Nock tuning bare shaft arrows

Jimbob

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Do any of you guys nock tune your arrows before fletching? I started doing this last year and I am happy with the results.

I am setting up my arrows for this year and just doing this right now. Shooting all of my arrows bare shaft through paper to make sure they all tear the same way. Basically, this is just spine indexing your arrows by shooting them.

I hear a little about nock tuning when arrows are fletched and you have flyers but not a lot of chatter about doing that beforehand.

So do any of you guys do this? Why isn't it more popular?

Here's a video that describes the process I do.
 

Billy Goat

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I do it, but not thru paper. I use a 5 spot at 20/25 and shoot/rotate til the bareshafts are hitting the x ring. Once an arrow hits x 3 times I consider it good, then Fletch.

Interested to hear the process everyone else is using.

I use to index on a spine tester but found I still would nock tune a few.
 

Kularrow

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It’s not necessary for 40 and closer in my opinion. Bareshaft and nock tuning will increase broadhead flight at longer distance.
 

Zac

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I use to do it. I don't think it's necessary with Easton products. This is actually the reason I got away from the Bitz. It was almost impossible to keep your nock in the same place while fletching. You can do it with certain indexer's yet it was only possible in a 3 fletch configuration.
 

Samdemarais

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Ya I went through it after watching the Tim Gillingham tuning series through gold tip. Once I got broadheads on i still made adjustments.
 
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Jimbob

Jimbob

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Ya I went through it after watching the Tim Gillingham tuning series through gold tip. Once I got broadheads on i still made adjustments.
Did you make adjustments to your nocks? so if you have a couple of arrows that are flyers you twist the nock 90 degrees?
 

Zac

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Did you make adjustments to your nocks? so if you have a couple of arrows that are flyers you twist the nock 90 degrees?
You can do this. Helps if you number your arrows. I think simply popping a new nock on will alleviate the issue most of the time.
 

Samdemarais

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Did you make adjustments to your nocks? so if you have a couple of arrows that are flyers you twist the nock 90 degrees?
Ya you just shoot all your arrows baresahft through paper and turn the nock a little (1/8 -1/4) until you get the absolute best result. Just YouTube gold tip tuning series. This is probably the most credible resource out their for bow and arrow tuning
 
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Jimbob

Jimbob

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Ya you just shoot all your arrows baresahft through paper and turn the nock a little (1/8 -1/4) until you get the absolute best result. Just YouTube gold tip tuning series. This is probably the most credible resource out their for bow and arrow tuning
Ya I get that and I do that. I was asking about your quote about once you got broadheads on and you still made adjustments. My question was asking about the adjustments made with broadheads on.
 

406unltd

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I do it with broadheads if I get one that doesn’t want to play. Usually I only have one maybe two at the most per dozen that act up. I fletch vaps with spine sticker facing up and that makes them all the same and works good. Black eagles I do the same but with the spine and straightness stamp facing up on all when I start fletching. It’s been affective.
 

5MilesBack

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I think simply popping a new nock on will alleviate the issue most of the time.
It depends on whether the nock is the issue or the arrow is the issue. Most arrows have a stiff side to them, and getting the arrows to all react the same way coming out of the bow can increase accuracy from arrow to arrow. Turning the arrows and shooting them is an easy way to see how they are reacting, whether in paper or down range in the target. Consistency is the key to any good setup.
 

Samdemarais

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Ya I get that and I do that. I was asking about your quote about once you got broadheads on and you still made adjustments. My question was asking about the adjustments made with broadheads on.
Ya, even though I got perfect bullet holes with every bare shaft I would still find and arrow or two out of the group that would be out of the group with broadheads and would come back in by indexing the nock when shooting broadheads.
 

Billy Goat

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I use to do it. I don't think it's necessary with Easton products. This is actually the reason I got away from the Bitz. It was almost impossible to keep your nock in the same place while fletching. You can do it with certain indexer's yet it was only possible in a 3 fletch configuration.


I might be missing something but I don't understand whats hard about the bitz and shaft alignment? I shoot cock vane up, so I just start there, but once I get a mark where I want to start my fletching, I'll rotate my nock to start in the correct position, then Fletch. Rotate my nock back to where it needs to be after. Normally it's just straight up, but sometimes it's somewhere else.
 

Billy Goat

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Ya, even though I got perfect bullet holes with every bare shaft I would still find and arrow or two out of the group that would be out of the group with broadheads and would come back in by indexing the nock when shooting broadheads.


Is that after trying a different broadhead?

I find it's more often the head then nock position, assuming I previously nock tuned.
 

Samdemarais

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Hmm no I guess I’m usually just using the same broadhead for tuning. Once I have things dialed then I will screw on each broadhead and just verify they hit for sure. I just can’t be at ease if I don’t know for sure that exact arrow and broadhead combination hits true.
 

Samdemarais

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Is that after trying a different broadhead?

I find it's more often the head then nock position, assuming I previously nock tuned.
I will have to try that and see if it makes a difference. Just got a new string and this year I think I’m just going to rough paper tune, torque tune, then broadhead tune and skip all the bare shaft stuff.
 

Billy Goat

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Hmm no I guess I’m usually just using the same broadhead for tuning. Once I have things dialed then I will screw on each broadhead and just verify they hit for sure. I just can’t be at ease if I don’t know for sure that exact arrow and broadhead combination hits true.


I'm not certain which way it would be in your situation. I don't really ever use paper. I prefer to just use bareshafts at distance. Might be that by my nock tuning at 20-25 yards I'm tuning to a finer degree than you are shooting thru paper.

That's really how I view anything with paper. It's a starting point, doesn't begin to tell the whole story.

Don't know, lots of ways to skin a cat. As long as you are getting to the same point, don't matter if you do it at the beginning or the end.
 

Billy Goat

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I will have to try that and see if it makes a difference. Just got a new string and this year I think I’m just going to rough paper tune, torque tune, then broadhead tune and skip all the bare shaft stuff.


I just broadhead tuned instead of bareshaft a lot. Found that bareshaftstuning made my broadhead target last longer.

Again, same results in the end. The end goal of all of this is to have the broadhead hit where we want. Different roads to that goal, bit they all meet at the same point.
 

Zac

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I think the guy on this video makes a good point. However pay no attention to the rest adjustment part, he totally screws that up.
 
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