Paper tune issue

[Duuane]

Greetings all: In February I replaced an old drop away rest with a Hamskea Hybred Hunter limb activated drop away rest. When I installed it, I tuned the bow to the arrows that I was using but planned to replace. It was pretty darn good. I now have my new arrows, and I can't get rid of a nock right paper tear. It's not high or low, it's just a right tear. I have moved the rest as far to the left as it will allow, and I still have the right tear. It's probably an inch to inch and a half from tip entry to nock entry, it was much worse until I moved the rest all the way to the left. My bow is an Elite Answer at 60#, my draw length is 27" and my arrows are Easton Axis 5mm 340 spine, 27" carbon to carbon, 3 fletch, x nock, 50 grain brass insert, and 125 tip. I can see the nock right flight when I shoot. I'm sure that the flight can be better, but I don't know to make it happen with what I have. I know that form can cause the problem, but I don't think my form is poor on every shot. Advice and thoughts would be awesome. THANK YOU!!

 

[Jbxl20]

Did you try to Move your rest to the right

 

[Duuane]

Yes I did, the tear was closer to three inches at 12 feet.

 

[Somthingoriginal]

And you have no problem when shooting your old arrows?

 

[10ringer]

Right tear could be a stiff spine. What was your previous arrow setup that was in tune?
Try shooting multiple distances through paper and see if you have different results. 5-10 feet will be a good indicator of grip and bow tune. 15-20 feet will tell you more about your arrow spine.


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[Duuane]

Actually, I didn't try my old arrows after my rest adjustments for the new arrows, I will. the new arrows are 80 grams heavier than the old ones. I wasn't trying to achieve anything in particular going to the heavier set up, I just wanted to go with a heavier arrow.

 

[Duuane]

At 14 yards (basement limits) the paper hole was good, I got good impact at 20 and 40 yards outside. I'd shoot at a deer and be confident of my hit at those distances, but I think the arrow can start out with better flight if I work at it. I once read where someone wrote, "If you think good enough is good enough, it probably isn't"

 

[TX_Diver]

Playing with different point weights is an easy way to check spine (assuming it's close). Lancaster archery also sells single shafts.

 

[sndmn11]

What were the specs of the old arrow? Can you put the rest back to where it was and shoot the old arrows well?

 

[OR Archer]

You will probably have to shim your cams to the right. And possibly adjust the cable rod to get a good tune with the new arrows

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I'm not very familiar with an Elite Answer, but if the cams can be shimmed, shift them to the right or if the cable rod can be rotated, adjust it so it's putting more pressure on the cables pulling them away from the arrow.

Other thoughts:

• I don't believe the conventional wisdom of "nock right tear = arrow is too stiff, nock left tear = arrow is too weak" (for a right-handed shooter) is really relevant to a compound bow shot with a mechanical release, but the spine charts/software would say your 340's are on the stiff side. Screw on a heavier field point if you want to test how weakening the spine might affect your paper tune.
• For a right-handed shooter (assuming that's what you are), I would expect cable contact to cause a nock left tear, but it never hurts to make sure your vanes aren't hitting anything. Shoot a bareshaft through paper and see if you get the same tear or put a tattletale substance on your vanes and check for marks on the cables, rest, etc.
• A nock right tear can be a sign of draw length being too short (again for a righty). If you think this is a possibility, you could move your draw stops further out or try shooting a release with a longer neck to slightly increase your effective draw length.

 

[Duuane]

I spent a fair amount of time being sure I picked the right spine for my new arrows, I think I got it right. I did the spray foot powder thing on 4 different arrows and there was no clearance issues with any of therm. My old arrows are carbon express red 400's, 26.75" with 100 grain tips. I don't have the ability to shim cams or press the bow for other similar adjustments.

 

[Somthingoriginal]

I would go back to spec center shot and shoot your old arrows.

If no problem. Then you know you need to look at the new arrows. Try a bare shaft, spin your arrow, try different arrow, check nock fit, nock tune, clearance...

If same then look at your rest, cam lean, grip etc

 

[5MilesBack]

I spent a fair amount of time being sure I picked the right spine for my new arrows, I think I got it right.

Just as a comparison, on my 60lb bow set at 62lbs, with 30" arrows, and 32 1/2" draw.......340's tune up perfectly through paper, bare shaft, and BH tuning. I have no doubt that your arrows are STIFF. But.......that still doesn't mean that you can't get the bow closely tuned to them. It just won't be as forgiving.

 

[Duuane]

I originally planned for a 28" carbon to carbon arrow so the broadhead would be farther from the riser, I didn't re-check after deciding on the 27" I'll shoot the old setup today and see what I get.

 

[Niceandkozy8]

I am no archery expert but I’ve had problems tuning my prime centergy before. I felt very confident that my arrows were not the problem but couldn’t get a nice clean bullet hole. I watched a video that Elkshape and Josh Jones at Spokane valley archery posted and he spoke specifically about grip position. Once I adopted his grip placement it highlighted my issue as being purely form. I put everything back to spec, followed his grip mechanics and boom, perfect bullet hole. I will dig up the video and post the link. I am not saying this will solve all of your problems but I was chasing the wrong issue and when I discovered this it all made sense.


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[Niceandkozy8]

Here is the video. I put a stick blue hot melt in my fingers so I didn’t apply any torque to the front on the bow handle and BAM it’s like the light bulb went off. Bullet holes ever since. It was wild how instant the fix was for me.

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[Duuane]

I like the video. I try to have consistent form, but I'm sure I fail more than I should. I have a hot glue stick I can try this with. The string on my bow isn't center on the limbs and riser, the way the cams are designed the string is left of limb and riser center.

 

[Duuane]

I went to a local archery shop today looking for guidance, problem detected and solved. The rest need to go to the right a little, actually where it started, and the owner saw two form issues. My grip was off a little, but my draw arm was winged out away from proper alignment. When I brought my elbow bake in line with the string and arrow, bullet holes. Now it's my job to keep that proper form going until it's an unconscious habit. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[bow-hunt]

Greetings all: In February I replaced an old drop away rest with a Hamskea Hybred Hunter limb activated drop away rest. When I installed it, I tuned the bow to the arrows that I was using but planned to replace. It was pretty darn good. I now have my new arrows, and I can't get rid of a nock right paper tear. It's not high or low, it's just a right tear. I have moved the rest as far to the left as it will allow, and I still have the right tear. It's probably an inch to inch and a half from tip entry to nock entry, it was much worse until I moved the rest all the way to the left. My bow is an Elite Answer at 60#, my draw length is 27" and my arrows are Easton Axis 5mm 340 spine, 27" carbon to carbon, 3 fletch, x nock, 50 grain brass insert, and 125 tip. I can see the nock right flight when I shoot. I'm sure that the flight can be better, but I don't know to make it happen with what I have. I know that form can cause the problem, but I don't think my form is poor on every shot. Advice and thoughts would be awesome. THANK YOU!!

Make sure you don't have any clearance issues. I use spray foot powder on my arrows/fletchings. It'll show you if there is any contact.