Prefit Barrel experience.

[Pro953]

I have a handful of Tikka’s in the safe. I currently have a smith working on a build and when that is done I am considering re-barreling my win-mag. I can certainly sent it out to the gunsmith for a work up. Problem is, I like to tinker, work on projects and the satisfaction of doing things myself.

I am wondering if anyone here has ever gone down the prefit road with a Tikka. I have heard the barrels are difficult to remove, outside of that. What are the great risks/challenges. I do not have access to a machine shop so outside of some basic manual adjustment and fine tuning of the fit barrel channel etc... it would need to be somewhat plug and play.

For those that have done the work, was it worth it or do you regret not just sending it out. Seems like fun but I just want to have an idea if it’s worth the effort.

Thanks,
Phil


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[fightthenoise]

I rebarreled one. Only bad part is now I want to rebarrel all of them. I see no need to get a smith involved.

 

[Archery Bank]

I just finished my pre fit from Proof Research. I started with a new Tikka in 7 mag. I purchased a 22" Sendero contour carbon wrapped barrel in 6.5 prc, Viper barrel vise, internal action wrench, external action wrench and go/no go gauges. Removing the barrel wasn't too hard, I pre soaked the tenon with PB blaster for two days. I placed the new barrel on with the internal wrench and torque to 65 ft lbs. I confirmed headspace, it was spot on. I am still waiting on my Mesa Precision stock so I reamed out the plastic stock. I loaded 55 gr of Retumbo with Hornady ELDM 140s. I only have twelve rounds down the barrel so far. It looks promising. Shooting off the ground with a bipod and rear bag, I shot a very acceptable group of less than moa at over 200 yds.

Was it worth it? From a purely monetary view, of course not. But it's our hobby. I now have the tools to change out more rifles in the future. It was fun.

 

[CApighunter]

No issue with mine, went from a 300 win factory barrel to a 270wsm proof. Install was easy and it headspaced perfectly.

 

[Pro953]

Great. Thanks everyone! Looks like I have an excuse to start shopping for some new tools!


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[wyosam]

Get a stout barrel vice, inside (to install new) and outside (to remove original) action wrench. Strip it down to barreled action and put it in the freezer for a couple hours after you’ve got all your tools ready to go. Pull it out of the freezer, get it in the vice, warm up the front of the action with a propane torch for ~60 seconds. Get the action wrench on quickly, put pressure on it and give it a couple taps with a hammer. It should pop loose fairly easily.

If you move through those fairly quickly, you’ll have a cold barrel and a warm action. That gives the bond a little relief to come loose.


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[sndmn11]

I sent you a PM about your barrels, I also have a wheeler no1 external action wrench for removing your factory barrels like @wyosam suggested above.

 

[CApighunter]

Great. Thanks everyone! Looks like I have an excuse to start shopping for some new tools!


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I see you’re in California, if you’re in the sonoma county area I’d be happy to help you out or loan you tools.

 

[hereinaz]

Easy if you are DIY and can follow directions. Factory barrel removal is hardest part.

Best trick is a HEAVY chunk of steel. My short handle sledge hammer gets the call to smack the action wrench handle, but if it doesn't break free after a couple whacks, I go get a bigger chunk of steel. A couple Savages, I just dremeled the barrel nut almost all the way through and got a monkey wrench. Paying a smith to remove it in his press is often worth it if you get stuck. Don't ruin the rifle.

Rosin on a thin strip of veg tan leather is what I clamp barrels with.

Don't over tighten the action wrench, it can squeeze the action around the barrel making it even harder to remove. Once, I had it so tight the barrel was hard to twist out. I thought it was the threads. But, when I went to reassemble, it spun in easy because the action wrench wasn't on.

For carbon barrels, only clamp steel in the barrel vise to prevent damage