New Limbs = New Tune?

[Gorp2007]

Shop tuned my bow 3 weeks ago and found splinters on 3 of 4 limbs. The bow was shooting bullet holes for me and the tech when I left that day, but Saturday they swapped the limbs and now it's shooting 3" right and a bareshaft at 20 yards missed the 18-1 entirely. I'm more than capable of screwing up a shot, so I'm wondering if a limb swap should also require a full re-tune or if I just need to focus more on me.

Mathews Traverse 29.5" DL 66# shooting 28.5" Axis 340s with 125 up front and Axis 300s with 150 up front, both with 3x Blazers and a 4" wrap.

About three months ago it was shooting broadheads perfectly with fieldpoints to 40 and bareshafts hit with fletched at 30. Then I swapped out the strings and now I feel like I'm in the bow tuning version of If You Give a Mouse a Cookie.

 

[NYSKIER]

I'd say it's entirely possible that the new limbs could throw things off, on top of that there is no guarantee that everything was lined up exactly spot on to how it was before the new limbs. Have you tried to bareshaft up close first? I would go up close and then walk back a little and that will tell you what needs to be done

 

[Jellymon1]

My first thought is that when the limbs were swapped the shop didn’t install the Cam shims the same way as they were beforehand. If it tuned before but won’t tune now, I think shim placement is a very likely culprit

 

[OR Archer]

Yes. If limbs were replaced it needs to be retuned.

 

[Reburn]

Yes retune. Basically if any whole part of the bow except the sight gets replaced a retune will be needed.
whole pieces are; Cams, Strings & or cables, Rest, limbs, riser.

 

[SDHNTR]

Absolutely a full retune is needed

 

[Gorp2007]

Alright, everyone's confirming what I already thought. Thanks for taking the time to state the obvious!

Here's the bareshafts and fletched. One of the bareshafts is a 340 the other is 300, thought I'd at least check to make sure that it wasn't an arrow spine issue. Bareshafts grouped well, so there's that, right? Impact angle is weird because it's hanging out of a stall mat.

 

[satchamo]

Limbs aren’t perfectly uniform and identical (tho very close) so a bit of variation is enough to change cam lean, thus your centershot.

It’s been my experience that newtons law had to have been written compound bows - for every action there is a reaction.

On a traverse about the only thing you can do is swap top hats until you get what you want.

 

[Gorp2007]

So I'm taking it in to the bow shop tomorrow, but in the mean time I built a makeshift paper tuning stand. Would a nock left tear be consistent with broadheads and bareshafts hitting to the right?

I swapped an old set of 28.5" mods to shorten my DL an inch and nock tear was exactly the same.

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[Fins_N_Tines]

So I'm taking it in to the bow shop tomorrow, but in the mean time I built a makeshift paper tuning stand. Would a nock left tear be consistent with broadheads and bareshafts hitting to the right?

I swapped an old set of 28.5" mods to shorten my DL an inch and nock tear was exactly the same.

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Yes this just happened to me. Something came loose and out of blue I was hitting right. I checked paper and sure enough I had a hard nock left tear.

 

[Reburn]

Yes you need to move your cam to the left. I would look at the top or bottom and see where the big top hats are. the thicker top hats should be on the right and thinner on the left. Do you have a press?

 

[Gorp2007]

Do you have a press?

Not yet, but that's quickly climbing to the top of my list of things to get.

Checked the shims and the thicker is on the left.

 

[Gorp2007]

Got to the shop and 20 minutes later everything was good as new, like others pointed out it was an easy top hat swap. He started just flipping the set that was in but ultimately went with a second set and we were both able to put bullet holes in paper.

Thanks to everyone for the help, next step is to decide which LCA press I want/need.