Nightforce shv 3-10 vs Vortex Viper PST gen 2 2-10 or 3-15

[WIcowGuy]

Hey guys, looking to add a scope to a Tikka t3x in 7 mag to start getting into longer range shooting, the two scopes I'm torn between are the PST gen 2's or the SHV's. Sounds like both have reliable tracking, so any thoughts between the two? Tend to be in a similar price range. Also, I have heard very little about the PST in 2-10x32 but the 2 power sounds tempting considering i sometimes hunt in tight timber, and the potential weight savings are intriguing as well.

Thanks in advance!

 

[JimGa]

The one 2-10 pst ffp i looked through i thought the reticle sucked. I like ffp reticle that are designed correctly, but this was way too thin. That was awhile ago, and maybe they've changed, but for hunting, I wouldn't want it.

 

[Spoonbill]

Hey guys, looking to add a scope to a Tikka t3x in 7 mag to start getting into longer range shooting, the two scopes I'm torn between are the PST gen 2's or the SHV's. Sounds like both have reliable tracking, so any thoughts between the two? Tend to be in a similar price range. Also, I have heard very little about the PST in 2-10x32 but the 2 power sounds tempting considering i sometimes hunt in tight timber, and the potential weight savings are intriguing as well.

Thanks in advance!

Not a huge sample size, but I have yet to have a friend with a nightforce have the scope fail. I know of several people who have had issues with vortex scopes failing. Like I said, small sample size of a couple dozen scopes but I would personally take a nightforce over a vortex in the same price range.

 

[woods89]

I consider the SHV a considerable step up from a PST.

 

[WIcowGuy]

Thanks guys, I was leaning towards the nightforce but had to ask after hearing some positive things about the gen 2. Seeing some vx5 hd's falling into a similar price range of the SHV, is that worth looking into, or anything else as well? Really looking to stay semi-lightweight and want a low power range of no more than 3 for thick timber. I know money fixes all problems but I am already seriously exceeding what I should really spend on a scope but trying to make a one time purchase, so I really need to keep it under $1k.

Thanks for all the insight!

 

[Spoonbill]

Thanks guys, I was leaning towards the nightforce but had to ask after hearing some positive things about the gen 2. Seeing some vx5 hd's falling into a similar price range of the SHV, is that worth looking into, or anything else as well? Really looking to stay semi-lightweight and want a low power range of no more than 3 for thick timber. I know money fixes all problems but I am already seriously exceeding what I should really spend on a scope but trying to make a one time purchase, so I really need to keep it under $1k.

Thanks for all the insight!

I have a 3-9 trijicon that i have been happy with. I have read good thibgs about Meopta as well but have never used one. Both of those are within your budget. SWFA gets a lot of good reviews too, they make a 3-9 and a 3-15

 

[sndmn11]

I think the SHVs that I have had are a big step up from friends' and acquaintances' vortex products. The peace of mind in knowing that you have a product that has a miniscule failure rate I think is well worth the cost. I just sold a SHV 3-10 because I wanted to stick with MILs and be able to more easily dial elevation, but it would be a fantastic choice if you are the opposite. The F1 SHV models we have, have served us well for the purpose above, but I did just get a Bushnell LRTSi that might win me over. If MILs and dialable elevation are your thing, the LRTS can be found for less than an F1 SHV. They might even come from the same factory.

 

[Corey Paulsen (teamkabob)]

My PST is going back to vortex again. The objective is difficult to turn. I would go with the nightforce. I be they just add grease again and say no issues.

 

[WIcowGuy]

I really appreciate all those tips. For now I lean towards MOA purely because that is what I am versed in. I want to be able to dial out to longer ranges, but still expect most of my shooting to be within 300 yards, which is why I really like the capped turrets on the shv. My thinking is I have a scope on the 7 mag where I won't have to worry about bumping a turret off, and can shoot mpb ranges out to 300 just by putting the crosshairs on, but if I'm taking a longer shot I can still uncap, and have a truly dependable dial system that I am confident in. For those of you that have done more hunting at extended ranges, am I thinking about that wrong? Also, I am left handed, not a huge deal but the side focus isn't going to be a big bother, is it?

 

[CApighunter]

Shameless plug, I listed a 3-10 SHV in the classifieds yesterday. If you want capped turrets and MOA adjustments that track reliably it’s a tough scope to beat. Right around 20 oz and built to handle any abuse youll through its way. The side focus is pretty low profile, I don’t see it causing any issues for a lefty. I have complete confidence in any NF product, can’t say the same about Vortex.

 

[chutinlead]

Is the 3-10 SHV FFP or SFP? If you're looking at SFP in that budget I would lean towards the Razor LHT vs the PST. I got a 3-15x42 LHT for this season and it was awesome in low light. Exposed but locking elevation make it dialable for long range target practice and inside 300 you aren't going to need to hold over or dial for hunting much anyway.

 

[WIcowGuy]

The NF is 2nd focal plane. Thanks for mentioning the LHT, looks like it costs every bit as much as the NF, but is 3oz lighter. Is the tracking thought to be as consistent as the pst g2?

 

[sndmn11]

You can dial just fine with the 3-10 SHV, you just have to take the caps off and there is no zero stop. There are grauduation marks below the turret that give you a solid idea how many rotations from bottom you are at, and you can reset the turret itself to show zero. So, you can get back to your zero easily. The MOAR reticle also can be used as a hold over easily. With your 7mag you can sight in at 200 and probably be a 2-2.5moa hold over at 300.
The SHV F1 does come in a MOA reticle, I can't think of why the 56mm models would be preferred over the 42mm or 50mm F1.

 

[chutinlead]

The NF is 2nd focal plane. Thanks for mentioning the LHT, looks like it costs every bit as much as the NF, but is 3oz lighter. Is the tracking thought to be as consistent as the pst g2?

Oh yeah. I use mine on my 6.5-06 for shooting prairie dogs all summer dialing and then in the fall for hunting. I had a 3-15 PST on it before and took it out one late afternoon and as it got dark, the thin reticle on the pst in the fading light was tough to see.

 

[Southern Lights]

I use my SHV on a 270 out to 700yards so far. Tracking is perfect. The only issue is you must remember or write down which elevation index you are on so you can be sure you dial back down to zero and not lose yourself on the turret. For most ranges you'll only be going up one turn at most on the SHV to reach 1000. For shooting under 500 yards you'll never go over the first turn on most calibers so the zero stop is less important.

I like covered turrets on dials that don't lock. I've had turrets spin on a hunt and almost cost me a shot had I not seen it at the last second.

2x vs. 3x. Not much difference in practice. Also at 3X and below on most rifles you start seeing the barrel in the view which you may find distracting. I never find a need to go below 3X and usually carry the scope set at 4X for all around use even in tight forest. Often I want some mild power even in thick stuff so I can positively ID what I'm shooting at and where I'm shooting.

When you pick up the NF SHV it feels very substantial and well built without being obnoxiously heavy. I trust the scope can be bounced around and will hold zero when I need it.

I just had a frustrating experience where a scope I've used for years (not nightforce) has started to drift on zero. It wasted a lot of my time before I finally narrowed down the issue. If I had it on a hunt it would have clearly cost me a shot on an animal. Always choose the most reliable scope you can stomach. I'm replacing it with an SHV.

The lower end Vortex stuff is not good quality and I would avoid it.

 

[wannakillabigbull]

I can't think of why the 56mm models would be preferred over the 42mm or 50mm F1.

The 42mm only goes up to 10X, and the 50mm F1 has a very touchy eyebox and much worse eye relief than the rest. For someone looking to shoot longish range with a heavier recoiling rifle, I can see why they'd opt for the 56mm models.

 

[chutinlead]

I like covered turrets on dials that don't lock. I've had turrets spin on a hunt and almost cost me a shot had I not seen it at the last second.

I'll second that on the locking or capped turrets. With jumping in and out of trucks, sliding your gun back in the case, it is one less thing to worry about. That's another reason I went to the Razor LHT. Capped windage and locking elevation.

 

[sndmn11]

The 42mm only goes up to 10X, and the 50mm F1 has a very touchy eyebox and much worse eye relief than the rest. For someone looking to shoot longish range with a heavier recoiling rifle, I can see why they'd opt for the 56mm models.

Come grab one of my F1 models before your next range day and give it a whirl. I've never found any eye box or eye relief issues, @KickinNDishin hasn't mentioned anything either. I'd be comfortable throwing it in my AR and using it just like an ACOG is used in short. All the scope needs to deliver is consistent eye relief and eye box.

 

[wannakillabigbull]

Come grab one of my F1 models before your next range day and give it a whirl. I've never found any eye box or eye relief issues, @KickinNDishin hasn't mentioned anything either. I'd be comfortable throwing it in my AR and using it just like an ACOG is used in short. All the scope needs to deliver is consistent eye relief and eye box.

I may have to take you up on that. I do disagree though, about consistent eye relief and eye box being all the scope needs. Short eye relief makes you get pretty close to the scope to get a full view, which can be an issue if you're wanting to shoot a magnum rifle without a brake. And regardless of the eye box being consistent, if it's picky, which both F1s I've looked through were compared to my other scopes, then it can put you at a disadvantage when hunting, especially solo. Finding the animal through your scope after recoil can be critical to figuring out where it went, and a forgiving eye box helps with that immensely. That's just been by experience though.

All that is to say, NF really should make their SFP scopes in 50mm so you don't have to mount them so high. I like everything about the 4-14x56 and 5-20x56 better than the other two, expect that dang objective being so big.

 

[sndmn11]

I may have to take you up on that. I do disagree though, about consistent eye relief and eye box being all the scope needs. Short eye relief makes you get pretty close to the scope to get a full view, which can be an issue if you're wanting to shoot a magnum rifle without a brake. And regardless of the eye box being consistent, if it's picky, which both F1s I've looked through were compared to my other scopes, then it can put you at a disadvantage when hunting, especially solo. Finding the animal through your scope after recoil can be critical to figuring out where it went, and a forgiving eye box helps with that immensely. That's just been by experience though.

All that is to say, NF really should make their SFP scopes in 50mm so you don't have to mount them so high. I like everything about the 4-14x56 and 5-20x56 better than the other two, expect that dang objective being so big.

I honestly have never noticed any issues with eye relief. The last person to shoot the Tikka 30-06 was my brother who hadn't held a firearm probably in 28 years. He didn't get scoped and ran a whole box of corelokt through it without mentioning anything about an shadowed or incomplete view.
Did you look through them mounted on a rifle, or holding it up like pirate? I just got a 6x and 10x SWFA, as well as a 4-18 LRTS, and I felt the same way with some remorse about the 10x until I put it in rings on a rifle. Mounted it is just fine.

Zooming out to take a shot at game is probably the best help in finding animals and spotting shots.