Paper tuning/center shot/Fast Eddie XL maxed out

I hunt_dm3

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I upgraded to a Mathews Atlas and a Fast Eddie XL sight this year and I am having issues getting it paper tuned without maxing my windage out to the left.

I paper tuned it yesterday to shoot bullet holes, but it moved my center shot out to 15/16. Which maxes my windage out and I am still 4 inches to the left at 30 yards. I had to flip the bracket on the sight housing and add just to get my windage correct prior to moving my center shot.

With my center shot at 13/16, I am getting a right tear, is there something I can adjust without moving my rest to correct the tear on a Mathews bow?

I’ve read on a few forums that people have issues with Mathews bows and Spot Hogg sights maxing out on windage, does anyone know of how to correct this issue?
 

Zac

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Your stiff. You need to adjust one of your top hats so that both of your cams are favoring the right side of the bow. If that doesn't work you can get a tophat kit from Lancaster and use some of the more agressive tophats. You could also increase your point weight. There is no problem that exists with Spot Hogg and Mathews.
 

gelton

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What Zack said, many people shooting Mathews, including myself don't touch the rest except for extremely minor adjustments and use tophats. They will get you very close to fully tuned.

I also didn't use paper I just used bare shafts but probably still have a few very minor adjustments when I start broadhead tuning this week.
 
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I hunt_dm3

I hunt_dm3

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I’ve been reading about top hats, guess I’ll have to take it to the shop and see if they will adjust it for me. Thanks for the info.
 

Samdemarais

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Your stiff. You need to adjust one of your top hats so that both of your cams are favoring the right side of the bow. If that doesn't work you can get a tophat kit from Lancaster and use some of the more agressive tophats. You could also increase your point weight. There is no problem that exists with Spot Hogg and Mathews.
So why not just move back to 13/16 and shoot a properly spined arrow? Shouldn’t shimming cams be the last resort?
 

Zac

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So why not just move back to 13/16 and shoot a properly spined arrow? Shouldn’t shimming cams be the last resort?
You could be right. That bow has a pretty crazy brace and low IBO. You can usually get anything to fly perfectly out of a Mathews anyway. He would just have to invest in new arrows and components after already taking the plunge with a new bow and sight.
 

OR Archer

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So why not just move back to 13/16 and shoot a properly spined arrow? Shouldn’t shimming cams be the last resort?
There’s nothing in his post to even suggest he’s not shooting the proper spines arrow. Just because it’s tearing right doesn’t mean it’s automatically overspined. Moving the top hats is the right move when tuning any of the new Mathews. Those bows when shimmed properly will shoot a very wide variety of spines.
And to answer the OPs last question the answer is No. There’s zero downside to swapping top hats.
 
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I hunt_dm3

I hunt_dm3

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I’m right in the middle according to spine charts, Gold Tip Pierce Platinums 30 5/8” shafts, I chose 100 grain tip and went with 250 spine. Tested with 125 gr tip and added another 20 gr fact weight and it still has a small nock right tear. I may be over spined but not by much.

I still find it odd I have to flip the bracket and add a spacer with my center shot at 13/16. My buddy with a Mathews and Spot Hogg had to do the same.
 

Samdemarais

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You could be right. That bow has a pretty crazy brace and low IBO. You can usually get anything to fly perfectly out of a Mathews anyway. He would just have to invest in new arrows and components after already taking the plunge with a new bow and sight.
I just think it seems odd that so many people are messing with the tops hats and moving cams on Mathews bows. I don’t own one and have no experience, I’m just curious.
 

OR Archer

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I just think it seems odd that so many people are messing with the tops hats and moving cams on Mathews bows. I don’t own one and have no experience, I’m just curious.
Being that there are no yokes shimming cams on a binary system is your only option to adjust for left/right issues regardless of the spine of the arrow. It’s simply how you adjust the bow. Nothing out of the ordinary there.
 

Samdemarais

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Being that there are no yokes shimming cams on a binary system is your only option to adjust for left/right issues regardless of the spine of the arrow. It’s simply how you adjust the bow. Nothing out of the ordinary there.
Ya that makes sense , in general do you tune the bow to the arrow or arrow to the bow?
 

OR Archer

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Ya that makes sense , in general do you tune the bow to the arrow or arrow to the bow?
Depends. If I’m setting someone up from scratch I’ll pick the proper spine etc. If someone is switching bows and wants to keep using their arrows from the previous setup, 9 times out of 10 I can tune the bow to them.
 

Brendan

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I'm with @OR Archer - nothing to say he's stiff or weak. It's more likely than not a bow setup/tune issue and not an arrow spine issue.

With my mathews adjusting top hats is the absolute first thing I do after setting the bow to spec and the rest down the middle.

After picking an arrow spine that's appropriate and an arrow that meets my weight goals, tune the bow to the arrow not the other way around.
 

Marble

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As far as the Spot Hogg issue, after the bow is tuned you should be fine. If not, learn how to set the wight housing properly and you'll be good. There are a lot of ways to make the sight housing move left or right.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 
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I hunt_dm3

I hunt_dm3

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Update, took the bow into the shop, swapped the top hats from the bottom to the top and it is shooting great. Sight is very close to maxing out but has enough.
 
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corey006

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I quit "paper tuning" years ago.

Just bareshaft tune out to 20 yards.

Broadhead fine tune to finish.
 
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