Peep Hell

wildernessmaster

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See other posts but took a Mission Ballistic 2.0 down and restrung/recabled it (cable yoke fraying). When I went to put my peep back in, bow was it hell to get right. I finally have it set and tied, but it is still turned slightly. A few questions...

1. What is the best way to get a peep in properly and quickly? Draw and check the height, press, rinse and repeat. With the peep twisted, its really hard to be sure you are getting that right. Is there a better way to do this?

2. After tying the peep (just top and bottom for now), the twist got better and the peep close to right. But if I tie it then I can't move it.

3. Peep at right height and tied in, its still about 1/8 off. I am going to shoot it a bit and see where it is. How do you get your peep set perfect with no twisting? Any secret mojo I am missing...
 

rsiwuda

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I work at a pro shop and let me tell you it's extremely difficult to get it just right there are alot of factors. Depending on the string quality and where its sitting in the string sometimes you have to just live with it. You can press the bow and put a 1/2 twist in the string at a time to get it as close as possible. But it might still be off. The only other option is moving your d loop so it pulls the peep straight. You'll have to twist it in a circle and draw until it pulls straight.
 

wayoh22

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Jul 22, 2018
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If they are new strings, they'll need to settle in as well. Give it some time and shoot to break them in.
 

5MilesBack

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I always shoot the strings in even on quality string sets.....20+ shots. Then I check my old marks and measurements to make sure the cams are set right, and reset them if needed and then shoot some more. Recheck, and then I do a little BS tuning at 20 yards and get that set. And then once that's all set, THEN I put the peep in and tie it in. Then I finish with BH tuning at 60 yards. Very rarely will the peep be off at that point, and will stay put normally for the life of that string until something changes with it. Then it's time for a new string set.
 
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Hoot

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I measure my peep height and set it accordingly. I do this on the draw board and measure vertically from the center of the peep to the center of the shaft, it is always the same that way, regardless of string angle, as long as I anchor in the same spot. I will tie it in temporarily and then shoot my strings in. Once my strings are settled and I get everything shooting how I want it, I will re-measure and tie it in permanently. I serve my peeps in via this method (https://www.hamskeaarchery.com/how-to-tie-in-your-peep/).

as far as peep rotation goes, I'll twist from below the peep if I can get away with it, otherwise I will do what billy goat suggests above, or one other method that involves moving a strand of the string from one side to the other, but that's my last resort.
 

wapitibob

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It's not too hard; use a press, insert peep, remove from press and draw back, adjust to proper position, and tie it in. Turn string either top or bottom to get it lined up. You'll need to shoot a few shots to get the twist spread out over the length of the string and to settle. It should be straight back at brace and straight back at full draw. If it isn't, repeat. If it won't come in, the guy built it with the incorrect tensions. Even my factory Bowtech string is lined up thru the entire draw cycle.
Despite what you read on internet forums when asking about strings, there are very few good string builders. Every joker with $1000 and some free time buys gear from Butch Baker, joins a string maker facebook page, and calls himself a custom string maker. There's more to good strings than just twist rates; most guys wrap end and center servings tight as they can because they think "no separation" is the marker of an ideal harness.
 

Johnboy

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It's a real pain in the tail, but you can also shuffle strands between the two bundles that constitute the string. This will incrementally rotate the peep relative to the string. Fair warning.. it doesn't always exactly obey the expected result, hence, it can be a hassle. But once it's set, it's satisfying.
 

Zac

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Johnboy

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I'm intrigued. Might have to try this when I swap out strings (which I'll have to do after this season). Thanks for the link.
 
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Norm555

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Aug 27, 2017
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I started using the total peep this year and honestly it's a game changer. To me it is about the best $20 you can spend on your archery set-up.
 
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Beendare

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I make my own strings (using factory lengths)....and pre stretch with a ratchet strap....its pretty low tech.....but it works...my strings don't move once shot in even though I use less strands [452 for compound and BCYX for my recurves] I use 12 strands in my recurve and it makes for a quiet string though I have to back the center serving for good nok fit....can't remember the strands on my Compound.

Once I shoot in the new string and cables (50 shots or so) I draw board my cams and then tune my bow.

If my peep is off I take 1/2 twist out of the top cam and add 1/2 to the bottom cam- or vice versa. Once aligned, get you loop aligned and tight- done deal.

It sometimes takes a few tries in and out of the press to get the peep perfect...but once it is- it doesn't move.
 
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Zac

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I make my own strings (using factory lengths)....and pre stretch with a ratchet strap....its pretty low tech.....but it works...my strings don't move once shot in even though I use less strands [452 for compound and BCYX for my recurves] I use 12 strands in my recurve and it makes for a quiet string though I have to back the center serving for good nok fit....can't remember the strands on my Compound.

Once I shoot in the new string and cables (50 shots or so) I draw board my cams and then tune my bow.

If my peep is off I take 1/2 twist out of the top cam and add 1/2 to the bottom cam- or vice versa. Once aligned, get you loop aligned and tight- done deal.

It sometimes takes a few tries in and out of the press to get the peep perfect...but once it is- it doesn't move.
That's a good point, the way to not experience stretch is to go straight from the string jig to the bow.
 

Zac

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You can turn your loop in small increments and then use the draw board to really study the symmetry. Once it's perfect on the board apply some super glue in-between the seams of your loop. If your using a torqueless loop you can tie it in with dental floss.
 

Beendare

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The floss is always a good idea so that the loop doesn't torque your noks.

I used to use crazy glue on my loop but now I just get it tight. I like the adjustability as if in a year down the road I want to make adjustments, or re- serve my center serving- its easy.
 

jmez

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Careful using super glue in and around your loops. One of my hunting partners used to do this. Super glue dries very hard and can have sharp edges. He ended up with the super glue cutting the string under the serving beneath a loop. String broke on him.
 
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Zac

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Careful using super glue in and around your loops. One of my hunting partners used to do this. Super glue dries very hard and can have sharp edges. He ended up with the super glue cutting the string under the serving beneath a loop. String broke on him.
This is true, I'm reserving all the time anyway so when it's time to for the loop to go I usually just reserve.
 
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