Nock Right Paper Tear

[Fins_N_Tines]

@Fins_N_Tines Day Six uses AAE IP4 nocks, they’re fairly thick top to bottom and on your short ATA bow you’ll need to tie in some pretty forgiving nock sets. As far as center serving diameter I’ve used up to .111” and had no tuning issues from the throat at that diameter. I ran into a similar issue with my VXR.

A few more things for anyone else; if you really want to learn about dynamic spine and how it impacts arrow flight then please sign up for Field Nationals in Yankton this year. Fairly certain there’s a 900 round to be shot as well. I’ll be driving a white 2011 GMC 1500 and would love to shoot with any of you so that we can stop pretending that archery and it’s low velo projectiles are of grave importance to the laws of physics. Or sign up for a TAC event, wear your Sitka range pants, tell the world what your FOC is, argue over which vanes are better for stabilizing your setup, and keep pumping money into the products that Dorge and Brent are trying to sell you.


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Thank you for the advice. I wouldn't call 33" ATA short though at least for a hunting bow.

 

[5MilesBack]

Thank you for the advice. I wouldn't call 33" ATA short though at least for a hunting bow.

It's all relative........the shortest bow I've ever shot is 36 3/4" ATA. 33" is a midget bow to me.

 

[Fins_N_Tines]

It's all relative........the shortest bow I've ever shot is 36 3/4" ATA. 33" is a midget bow to me.

Damn! good point. Yeah I like longer bows, but I thought that was 33 - 35". Guess I like medium length bows

 

[Kularrow]

Here’s a couple bareshafts too. I haven’t touched anything wanted to do it again. I stood back further than previously and the tears widened.

 

[4ester]

Well that rules out fletching contact.....


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[Zac]

I'll tell you what I did with my VXR.

Set up your rest at 13/16.
Use the largest set of top hats on both top and bottom cams. Shim to the right on both.
This will give you a hard LEFT tear. This is what you want.
Your going to work your way back through the top hats from largest to smallest.
So start at your top cam and move to the middle set of top hats. Continue to shim to the RIGHT, DO NOT chase the tear.
IF you still have a hard Left tear you are going to move to the smallest top hat on the top cam and shim to the right again. If you have a smaller Left tear then stop shimming the top cam and move to the bottom.
Continue the process on the bottom of moving down through the top hats. Shim to the right again on the bottom cam with the middle top hat.
This should get you really close. Once you are close move your rest back to 13/16. The shimming is going to slightly alter your center shot. Analyze your paper tear again.
It is up to you based on the size of the tear whether you wan't to decrease to the smallest set of shims, or move your rest.
For smaller tears, use the bottom cam.
Once you are vey close you can fine tune your rest then do a walk back tune or broad head tune to finish up.
If you are unable to get out the tear using this top hat method and the rest then you will have to adjust tip, tail weight, and poundage.

Hope this makes sense.

In closing,
Move both Top Hat combos, top and bottom all the way to the right. Begin at the top continuing to shim to the right with lesser agressive top hats until you get close. Then repeat the process on the bottom cams. Fine tune with the rest. Complete walk back tune, or broadhead tune at range to finish.

 

[Kularrow]

I'll tell you what I did with my VXR.

Set up your rest at 13/16.
Use the largest set of top hats on both top and bottom cams. Shim to the right on both.
This will give you a hard LEFT tear. This is what you want.
Your going to work your way back through the top hats from largest to smallest.
So start at your top cam and move to the middle set of top hats. Continue to shim to the RIGHT, DO NOT chase the tear.
IF you still have a hard Left tear you are going to move to the smallest top hat on the top cam and shim to the right again. If you have a smaller Left tear then stop shimming the top cam and move to the bottom.
Continue the process on the bottom of moving down through the top hats. Shim to the right again on the bottom cam with the middle top hat.
This should get you really close. Once you are close move your rest back to 13/16. The shimming is going to slightly alter your center shot. Analyze your paper tear again.
It is up to you based on the size of the tear whether you wan't to decrease to the smallest set of shims, or move your rest.
For smaller tears, use the bottom cam.
Once you are vey close you can fine tune your rest then do a walk back tune or broad head tune to finish up.
If you are unable to get out the tear using this top hat method and the rest then you will have to adjust tip, tail weight, and poundage.

Hope this makes sense.

In closing,
Move both Top Hat combos, top and bottom all the way to the right. Begin at the top continuing to shim to the right with lesser agressive top hats until you get close. Then repeat the process on the bottom cams. Fine tune with the rest. Complete walk back tune, or broadhead tune at range to finish.

Thanks @Zac

 

[Ajax2744]

After reading through all this I’d guess your draw length is too long. Post a pic of you at full draw

 

[Kularrow]

Alright Jedis, I took my bow to the shop and my timing was slightly off. The tech got it to shoot bullets through paper with his release but when I did I came up with a nock right tear again. He said it’s my grip and Mathews are grip sensitive. Opinions?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Alright Jedis, I took my bow to the shop and my timing was slightly off. The tech got it to shoot bullets through paper with his release but when I did I came up with a nock right tear again. He said it’s my grip and Mathews are grip sensitive. Opinions?

Either leave the bow as is and adjust your grip or leave your grip as is and adjust the bow (move rest to the left or shim cams to the right). Keep in mind that a perfect paper tear isn't really your ultimate goal; paper tuning a step in the process of achieving the same point of impact with both field points and broadheads.

 

[Zac]

Alright Jedis, I took my bow to the shop and my timing was slightly off. The tech got it to shoot bullets through paper with his release but when I did I came up with a nock right tear again. He said it’s my grip and Mathews are grip sensitive. Opinions?

So you could try the Ultraview grip, or some side plates either fom Mathews or Rattler Grips.

 

[Brendan]

Alright Jedis, I took my bow to the shop and my timing was slightly off. The tech got it to shoot bullets through paper with his release but when I did I came up with a nock right tear again. He said it’s my grip and Mathews are grip sensitive. Opinions?

Your answer was posted in Post #4, and about 20 other times in this thread. Bow needs to be tuned. Move the rest or shim the cams.

View attachment 281991

Gold Tip - Paper Tuning

Gold Tip shafts are quick and easy to cut, assemble, and tune in any configuration by following these instructions. Read through all the steps of each section before starting your assembly.

www.goldtip.com

 

[Kularrow]

Ok, I shimmed the cams with a Top Hat system and I’m getting consistent bullet holes at 6 feet but at 15 yards I’m off. Any ideas?

 

[Zac]

Paper tuning is almost useless. You need to cut the fletchings off a shaft and bareshaft with that shaft and a fletched shaft at 30 yards. Once you are sure that you are touching carbon at that distance you need to move to 40. You should be consistently within an inch of your fletched shaft at 40. The bareshaft should also look like it is entering the target medium straight. You can use your rest to do this. However if you creep left past 13/16, or right past 3/4 you need to go back to shimming. You still have a right tear. It is just lessened than the previous tear you had. The shop is never going to completely tune a bow because they are just barely starting this process for you. You have to complete the tuning process.

 

[bigW]

Ok, I shimmed the cams with a Top Hat system and I’m getting consistent bullet holes at 6 feet but at 15 yards I’m off. Any ideas?

...too weak spine / too high FOC?

 

[bigW]

@wapitibob :
trying to sort out some issues with the limbs of my Traverse, what units have the hand writing reflecting the deflection at 6"? ... "mm" ? (I live in a metric world so this assumption came natural) or is it referenced to the nominated poundage of the bow and it is the ratio of POUNDAGE to deflection in INCH? ...e.g. for a 70 lbs bow / limb it would be 0.65" of deflection at 6" results in 70 lbs/0.65" = 107.7 ...???