New Strings & New Press - Timing Help - Mathews VXR 31.5

[StopMakingSense]

About to make a big move to the middle of nowhere. Pretty stoked but I knew I had to get my own press to do all of the work on my bows.

I replaced my strings every year but this is the first year doing it myself!

I put the strings on without much thought besides just putting the strings on in the press. All of it went on and nothing exploded, pretty excited.

I then checked the timing but I'm clearly off. I did twists all over the bow but to no avail, I see no changes. Here are the pictures, can anyone advise on how you fix this timing? I'm just a novice when it comes to putting my bow in a press. Thanks everyone!

Top



Bottom



Full Bow

 

[doncarpenter]

You don't need twists all over the bow to correct the timing. Just twisting the cable on the cam that's ahead in time.

Could also be your nocking point location. On that bow it should be dead center between the axles.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

 

[Arctic Hunter]

Looks like you need to add twists to the bottom or remove from the top. Depending on where the draw weight is and which way it needs to go. It might be a combination of both. Twisting the bus strings will add weight to the bow, so if it’s above peak weight, you will likely need to take some twists out to let the top cam roll over faster and catch up to the bottom cam. If the timing marks don’t line up, it could be a string length issue.

You can make a simple draw board and check the length under 100# of pressure to make sure they are in factory specs.

 

[Billy Goat]

If you twisted things different directions I'd pull stuff back off and measure to find out where you actually are. Need to measure with tension on the cables, supposed to be 100# of tension. You can use a solid fastener of some sort, like heavy nail in something solid, and use a good sized screwdriver in the other loop and pull by hand to be pretty close.

Get things set to the lengths they are supposed to be.


Now if you do that and end up where you are I'd split the difference and let a twist out of the cable in your top cam and put a twist in the cable on the bottom cam. Don't mess with the floating yokes, just put twists on the cables on the loop ends.

Also double check the orientation of you cables in the guard. Cable that has the floating yoke on bottom cam goes right side of the cable guard looking from back of the bow. The cable with loop end on bottom cam goes on left side.


Something to add:

Those vxr's have a lot of serving, not much of the cables or even the string aren't under serving. I find that you really don't want to twist them much.

 

[540-Virginian]

OK, I can relate and will share how stupid I am and then how I fixed it in hopes it'll help you.

I've been shooting for ~3 years now and dove into tuning headfirst this year. Bought new aftermarket GAS strings and when I pulled them out of the package I literally said, "what the hell are these paper clips for." I proceeded to remove the clips and smoothed out my strings as they were all kinked up.

I then went online and read Rokslide's article on DIY string replacement. After the third paragraph (specifically, the part where Jared explains what the paperclips were for), I called my mum, asked her to come over, and bitch slap me across the face (she didn't hesitate, it still stings two months later).

So, to fix my f-up, I went to my bow company's website and found the string measurements. I screwed a hook onto my draw board and then very very carefully put tension on my strings and cables. I would twist them until they measured as close as I could get them to the mfg specs.

I put them on my bow, then bow in draw board to check timing, adjusted timing as any video or person on here would instruct you to do, and got it timed. Shot 50 arrows, then put peep in, adjust the sting for a twist, checked timing (had to adjust a slight amount), and ever since I've been good. At least 200 shots in since that fiasco.

 

[Zac]

OK, I can relate and will share how stupid I am and then how I fixed it in hopes it'll help you.

I've been shooting for ~3 years now and dove into tuning headfirst this year. Bought new aftermarket GAS strings and when I pulled them out of the package I literally said, "what the hell are these paper clips for." I proceeded to remove the clips and smoothed out my strings as they were all kinked up.

I then went online and read Rokslide's article on DIY string replacement. After the third paragraph (specifically, the part where Jared explains what the paperclips were for), I called my mum, asked her to come over, and bitch slap me across the face (she didn't hesitate, it still stings two months later).

So, to fix my f-up, I went to my bow company's website and found the string measurements. I screwed a hook onto my draw board and then very very carefully put tension on my strings and cables. I would twist them until they measured as close as I could get them to the mfg specs.

I put them on my bow, then bow in draw board to check timing, adjusted timing as any video or person on here would instruct you to do, and got it timed. Shot 50 arrows, then put peep in, adjust the sting for a twist, checked timing (had to adjust a slight amount), and ever since I've been good. At least 200 shots in since that fiasco.

LoL this one really cracked me up

 

[Billy Goat]

LoL this one really cracked me up

He definitely has some writing skills.



I get in trouble because the only way I can elaborate is to cuss a lot.

 

[540-Virginian]

If you dont poke fun at yourself, this crap would be miserable...

 

[Reburn]

If you dont poke fun at yourself, this crap would be miserable...

I didn't do it quite as bad as you. First time I did a hoyt I F-ed the routing. Bow was pulling 95 and wouldnt break over. I fought it and fought it and finally said to hell with it and went to bed. Next day it was crystal clear what I had done. Re routed and bow pulled fine but I had jacked up the lengths and twists. Used my bow press and a scale to get them back right. Took me forever honestly. Dont work on stuff when your tired.

 

[540-Virginian]

I didn't do it quite as bad as you. First time I did a hoyt I F-ed the routing. Bow was pulling 95 and wouldnt break over. I fought it and fought it and finally said to hell with it and went to bed. Next day it was crystal clear what I had done. Re routed and bow pulled fine but I had jacked up the lengths and twists. Used my bow press and a scale to get them back right. Took me forever honestly. Dont work on stuff when your tired.

all my tinkering happens in the moonlit hours. its the only time the kids aren’t making me wipe up shit, and my wife isn’t giving me shit.

ive woken up hungover from tuning one to many times...

 

[Reburn]

all my tinkering happens in the moonlit hours. its the only time the kids are making me wipe up shit, and my wife isn’t giving me shit.

ive woken up hungover from tuning one to many times...

Yea I say that as I'm dropping a trigger in one of my guns and adjusting it at 9pm......I feel the pain.

 

[StopMakingSense]

Yeah, these strings went on after a couple, I'll probably hop into the garage tonight and give it a try for a few days. If all else fails, I still have my bow shop before I leave.

 

[Gerard Marcaurele]

If you’re doing it the proper way, take the strings off and measure them under tension. Get them as close as you can to proper spec and re-install.
If you want the fast way, keep adding twists to the cable controlling the bottom cam until they are timed correctly. You can use the timing holes for reference when the cams are at rest so that you don’t have to draw it back until they’re relatively close.

Then, check your axle to axle measurement. If it’s too short, take a twist out of each cable and check it again. Go until you’re close to factory spec.

 

[StopMakingSense]

I have absolutely no idea what I did.

Taking it to the shop today... luckily my guy is going to show me how to fix it! A $100 tip should make him happy.

I will report back on what I learned. Thank you for all the help guys. A ton of good information that will help me today to better understand what my guy at the shop is doing.

 

[Zac]

I have absolutely no idea what I did.

Taking it to the shop today... luckily my guy is going to show me how to fix it! A $100 tip should make him happy.

I will report back on what I learned. Thank you for all the help guys. A ton of good information that will help me today to better understand what my guy at the shop is doing.

Most bows aren't going to time perfectly after a new set of strings and cables. You did just fine. You just have to learn some basic principles to get into spec. Then you may have to do a few turns here or there once you get a bunch of arrows down range.

 

[StopMakingSense]

Well, it was an easy fix. I had put the cables backwards in the cable guard. Once that was fixed a few twists brought it right in time. I feel like an idiot for not double checking my other work.

We didn't stretch the cables out and measure them, it timed perfect.

Brach height measurement from string to the deepest groove on my Torqueless grip is 5 7/8" and the ATA is 31 3/4"

What would you guys do at this point? Leave the strings alone and finish tuning it?

 

[Billy Goat]

How many shots on the strings? Enough to settle?

What's the draw weight and actual draw length?

 

[StopMakingSense]

I have 75lb mods (VXR 80% G)

The LCA HS3 says 72.5lbs (The last Gas strings were 73.5)

Draw length is right on at 28 1/8" (Throat + 1.75)

No shots yet...

Thanks @Billy Goat for helping me through this.

 

[Billy Goat]

I have 75lb mods (VXR 80% G)

The LCA HS3 says 72.5lbs (The last Gas strings were 73.5)

Draw length is right on at 28 1/8" (Throat + 1.75)

No shots yet...

Thanks @Billy Goat for helping me through this.

View attachment 292814

Every Mathews runs long. Like 1/2" long, it's a pia. So to me the draw length is short for what they normally run. I think you ata is long, your brace us short and your poundage is down.

Here is a chart. Seems to me like you might twist your cables. Since it's now in time you will want to twist them even. What you do to the top, do to the bottom.

 

[StopMakingSense]

Thanks, @Billy Goat I got the ATA to 31 5/8 and 74.5lbs although the draw length and brace heigh5 didn't increase too much. Shot it through paper and a bullet hole. Had it shooting yesterday to 85 yards on a foam elk right on the crease. The bow feels good!

I used this method for tying in my peep, Darin's a good guy. - https://westernhunter.net/information/how-to-properly-tie-in-a-peep-sight/