Options for tweaking my setup

bat-cave

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May 6, 2015
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Littleton, CO
I'm finally getting around to getting my new bow dialed in at some longer ranges and running into an issue. Everything seems to be setup correctly and paper tuning looks good. However now that I'm able to get dialed in at 60 yds+, I have needed to move my Sight housing far enough to my right that the riser ever so slightly (visibly not physically) touches on the edge of my sight housing. On top of it all, I'm still hitting right a longer distances. Could be hand torque, but I'm unable to diagnosis what I'm doing wrong / need to tweak. Suggestions on what to look for?

Setup:

Hoyt RX4 Ultra @ #80
Axcel Accutouch Carbon Pro Hunter (X41 housing)
Hamskea rest
GT Pierce Target (300) and SFAX has me spined out nicely.
 

OR Archer

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Feb 29, 2012
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Mesa,AZ
When tuning the bow did you use the yokes or the rest to correct for left/right tears through paper? Also did the axises on the sight get set correctly?
 
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bat-cave

bat-cave

WKR
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Littleton, CO
When tuning the bow did you use the yokes or the rest to correct for left/right tears through paper? Also did the axises on the sight get set correctly?

When I bought the bow, my local shop helped me get the initial tune done (paper tune and rough in @ 20 yards). I do know that they made 1-2 minor yoke changes, but beyond that I don't recall what exactly was done. The Axis settings all look good ... but can double check - Thanks!
 
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bat-cave

bat-cave

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What is the centershot measurement.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

I'm not sure. A quick Google search shows some debate on how to best accomplish this. Can you suggest a method you have found works? Sorry if I'm a bit clueless, trying to get better at doing my own work. Thanks!
 

jmez

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Jun 12, 2012
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Piedmont, SD
Measure from the riser to the center of the arrow when the arrow is in up position on the rest. You have to measure from the riser, not the rubber pad on the Hoyt shelf. Go in front of or just behind the rubber.
 

Ucsdryder

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Jan 24, 2015
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Slightly under spined according to SFAX


I would try a stiffer arrow and see what happens. Based on personal experience with the same setup you’re underspined. I would throw on a 100gr tip and then your bow down 10lbs and see if you get a better result. Better yet, throw a 250 spine arrow and see what happens.



Here’s my setup


Prime black 3 83.5lbs
28 3/8” draw
Gold tip kinetic 200 with 175 up front.

We have almost the same setup.


I’m a little overspined but my fixed l
Blades are flying out to 70 yards hitting with field points.
 
Joined
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Midwestern, NY
I would set your centershot to 13/16” off from the metal part of the riser to start. Only adjust left or right not more than 1/8” either way from that though. Then yoke tune from there.

also looks like your under spined like others have mentioned.

I‘ve had more consistent results bareshaft tuning than I’ve had paper tuning FWIW. If you bareshaft tune out to 30 yards then you will know everything is where it should be.
 
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bat-cave

bat-cave

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Thanks everyone. I started with 125 gr as this is what I shoot on my RX-1 (#70 limbs), but according to SFAX, I'm right in the spine sweet spot if I swap some 100gr points for the 125gr points. I will give this a try. My scale is showing that my limbs are maxed out at #78 ... but then again it's reading #2 below where I've had my RX-1 measured before as well ... so assuming it's a scale issue. Checking the centershot now.

I appreciate the insights from everyone!
 
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bat-cave

bat-cave

WKR
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Littleton, CO
I'd bump the rest over to 13/16 and then use the yokes to fix Left/Right issues.
Thanks, I will give this a try. I will also second the question from ZDR. I'm googling like a mad man to get better insight, but any tips/tricks would be appreciated.

Another question to the group as NYyotekiller suggested bareshaft tuning. I haven't done any bareshaft tuning previously. I did end up shooting off a fletching yesterday and subsequently stripped the arrow down since it will need to be re-fletched anyway. It isn't perfectly clean as I was at a public range and without acetone etc ... My bareshaft at 20 yards was consistently ~6-7" right and 4" high from fletched shafts. I realize I may not be starting from the best point given my shaft still had some glue residue on it.

Thanks!
 

stonewall

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Jul 29, 2016
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TX - Texas
can someone explain yoke tuning? Not familiar with that.
essentially, it's putting twists in the yokes to shift the string left/right for tuning by leaning cam one way or the other (to get powerstroke of string to run down center of arrow). not all bows are yoke tuneable...i shoot mathews and in that case one must shim the cams left/right
 
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jmez

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Jun 12, 2012
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The thing to keep in mind with bareshaft tuning is that it magnifies any form issues as well as tune issues. If you don't have good, repeatable form, you'll pull your hair out trying to shoot a bareshaft.

Put your rest at 13/16, set the timing and then start over. If you have never bare shafted I'd start at 10 yards.
 

Tag_Soup

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Nov 8, 2016
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Middleton, Idaho
You are probably experiencing some slight under spine, so I would start there. If you want to mostly eliminate torque you could try torque tuning. Its a little OCD for most, but you can move your rest forward or backward to have the contact point on the arrow on the same axis as the torque. I have only done this with one bow so others may find a better way to explain, but to get it set, I got a good bare shaft tune and then intentionally torqued my bow hard right and made a shot at like 15 yards. If the arrow hits right the rest needs to come forward. If it hits left the rest needs to come backward. You can also shoot two arrows, one torqued right and one left, and work to make the gap between them smaller. I was able to get it to where I could only torque my arrows off an inch or so at 20 yards when trying really hard. That bow has been my sweetest shooting bow ever since doing it.
 
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