Prime Centergy fit issues

[2Stamp]

That loop is a mile long. Shorten that thing up and it should help.

^^^^Agreed with OR Archer. I try to keep mine no longer than 3/4". Seems to work well for me at that length.

 

[Boxerboxer]

^^^^Agreed with OR Archer. I try to keep mine no longer than 3/4". Seems to work well for me at that length.

Yeah that was the intention, but it's hard to gauge exactly how much it will stretch when you've done it literally twice I'll fix it tonight.

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[Hoot]

I concur with OR, shorten d loop, set peep height by closed eye method and you’ll be in much better shape!

 

[Boxerboxer]

Shortened my D-loop to .75" from 1" and took video of me drawing from side and rear:

Side:

Rear:

I'm closer to touching now but still not quite there. Maybe at 33.5" axle to axle and 29.25" draw I'm just not getting the right string angle to touch my nose to string. I can try longer DL but this feels right.

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[Billy Goat]

Still can't get a good view of your bow arm. Looks like your back elbow is positioned correctly or at least close to it.

Don't know anything about the prime bows but can you remove the grip to move your hand forward? Might be easier than making changes with your loop or draw length. Pop the handle off and gain another 3/8-5/8" of draw temporarily to try. See how that feels.

 

[wapitibob]

Draw length is fine. Your nose will never touch the string unless you lengthen the draw and make it too long, or drop your head; that's the problem with short bows and a decent draw length.
Both hands should be above your shoulders when you draw; makes it a whole lot easier to drop in and lock up.

 

[Boxerboxer]

Still can't get a good view of your bow arm. Looks like your back elbow is positioned correctly or at least close to it.

Don't know anything about the prime bows but can you remove the grip to move your hand forward? Might be easier than making changes with your loop or draw length. Pop the handle off and gain another 3/8-5/8" of draw temporarily to try. See how that feels.

Grip is already bare. Side plates are flush with the aluminum, so nothing doing there.

What view do you want to see, I'll make it happen.

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[Billy Goat]

Try an elevated view.

This is the easiest image I could find in a quick search to show what I'm saying. Need your elbow and wrist to be in line with the arrow. Are you having any issue with string contact on your forearm?

 

[Boxerboxer]

Try an elevated view. View attachment 96761

This is the easiest image I could find in a quick search to show what I'm saying. Need your elbow and wrist to be in line with the arrow. Are you having any issue with string contact on your forearm?

Ok, got it.

No issues with forearm contact ever since I got this bow.

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[nphunter]

You should essentially be able to draw the bow back with your eyes closed. Slightly move your hand over to your face to get your anchor and then open your eyes and you should be able to see through the peep. You should never be bobbing your head around trying to get proper alignment. I actually personally draw back to anchor once I'm at anchor I slightly turn my head toward the right until the tip of my nose barely touches the string, this gives me two reference points and when I open my eyes I have perfect peep acquisition.

Sometimes you may have to slightly tip your head due to short ATA and steep string angles with longer draw lengths. I will try uploading a video of my son to give you an idea what I'm talking about.

 

[Samdemarais]

I think if you shorten the d loop and put a little give in that front elbow you should be really close. You can move the draw stops slightly but make sure you aren’t hitting the over draw stops.

 

[Boxerboxer]

I think if you shorten the d loop and put a little give in that front elbow you should be really close. You can move the draw stops slightly but make sure you aren’t hitting the over draw stops.

Appreciate the tip, but I sold this bow last year, struggle stick only now

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