like to use the screw in hangers that stick out 12-15" to hang my bow within easy reaching distance.

 

[caddis75]

I think it's a waste of time lining up your broadheads with your fletching, however you can use a small o-ring to do it, or since hot melted put the broadhead on heat it and spin it. But it won't make any difference.


Rhinehart seems to be a pretty good target for the money. The layered targets that are frequently available tend to get worn out pretty quickly.

Until you have reason to add weight I'd leave it alone. You should have an arrow that is plenty heavy, and as long as your draw is they will have plenty of energy.


I always sit with an arrow nocked and ready, it's hard enough to get drawn sometimes, you don't need any additional movement.

Thank you. I picked up a Rhinehart pyramid.

 

[caddis75]

Rinennaet is a good target for buy once cry once. It will last a few years.

iMo you are overthinking the arrow thing. Don’t change anything two weeks before season unless it ain’t flying well. Shoot what you have. At your draw with 62# you pass through any white tail you hit. You can go deep down the arrow nerd hole later.

just get in the woods and hunt. You will figure the rest as you go.

as far as knocking an arrow, when I stand hunt I usually knock an arrow once I settle in. I also use a bow hanger in the stand usually.


good luck.

Amazon.com

Thanks. I bought something similar. Appreciated.

 

[caddis75]

Don’t forget to bend at the waist for your treestand shots.

Practicing that. Appreciated.