Paper Tuning - Has me puzzled…

[doncarpenter]

This guy on ArcheryTalk sells shim kits that are exactly what you need. I ordered a mini tuner kit a couple years ago and have been good ever since. I switched out the stock shims on my Ventum 33 when I had it because it gave me more options than the standard gray and black shims for the HBX cams.

Read through the thread and it will tell you how to order. He ships fast too.

New Shim Kits Available

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New Shim Kits Available

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[RockinRam96]

Thanks guys.

Wondering if this shim kit from Lancaster Archery will do the job?

Small Archery Shim Kit

212 piece shim kit for just about any bow repairIncluding: Cam alignment Replacing cams and bushings Replacing worn out shims Works great on all types of bows (compound, recurve, and crossbows) Shims are designed for 3/16" diameter axles Kit Includes: 25 - .010 25 - .020 25 - .032 25...

www.lancasterarchery.com

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[livingandlearning]

This guy on ArcheryTalk sells shim kits that are exactly what you need. I ordered a mini tuner kit a couple years ago and have been good ever since. I switched out the stock shims on my Ventum 33 when I had it because it gave me more options than the standard gray and black shims for the HBX cams.

Read through the thread and it will tell you how to order. He ships fast too.

New Shim Kits Available

r.tapatalk.com

New Shim Kits Available

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

I’ll second the mini tuner kit. Worked great for me and he was good to deal with.

 

[JeffRaines]

Be careful some of the Hoyts require a special limb adapter for the press, because of their past parallel limb shape...and the adapters are expensive like $200. I know EZ Press required them for my Hoyt Defiant 30, but not many of my other bows..so do your research carefully.

The new hoyts don’t require the adapter. I pressed my ventum to change strings and move shims with the stock fingers.

 

[Bwana]

The new hoyts don’t require the adapter. I pressed my ventum to change strings and move shims with the stock fingers.

I didn't know that, thank God because they were a foolish idea to begin with.

 

[Foggy Mountain]

The very first thing you need is decent form. Without it you’ll never get clean holes. You must be adjusted properly as well but form must be correct

 

[RockinRam96]

Where is this 13/16” arrow rest position measured from many have mentioned? I’m guessing riser to center of the rest?


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[Billy Goat]

Where is this 13/16” arrow rest position measured from many have mentioned? I’m guessing riser to center of the rest?


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Measure from the inside of your riser to the center of your arrow.

 

[RockinRam96]

Measure from the inside of your riser to the center of your arrow.

Got it. Thanks!


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[Holocene]

Lots of good thoughts here guys, but the OP is going to be chasing his tail to kingdom come without some method.

Bow tuning in 2021 is no longer black magic, but a standard, systematic process. Sure, some magic can come at the end, but these bows are so dialed and information so readily-available that random trial and error ends up being an expensive and time-consuming journey.

At a high level, agree with the general advice here to:

• Put rest so that center of arrow is exactly 13/16" from riser. This is a starting place.
• Build a set of arrows that match what poundage and length you want.
• Paper tune and group tune using the cams to get a clean bullet hole with all your arrows. Ask your shop or a buddy to help with this process, even if the shop charges a fee. If your shop will not take the time to get your bow actually tuned, find another shop.

Super good online learning available here:
1. Buy, watch, and follow advice in Jesse Broadwater's Vimeo course
2. Watch Tim Gillingham's 11-part tuning series on Youtube
3. Bow Bible app available on iPhone

 

[aron]

@RockinRam96 Are there any archery ranges near you? The range by me has a bow press that is available to use and could be an option versus having to purchase one. Lead times for presses right now may not be in your favor. I bought one in the spring and it was a 4 wk wait.

Have you made any adjustments to your bow or form since your initial post?

 

[RockinRam96]

@RockinRam96 Are there any archery ranges near you? The range by me has a bow press that is available to use and could be an option versus having to purchase one. Lead times for presses right now may not be in your favor. I bought one in the spring and it was a 4 wk wait.

Have you made any adjustments to your bow or form since your initial post?

I don’t know if any ranges close to me that aren’t archery shops as well. Ha ha I guess I could search around to other shops.

I called Lancaster Archery, they said Last Chance is about 3 weeks out. With won’t effect me that much as our white tail season doesn’t start until 10/1.

I did set the rest back to Hoyt recommend spacing. Threw it way off.

Not sure what changes to form I need to make. But I have focused on being consistent with my form. Was stacking arrows and bare shafts prior to rest adjustment. Can’t stack them in a 4 inch circle at 30 yards after the rest adjustment.

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[aron]

I don’t know if any ranges close to me that aren’t archery shops as well. Ha ha I guess I could search around to other shops.

I called Lancaster Archery, they said Last Chance is about 3 weeks out. With won’t effect me that much as our white tail season doesn’t start until 10/1.

I did set the rest back to Hoyt recommend spacing. Threw it way off.

Not sure what changes to form I need to make. But I have focused on being consistent with my form. Was stacking arrows and bare shafts prior to rest adjustment. Can’t stack them in a 4 inch circle at 30 yards after the rest adjustment.

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Does your current shop charge you for swapping shims, correcting timing, etc.? If it is free, I would still bring it to them and have them do some work now that your center shot windage is close to spec. It will get you closer to in tune then where you are now, even if it isn't perfect. Have them check draw weight, cam timing, and draw length along with shimming cams if required.

When setting your center shot, did you measure 13/16" from inside of riser to the center of the arrow shaft? It is always nice to verify with an arrow nocked and rest up and then a second arrow against the riser and making sure both arrows are running parallel to each other.

 

[RockinRam96]

I could go back and ask if they can do that. But when I called and ask to get help with tuning they said I could drop it off and they would tune. I ask if I should be the one shooting through paper. There response was, “No, not really.” So I said, ok. Now looking for a different option.


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[Kimi]

The new hoyts don’t require the adapter. I pressed my ventum to change strings and move shims with the stock fingers.

So with the Ventum 33, is it actually preferable to use the EZ Press's with or without the ultra lock adapters/fingers? No issues keeping the Ventum safely pressed with the default fingers?

I was just about to order an EZ Green with the ultra locks, but seems that would've been an error.

 

[JeffRaines]

So with the Ventum 33, is it actually preferable to use the EZ Press's with or without the ultra lock adapters/fingers? No issues keeping the Ventum safely pressed with the default fingers?

I was just about to order an EZ Green with the ultra locks, but seems that would've been an error.

Like I said, I had no issues through pressing it multiple times to replace the strings, move shims and general tuning - at no point did I feel like it was going to squirt out.

 

[RockinRam96]

Ordered an LCA EZ Green power press and starter package about 6 weeks ago.
Press came in the mail last Friday. Trying to figure out where to put it and what sort of stand/ setup to make.

I’ve seen guys mount them to tool boxes, but with limited spaces I was thinking about mounting it to a stand with a swivel top to be able to work with the press and the vise.

Cutting it close to the season. Season starts here on NY on Friday. I may only get some basic tuning in before the season. Then afterwards really try to figure this all out.


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[Blktailhtr]

Set everything back to the beginning and play around with the grip and see what happens.

if you want something cheap and portable for the press you can get a little craftsman folding work bench on amazon for about $40

 

[RockinRam96]

Set everything back to the beginning and play around with the grip and see what happens.

if you want something cheap and portable for the press you can get a little craftsman folding work bench on amazon for about $40

Curious to know what you mean by playing with the grip?

I have been shooting a lot since discovering the cams need to be shimmed. Field points grouping is pretty good out to 50 yards (3” groups at 50 yards). Broad head is impacting a little low and to the right of field point groups. I believe this means the rest needs to be moved to the right (or cams shimmed left) and up. However, my rest is already moved toward the rise more than it should. Centerline of the arrow is about 5/8” from the riser at the Berger hole. Hoyts owners manual says 13/16”. LCA forgot to include the basic parts kit with my order. So waiting for that to come in before I do much pressing.

Broad heads aren’t impacting that far off, just not matching the field points. They’re impacting about 3” to the right and about 2” low at 50 yards. This is very consistent and repeatable from 20-50 yards. And obviously the separation is greater with distance. Thinking I’ll get through opening weekend like this but then take next week, if the parts kit comes in, and do some fine tuning.


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[Blktailhtr]

just a slight change in your grip, how the bow sits in your hand and induces torque, can really affect the arrow flight. If you shim and you still have the same issue its how you are gripping the bow and not the bow itself. I can change my grip just a bit and go from a bullet hole to 1"+ tears in paper and broadheads apart from field points.